Hills and valleys in Villeneuve-sur-Tarn

Once in Villeneuve-sur-Tarn, park in the small car park next to the church, which can accommodate three to four vehicles.

Signposting:^GR®®36(white and red) +^PR®® (yellow)

(S/E) Leave the car park and head right, walking alongside the road. Pass a lamppost bearing directional signs, then turn right at the junction to cross the bridge over the Ruisseau de Malagousse. As you come off the bridge, turn left onto the Route de Gos, following the double signposting. Continue to the third bend.

(1) Turn left onto a narrow, sunken path marked by a small wooden sign bearing the inscription^{‘GR®®36’}painted in red. After a fairly steep climb, you’ll emerge onto another path which you should follow to the right. About twenty metres further on, keep to the right in the bend and begin a steady climb to emerge into the open onto another path with two tracks.

Yellow^PR®® markings

(2) Continue to the left, letting the^GR®® branch off to the right. Keep heading in the same direction and walk along the hillside through a beautiful wooded area dominated by chestnut, oak and beech trees. Go round the beautifully restored house at Le Coustil: the IGN map is incorrect here, as you should go round to the right of the building. Continue down the slope until you reach level ground and join the D53.

(3) Turn left, follow the road on the left-hand side to cross the bridge, then turn right at the Rivière Basse. Follow the country lane as it winds up the beautiful valley of the Ruisseau de Malagousse. Do not hesitate to look back to enjoy the view of the castle perched on its wooded spur.

Signposting:^GR®®36(white and red) +^PR®® (yellow)

(4) Turn off to the left at the ‘Le Canabel’ sign and follow a wide path that climbs steeply via a series of hairpin bends. Before reaching La Claverie, temporarily leave the dual signposting by taking a shortcut to the right, which rejoins a wide, flat, grassy path further up.

^PR®® yellow signposting

Turn right and follow this lovely path until you reach a tricky junction, as it is very poorly marked on the ground. You’ll need to keep a sharp eye out for the sign a few metres before it.

(5) Turn left onto a path which immediately begins a very steep climb up the hillside and leads to a narrow tarmac road. Turn right to follow it and reach a Fork in the road marked by a recycling bin on the right-hand side.

(6) Keep to the left on the gently ascending road, then do the same again about a hundred metres further on. Stay on this road, ignoring the access roads to farm properties, until you reach a junction.

(7) Keep left towards Nozierettes, leaving the turn-off to Nozières on your right. Before reaching the buildings in the hamlet, take care not to miss the right-hand turn onto a path lined with ferns, signposted by a poorly positioned sign a few metres beforehand. Cross the tiny Ruisseau de Badaillac and head uphill to Espinassolles, where you’ll rejoin the tarmac road.

(8) Follow the road to the left for a few dozen metres, then turn right at the junction. After the occupied house, the road gives way to a dirt track which climbs steeply, running alongside a field on your left, to reach the highest point of the walk.

(9) Take in the view to the east and begin the descent to the left until you reach the first junction.

No signposting

Ignore the signposting to the left and head straight on to the right to take a shortcut leading to Le Truel. At the edge of the woods, keep left again to enter them and continue the descent. You’ll arrive at Le Truel at the church and cemetery, from where a very steep tarmac road leads to the village centre.

Yellow^PR®® signposts

(10) Cross the road and take the lane opposite that heads down to the left, then turn immediately right. At an old stone cross next to a hideous breeze block building, continue to the right, following the sign on the walking signpost. When you reach the very new sewage treatment plant, continue to the left and follow the lovely sunken path which leads to the junction with a cross-country track, where you should turn left. Make sure you keep to the right-hand side of the fence as you head towards the woods and enter them. A few bends lead to the D77 at a place called Cougoussac.

(11) Follow the road to the left, keeping to the left-hand side of the carriageway. Just before a fountain on the left, cross over to join a path on the right; the first few tens of metres of this may be very wet as it serves as a drainage channel for a small stream. A three-way junction in the path appears at a concrete slab: head slightly to the right, ignoring the wider path going uphill to the left. Further on, you’ll rejoin the D77.

(12) Follow it to the right, keeping to the right-hand side, to avoid having to cross it further on. Walk past the Pradels des Cuns buildings and leave the road, heading right towards the house. A few metres further on, pass the entrance to this house on your right and take a path opposite, lined with boxwood: the signposting is poor at this point. You’ll come out onto the tarmac road running alongside the River Tarn, downstream from the Saint-Pierre power station.

(13) Continue along the road in the same direction. It’s a very pleasant walk, with the Trébas campsite and river beach – which is very lively in summer – on the opposite bank. Join the D77.

(13) Carry on to the right along this road, where there are numerous access points to the river for a welcome break if you wish. At the entrance to the village, leave the bridge on your right and continue straight ahead. Pass the school and you will soon reach the church and the starting car park (S/E).

Classified as ‘Medium’, this route would merit a ‘Medium+’ rating due to the very steep climb over 200 m after (5).

There are numerous sections through woodland of chestnut, beech and oak trees, which provide welcome shade in hot weather. However, the return stretch between (13) and the D77 is on tarmac in full sun, so do remember to protect yourself.

This walk follows almost exactly the^PR®® route known as ‘Lou camin dels Castanhals’. The signposting is good, except at (1), where you might hesitate if you fail to spot the small, weathered wooden sign, and at Les Pradels des Cuns after (12). To help you find your way, directional signs are placed at key junctions.

Before setting off, bear in mind that around a third of the route is on tarmac, though these are lovely, quiet country roads: we encountered just two vehicles in July 2022. This in no way detracts from the tranquillity and rural charm that prevail throughout.

There is a fountain about 200 m past (11). Water quality not verified. Bring enough water with you.

Hiking boots are recommended, as are walking poles to aid progress on the steep sections.

Villeneuve-sur-Tarn: on your return, take the time to wander through the village and read the various information boards illustrating life in days gone by, with photos and very interesting commentary. Numerous buildings are featured under the heading ‘Once upon a time here’: café, vicarage, blacksmith’s, grocery shop, etc.

The village of Trébas-les-Bains.

Ambialet.

Lincou.