(S/E) From the Tourist Office (a 15th-century house), head left towards Sainte-Marie Cathedral (15th–17th centuries), then turn right from the cathedral onto Rue Laborde, where you’ll find the Napoleon Column.
(1) You’ll arrive at Place Salinis (it was Archbishop de Salinis who had this square laid out around 1863). Continue to the right, towards the Tour d’Armagnac (40 metres high, it was built in the 14th century to serve as a prison).
Head down the monumental staircase on the left (completed in 1853), which links the historic town with the new town.
Stop on the first landing, where you can see the ‘Observatoire du Temps’, a contemporary sculpture by the Catalan artist Jaume Plensa, and further down, the statue of d’Artagnan, captain of the King’s Musketeers, who was born at Castelmore Castle in Lupiac.
(2) At the first landing of the staircase, continue towards the Porte d’Arton (the old city gate, topped by the half-timbered gatekeeper’s lodge).
Take Rue de Vieille Pousterle and note the various ‘pousterles’ on the left – these are steeply sloping medieval alleyways, cut by steps leading down towards the Gers).
(3) Turn right onto Rue de la Convention; at No. 22, admire the Henri IV house.
(4) Turn right onto Rue d’Espagne. On the right, on Rue Edouart-Lartet, note the chapel of the former Jesuit college, then turn left onto Rue de Valmy, passing under a portico.
You’ll arrive at Place des Carmélites (with its wrought-iron cross), then at Place Saluste-du-Bartas (featuring a statue of the poet, born in 1544 in Monfort in the Gers, the municipal library and music library, and the former 17th-century Carmelite chapel).
Head towards Rue de la République and return to the tourist office (S/E).