The walk starts in Mantet, a tiny village near the Spanish border.
From Perpignan, take the N116 towards Prades and Font Romeu. On leaving Villefranche-de-Conflent, a medieval village, turn left towards Py and Mantet. It is a narrow, winding mountain road. After passing through several villages, head down to Mantet, on the other side of the pass of the same name.
Mantet is a cul-de-sac. There is no public transport service to the village. Cars are not permitted in the village. You must park in a small car park before the entrance. Parking spaces are limited. It is best to arrive early in the morning.
(S) Follow the main street.
(1) Turn left onto a sloping cobbled street. Follow the path and cross the submersible bridge. The red-and-white marked trail ofthe GR®10,GR®36and GRT76 climbs through pastures that are more or less well-maintained. You’ll reach a three-way junction at the 1962-metre mark.
(2) Head left towards the Refuge de l’Alemany via the GRT76. The return journey the following day will be via the path on the right. Reach the refuge.
(3) Free access. Water source nearby. Dry toilets are located behind the hut. Continue along the clearly marked path. The climb is fairly gentle, but becomes steeper as you approach the pass.
(4) Shepherd’s hut. This is reserved for shepherds and is locked. Further up, you’ll reach a fork in the path at the ruins of the Baraque des Allemands.
(5) Continue climbing to the right along the GRT76 and, with one final effort as the path becomes steeper, reach the Porteilla de Mantet. This is the border with Spain. View of the Vallter ski resort on the Spanish side.
(6) Two possible routes:
- either to the right along the ridge path. This takes you over a series of peaks. However, there are no water sources and towards the end (Pic des Gours), the path is very steep and rocky.
- or via the ski resort. This is the route chosen, shown on the map. It allows you to top up your water supplies and encounter both people and wildlife.
(7) Refreshments and food available. Open all year round. Lots of people come here for walks or hikes. Head down towards the car parks.
(8) Take the path down the embankment. Return to the road. Pass close to the heliport.
(9) Turn right onto theGR®11towards the Refuge d’Ulldeter.
(10) A popular route with places to eat and stay overnight. Continue due west on theGR®11to reach the Coll de la Marrana.
(11) Viewpoint overlooking the next valley you’ll be climbing. You’ll come across herds of chamois here.
Carry on due west, continuing to descend along theGR®11. This will take you to the Cabane de Tirapits below the border ridge.
(12) This can be used as a shelter. Behind the hut, there is a telephone for calling the emergency services. Turn due south, continuing along theGR®11. You’ll reach the Coll de la Vaca.
(13) On the right, enjoy the view over the Carança Valley. You can see Lac Noir, the end point of this stage.
Continue along the border ridge to the Pic inférieur de la Vaca. The highest point of the walk.
(14) Continue along the border ridge to the Col de la Carança.
(15) Take the path on the right (GRT75). Walk alongside Estany Blau. No camping possible. The slopes drop straight down into the lake. The path is clearly marked. Continue due south and reach the other lake.
(E) Estany Negre: end of the stage. There is a flat area to the left of the lake. Pitch your tent within the small circle of stones.
Suitable only for experienced walkers. However, this stage can be split: spend the night at the Ulldeter mountain hut.