Cosprons, Banyuls and Paulilles from Cap Béar

From Perpignan, take the D914 to Port-Vendres. Bypass the town on the D86b. At the end, at the roundabout, continue on the Route de la Jetée, then quickly turn right onto the Route du Cap Béar, which runs along the sea to Cap Béar (caution: the road is narrow and is a dead end). The car park before the lighthouse offers parking without too much trouble if you arrive early. From here, the view is quite impressive.

Yellow signposts

(S/E) From the car park, retrace your steps for about 100 metres and take the path on the right, which goes around the semaphore on the right and then returns to the tarmac road.

(1) Cross the road and continue on the marked trail towards the west, which climbs up the hillside overlooking the road.

(2) At the crossroads of four paths, turn right, still parallel to the road below, to return to it further on. Follow it for 50 m to the left. Then descend the path that leads towards the sea. You will arrive at a tarmac road at the water's edge.

(3) Continue along the road on the left and, before the tunnel closed to pedestrians, go around it by following the coastline. Pass in front of the motorhome area to reach the port. Take the pedestrian path that goes around the port area, follow the quay on the left and turn 90° to the right to reach the middle of Quai François Joly.

(4) From the port, in the middle of the quay, look for a large double staircase on the left (lift). Climb it and, at the top, continue straight ahead to find a gentle staircase with long steps. Still following the yellow signs, reach the SNCF train station and walk along it on the right to find a tunnel that passes under the railway line.

(5) Go through the tunnel and continue on the left along the path that leads to the roundabout on the access road to Port-Vendres. Please note: there are no pedestrian crossings to go around this roundabout and get to the other side. Take the street that goes up towards a built-up area. Take care when crossing this area.

(6) Take this path that climbs up, completely to the right, towards the Col de Perdiguer (sign). Old fire tanks on the left.

(7) At the pass, cross the small road and take the track opposite, to the right of a house. Ignore the paths on the left and right and follow the yellow markings to reach a new tarmac road. Cross it and continue on the path opposite, which leads to the village of Cosprons. Cross the village and go down a flight of steps. Turn right onto the road and continue to the track.

(8) Take this track on the left, which curves widely to the right to cross the Rec de Cosprons. Leave the track on the left, then turn left onto the next track, which crosses vineyards towards the east. Follow the track, turning left at a right angle, then right at a right angle, then left-left towards the north to arrive at the bed of the Rec de Cosprons.

(9) Follow the dry stream bed, pass under a railway bridge and turn right. Follow the railway line, leaving the waste disposal site on your left, and climb up towards the D914 at the roundabout. Go around it on the right, crossing the road carefully.

(10) Immediately ignore the two tracks that branch off to the left and descend the path, which is still signposted, towards Banyuls-sur-Mer, visible on the right. Pass close to some large buildings (health centre) and take the footpath that runs along the coast to the left. You will arrive at the coastal path.

(11) Follow it northwards. Erosion by the sea on the cliffs means that it is not always possible to follow them closely. It is necessary to follow the very good yellow markings carefully to avoid turning back by taking old paths that no longer lead anywhere and contribute to erosion (or to the top of impassable cliffs).

(12) At the intersection with a track, ignore it and continue to the right. The view of the sea and its coves, often accessible only by boat, is spectacular.

(13) Take the paved road and pass through a gate to reach the hamlet of El Forat, consisting of small houses abandoned by fishermen but restored and converted into second homes. Cross the hamlet and continue along the road to arrive in front of the large buildings of a former powder magazine.

(14) Leave the road and take a path on the right that follows old concrete buildings before coming out at Anse de Paulilles. This is a large, landscaped area. Walk along a large wall on a wooden floor, cross a stream on a footbridge and climb up to a small tunnel in the middle of old concrete buildings.

(15) Further on, when you reach Bernardi Beach, walk along the sea in the sand to find the path that continues along the coast. The path winds along the cliffs, rising and falling to follow the contours of the terrain until you reach Balanti Beach. The view of Cap Béar and its lighthouse is magnificent.

(16) Continue along the beach, then on the coastal path.

(17) After Anse Santa Catarina, pass between pretty little houses with stunning views of the sea. Take the path that climbs up to the left to reach the paved road and return to the car park (S/E).

This hike should be avoided in strong winds, which can make it difficult to keep your balance on the cliffs above the sea.

In hot weather, set off very early, with at least some water, or refrain from walking.