From Perpignan, head towards Le Boulou (D900) then Céret, Amélie-les-Bains and Arles-sur-Tech (D115). Continue on the D115 and, on leaving the hamlet of Le Tech, turn sharp right onto the D74a, heading uphill towards the hamlet of La Llau (l’Allau on IGN maps). Caution: the 7 km road, which is in good condition, is narrow in places. At the entrance to the hamlet, turn sharply right onto a small, poorly maintained road, then head for a car park at Coll de la Rua. Do not continue past the steel barrier.
Old, yellow signposting – very sparse
(S/E) Pass the steel barrier and the stony track leading to the Sant-Guillem refuge on your left.
Head due north, crossing and closing an electric fence behind you. Follow this Pinousette Forest Track through the Haut Vallespir State Forest. This narrow, grassy track climbs steadily. At around 1,090 m, the track is better maintained and widens. As you pass the Còrrec de la Barda, this track turns due east then heads south-east, crossing two further còrrecs. These three torrents form the Ribera de la Fou, which carves out the Gorges de la Fou (closed) further down. Pass a boundary marker no. 21, repainted white, on the right-hand side, and a trough on the left-hand side.
(1) At around 1,190 m, leave the narrower track that descends to the right. Continue south-east. The landscape opens out onto beautiful pastures. You’ll reach the two buildings on the right-hand side of Mas Lleguer, which are in very good condition. The track then turns north to reach a junction with another track on the left. Continue straight ahead for a few dozen metres.
(2) On the left is a shelter, which is usually well-maintained and clean, and the Fontaine del Brigader at track level, though the spring does not always flow. A lovely spot for a break: benches and tables. Continue for about thirty metres until you reach a fork with another track on the left. Signposts.
YellowPR®®markings
(3) Take this track leading uphill to the left. Follow the signs for Pla de Rodes. This pastoral track climbs steeply, offering beautiful views along the way. The track levels out slightly before reaching the extensive grazing area of Torres d’en Costa (altitude: 1,502 m). Directional sign.
No markings
(4) Pass the climb to La Souque on your right. Follow: Coll de l’Estanyol – Sant Guillem Refuge. The sheep track now heads westwards, across open ground, taking you through the magnificent Pla de Rodes.
(5) At this junction of tracks, at an elevation of 1,546 m, head straight ahead, due north. After 500 m, the track turns westwards, climbing more steeply, and reaches the Coll de l’Estanyol at an elevation of 1,684 m at the junction of tracks and paths. Junction with the GRP®. A lovely spot for a lunch break.
Red and yellow markings forthe GRP® Tour du Canigó and Vallespir (as far as the Chapel of Sant-Guillem)
(6) Pass the path to the Batère Refuge straight ahead and a PR® signpost to Leca on the right. Behind a rock, look for a square wooden post signposting the Sant-Guillem Refuge to the left. Head up to the left and look for a cylindrical post indicating the exact location of the Col de l’Estanyol.
Staying on the sheep track, continue now south-west. The scenery is magnificent. At around 1,740 m, the track ends and becomes a small stony path heading due west. Continue like this for 300 m until you reach a junction at the 1,772-metre mark at Roca Cuculera (Coucoulère Rock).
(7) Ignore the path straight ahead and a signpost indicating: ‘La Cabane Vieille’. Turn left and descend steeply for a few metres. Stay on the GRP®®. Please stick to the path and do not try to cut across; there is significant erosion in this area. Thank you. A long descent through the forest follows. The trail on the ground does not correspond exactly to the IGN trail. The roof of the Chapel of Sant-Guillem comes into view. You’ll come to a track suitable for vehicles and a cross, at around 1,320 m.
Yellow markings
(8) Pass the chapel on the right, taking care to respect the residents and the site; thank you. Further down, join the access track and head right. The area is still fenced off (7 May 2022); do not attempt to cross this electric fence and continue along the track towards the refuge
(9) At the Sant-Guillem Refuge (food and drinks available, very warm welcome), turn back but do not head back up to the chapel. Continue along the track until you reach the sharp left-hand bend.
Off the marked trail
(10) Head straight ahead, due east, along another track, passing a damaged wooden gate. There is a recent sign prohibiting all motorised vehicles. This track climbs until it emerges from the forest. Then continue on level ground through this beautiful, open landscape for about 500 m until you reach a grassy track on the right at around 1,360 m. An electric fence blocks this track.
(11) Head right into the pasture and turn left, heading due south-east, after 50 m. You will immediately notice the semi-buried Pla de la Faga sheepfold, which protrudes from the ground, lying perfectly horizontal against the horizon.
(12) The site has been cleared and will no doubt be made safe. Please do not climb onto the roof. Thank you.
After walking round it, continue down this wide grassy track, heading broadly south.
The track eventually turns right towards the relay mast and the EDF installations.
(13) Continue the descent until you reach a concrete track at Mas Ventós.
(14) Turn left and head downhill along this track, which very quickly becomes stony again. This will take you to the Col de la Rua (S/E).