Coll de Paracolls via little-known paths

On leaving Amélie-les-Bains from the direction of Perpignan via the D115, turn sharp left towards Montalbà. After 1.7 km, park in an open area (altitude 328).
Take care not to obstruct access to properties. ¹

(S/E) Set off due east towards the Santa Engràcia Chapel. The path climbs towards the road and ends in concrete steps.

(1) Continue left along the road, climbing for 150m. Look out for a path on the right that climbs steeply.
Turn right and head uphill along this path, which runs parallel to the road. It then turns due south. On the right, near an EDF pylon, you can take a short detour to admire the magnificent scenery.

(2) At the fork in the path, turn left and head uphill. The path turns due south, then due north in a wide bend, leading to a junction with a track.

Head right uphill along a wide path, leaving the track on your left. The path quickly turns south-east, climbing through the forest. Continue for about a hundred metres until you reach a bend to the right on the wide path.

(3) Look out for a wooden sign high up on a tree on the left, bearing the inscription: ‘La Croix – direct route (difficult)’.
Turn left and then immediately right, following the ridge through the forest on a very steep climb.
You’ll reach a large white wooden cross where there are a few facilities (a bench, a geological display). Carry on until you reach a fork in the path on a well-maintained track.

(4) Turn left towards the Chapel of Santa Engràcia, passing the Còrrec Fosc, which is often dry. You’ll reach a large, beautiful, open and well-maintained area. Head slightly left as you descend. There are numerous information boards here.

(5) Santa Engràcia Chapel. A beautiful building in perfect condition, open to visitors. The site is a well-maintained area in the forest, with a few picnic tables. It’s also a lovely spot for a break. Walk round the chapel, keeping to the left.
You must now find a path to the right behind the chapel, passing in front of a ‘casot’ (a small hut typical of the Pyrénées-Orientales) secured with a chain.
There are some recent signposts here. Follow the signs for Montalbà.

Caution: do not take the shortcut on the left, which descends very steeply to the south-east.
The path to follow heads due south then curves to the left, staying at the same level. Cross the Còrrec del Clot del Truc for the first time; it is often dry. Ignore a path branching off to the right towards the spring.
The path now descends rapidly and crosses the Còrrec again. Join a good path and head right, continuing to descend. Ignore a steep shortcut on the left. Continue downwards.
Cross the Còrrec one last time. You’ll arrive in an open area.

(6) At the fork, turn right towards the ruined Mas Mascarat. Ignore the path on the left that descends towards the road (towards Amélie-les-Bains).
The path skirts the ruins of the farmhouse, situated on the left, and descends. Cross the Còrrec de can Mascarat. The path continues along the hillside for 400 m after the Còrrec.

(7) At the fork (a very small open area), turn right up a steep path through the forest, towards Mas Pagris and the Coll de Paracolls.
Please note: it is essential to follow the fairly frequent yellow markings, consisting of large lines or patches.
The path is well marked and there are also cairns. You must stay on this path at all times.
The route to follow until you rejoin the^GR®®10(Coll de Paracolls) is not shown on any map.

(8) Two successive junctions. At the first, head straight on, climbing towards Coll de Paracolls. There are old signposts there. Very soon after, at the second junction, head straight on again. Pass Mas Pagris on your left. Continue climbing along the path, which is clearly marked on the ground.
Please note: further on, when you reach Còrrec, follow the old, clearly visible yellow markings.

After Còrrec (at around 855 m), the path turns left, heading due south, and continues to climb.
You’ll reach an open area (around 900 m). The path then turns right, heading south-west, staying level along the 900 m contour line for about 120 m. You’ll reach another open area.

(9) Pass a good path on your right which runs level towards the rocks. Now head downwards, south-west, still following the old, clearly visible yellow markings.
The path then turns due west (at around 870 m) before climbing towards the clearly visible pass.
Join the^GR®®10and head right for 30 m to reach the Coll de Paracolls.

(10) A lovely spot for a lunch break. The view is unobstructed. The Roc de Sant Salvador is clearly visible to the south-east. From this pass: the^GR®®10, a^GRP®®, a^PR®® and the ascent to the Piló de Belmaig all pass through here.
The route to follow, which is not shown on the IGN map, is marked on OSM.
Head right, north-east, along a path that climbs steeply through the forest.
Note: this path follows the ridge route of the Belmaig trail. White or red markings, numerous cairns and wide orange tape circling the trees (October 2019). You’ll reach the open area at the highest point of this ridge (altitude 981).

(11) A very beautiful, open spot. At the bottom of the valley you can see the Moli de la Paletta; higher up, the hamlet of Montalbà d’Amélie. Turning round to face south-west, you can clearly picture the steep climb up to the Piló de Belmaig.
Then continue downhill, due north, along a path that is very clearly marked on the ground.

(12) At the fork, turn right onto the^PR®®, marked with yellow signs. Continue down this good path.

(13) Junction. Old signposts. Turn right, heading uphill towards the Santa Engràcia Battery.
This is also a lovely, open spot. A 360° view helps you get your bearings in these heavily wooded mountains. All that remains are the building’s impressive foundations. A metal Catalan/French flag flies proudly at this high vantage point. It’s hard to imagine that cannons were once mounted here.
Then turn back to the previous junction.

(13) Two options depending on how much energy you have left:
- Carry on straight ahead to shorten the walk.
- Alternatively, head up to the right to reach the Santa Engràcia battery. A very scenic path leads there, and it’s a beautiful spot with a 360° view.

(14) Head back down to the previous fork in the path.

(13) Continue to the right along this lovely, wide, downhill path which provided access to the battery. Further down, you’ll come to a fork you’ve already passed on the way there.

At the two junctions you come to (one to the left, one to the right), which are very close to each other, carry on straight ahead, and you’ll come to a junction you passed on the way there.

(3) Carry on straight ahead, in the opposite direction to the outward journey, and arrive at a fork, which you also passed on the outward journey.

(2) Carry on all the way to the left along a wide path. Head downhill, leaving a path on your left, and rejoin the road.

(1) Cross the road, find the concrete steps and follow the path back in the opposite direction to the (S/E).

The GPX track is absolutely essential, as a large part of the route is unmarked.
If in doubt from point (7) onwards, you must know when to turn back.
- either turn back,
- or head towards Can Riubanys, Montalbà. After a short descent, you’ll reach the D53b road; follow it to the left. At the junction of two roads, at point number 393, rejoin the D53 and follow it to the left. At the junction with a track on the left, at altitude 413, follow it to the left (^PR®®) and rejoin (3).

If you cannot park here, you can park a little further up near an EDF pylon.

Please note: it is essential to follow the fairly frequent yellow markings. The path is well marked and there are also cairns between points (7), (8) and (10). The route is not shown on any map.

There is spring water at the chapel, but you’ll need water purification tablets or a filter flask.

This is a mid-mountain area. So, as you’d expect, you’ll need: rainwear, water, a packed lunch, route details, a description, a map, a GPS, a camera, good walking boots and a walking stick.

Hike completed on 3 March 2019

Amélie-les-Bains