Cerbère via the coastal path and return via Puig Joan to Banyuls

This is a demanding hike that begins on the coastal path, allowing you to discover several coves and secluded beaches as well as beautiful views of the Côte Vermeille. The arrival in Cerbère marks the beginning of the second part, where you will climb to reach the magnificent Puig Joan viewpoint after a very challenging ascent. The return journey is along the ridge, offering remarkable views of both the vine-covered hinterland and the coast.

Details

3545348
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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 16.78 km
  • ◔
    Average duration: 7h 05 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Difficult

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 802 m
  • ↘
    Descent: - 808 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 451 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 2 m

Photos

Description of the walk

In Banyuls-sur-Mer, follow the D 914 towards Cerbère. About 2 km further on, be careful not to miss the narrow tarmac road on the left that leads to the unmarked water treatment plant. However, an old wooden sign with the words "sentier littoral" (coastal path) indicates that you are on the right track. Park in the car park for five to six vehicles next to the barrier blocking access to the treatment plant.

Yellow PR® markings

(S/E) Head towards the signpost indicating the coastal path. The slope becomes steep and a few steps help you negotiate it before reaching the hollow of a small valley with a tiny cove on your left. Continue straight ahead, ignoring the horizontal trail that branches off to the left, and climb up to a wooden post bearing the sign.

Bear slightly to the right to cross another hollow in the ground and, once you reach a very large cairn, turn sharply right uphill and continue to the junction with a cross-country track.

(1) Turn left, then keep to the right at the next two junctions to get closer to the cliffs. The track, which has now become a path, heads south and leads to the small beach of Taillelauque. Then veer right onto a track suitable for vehicles and follow it for a good hundred metres.

(2) Turn left onto the coastal path, the start of which is marked by a signpost. Further on, join the D 914 and follow it for a few metres until you reach a car park.

(3) Turn left to cross it and, once at the end, follow the path on the right. This path runs alongside a tarmac road and then turns left again, close to the cliffs. Turn right at the next junction, avoiding Cap Rederis, and continue to the beautiful Peyrefite beach. Walk along the upper part of the beach, heading for the clearly visible signpost at its southern end.

(4) Take the coastal path again, ignore a path on the right further on and, after a few steps, you will reach the fence of the heliomarine centre. Turn left to follow it and go around the centre until you reach a crossroads.

No markings

(5) Leave the marked trail temporarily by turning left. When you reach a fork in the road shortly after a tiny cove, turn left to stay as close as possible to the coast and you will soon come to a wide track where you will find the marked trail again.

Yellow PR® markings

Follow this track to the left to quickly reach a campsite. Do not enter the campsite, but turn left and then immediately right to walk along the fence. Once you reach the Aloès holiday village, walk along it for about 30 metres.

(6) Turn left onto the path, which winds up and down before coming out onto the D 914 just after passing over the railway line.

No markings

(7) Cross carefully at the pedestrian crossing and climb the stairs opposite, which lead to Impasse Canadeils. Turn right, then take the first left and the first right, Rue du Mas Nadal.

(8) Be careful not to miss the stairs on the left that lead up to a small square. Go straight ahead, turn left and then left again into Rue Paul Cézanne.

Yellow PR® markings

(9) Turn right uphill onto Rue Raoul Dufy. At the end of the street, the tarmac gives way to a cement track which quickly becomes stony. Continue to the junction with a track suitable for vehicles (cistern no. 323).

(10) Cross this track and take the narrow path opposite, following the signs for Puig Joan, indicated as 45 minutes away. This is the most challenging part of the hike, a steep climb where you will need to stop occasionally to catch your breath and rest your legs.

Once you reach the ridge at the paragliding launch site, turn left and continue along the path until you reach a crossroads with a track near a moving monument to a firefighter who died in a fire.

(11) Turn left uphill and follow the track to the large electricity pylon, at the foot of which you will find a signpost.

(12) Ignore the path on the right, which you will take on the way down, and continue along the track, leaving it on the left to take a path that serves as a shortcut and leads to the summit of Puig Joan.

(13) Enjoy the exceptional 360° panorama. Turn back to the pylon.

(12) Turn left onto the narrow path that descends the northern shoulder of Puig Joan. You will reach Coll de la Creu.

No markings - a few cairns

(14) Leave the yellow markings on the left and climb up opposite on a well-marked path that follows the ridge. After a very steep descent, where you will need to be careful due to fatigue at the end of the hike, the path reaches a tarmac road at Coll de Gran Bau.

(15) Turn immediately left onto a wide path and ignore the first turn-off on the right further on. Take the next one, pass a house and you will come to a crossroads. Turn left and after two hairpin bends, turn right onto the narrow tarmac road that leads to the first houses of Banyuls-sur-Mer. Continue straight on along Rue du Séris until you reach a four-way crossroads.

(16) Turn right onto Rue Édouard Chatton and, in the right-hand bend, keep left on a stony track, then continue straight ahead on the tarmac road that descends to the D 914.

(17) Cross carefully at the pedestrian crossing, then turn right along the road, which is protected by a low concrete wall. Further down, the path joins a wider track, where you turn right, leaving the access to Plage du Troc beach on your left.

Continue along this path, which quickly leads to the water treatment plant (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : km 0 - alt. 47 m - Wastewater treatment plant
  2. 1 : km 0.73 - alt. 57 m - Track junction, on the left
  3. 2 : km 1.24 - alt. 20 m - Directional signpost, on the left
  4. 3 : km 1.98 - alt. 121 m - D914, parking area
  5. 4 : km 3.39 - alt. 3 m - Peyrefite Beach, signpost
  6. 5 : km 4.07 - alt. 13 m - Crossroads, on the left
  7. 6 : km 5.1 - alt. 13 m - Holiday village, on the left
  8. 7 : km 6.57 - alt. 48 m - D914, pedestrian crossing
  9. 8 : km 6.92 - alt. 73 m - Rue du Mas Nadal, stairs on the left
  10. 9 : km 7.16 - alt. 109 m - Rue Raoul Dufy
  11. 10 : km 8.19 - alt. 147 m - Crossroads with cistern, opposite
  12. 11 : km 8.96 - alt. 305 m - Crossroads, monument - on the left
  13. 12 : km 10.27 - alt. 428 m - Electric pylon and marker post
  14. 13 : km 10.43 - alt. 449 m - Pic Joan ou Puig Joan (460m)
  15. 14 : km 11.61 - alt. 276 m - Opposite - Col ou Coll de la Creu (270m)
  16. 15 : km 12.47 - alt. 195 m - On the left at - Col ou Coll de Gran Bau (221m)
  17. 16 : km 15.26 - alt. 48 m - Rue Édouard Chatton
  18. 17 : km 15.93 - alt. 37 m - D914, pedestrian crossing
  19. S/E : km 16.78 - alt. 47 m - Wastewater treatment plant

Notes

The hike is rated difficult due to the terrain and requires a good level of fitness.

The coastal path between (S/E) and (7) is challenging, with alternating ascents and descents, some of which are steep and often interspersed with steps, some of which are very high. The most difficult part is the ascent of Puig Joan, between (11) and (13), with a very steep climb where you will need to take breaks to reach the ridge without exhausting all your energy.

For those who do not wish to undertake this climb, you can end the hike in Cerbère and return to Banyuls-sur-Mer by taking the €1 bus operated by the Occitanie Region, line 540. There are three departures per day from Cerbère Town Hall: 8.30am, 1.30pm and 6pm. Get off at the Plage du Troc stop, climb over the concrete wall and from there follow the directions (17) to return to the water treatment plant. The panoramic views, coves and beaches make the coastal path alone worth the hike.

The yellow markings are clear and fairly dense.

There are very clean toilets at Peyrefite Beach, near the car park.

Bring enough water, i.e. 3 to 4 litres per person, if you want to do the hike during the summer season. You can quench your thirst at Peyrefite Beach, where there are two bar-restaurants.

Good hiking boots with Vibram-type soles are recommended as the terrain is stony.

Worth a visit

This hike is ideal for swimming, especially if you want to finish at Cerbère. I particularly recommend the small Taillelauque Beach before the (2) and Peyrefite Beach before the (4).

If you have time, don't miss:

Banyuls-sur-Mer

Cerbère

Collioure

 Always be cautious and plan ahead when you're outdoors. Visorando and the author of this route cannot be held responsible for any accidents occurring on this route.

The GR® and PR® markings are the intellectual property of the Fédération Française de Randonnée Pédestre.

Reviews and comments

4.8 / 5
Based on 15 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.8 / 5
Ease of following the route
4.5 / 5
Route interest
5 / 5
Fuxi
Fuxi

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 16, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

We only did the coastal path section from Banyuls to Cerbère (very easy return journey by train).
The yellow markings are fairly clear. The trail is quite rough in places, but easily passable with walking shoes.
You can refill your water bottles at Peyrefite beach. There are numerous coves where you can go for a swim.

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chanchou
chanchou

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Jan 12, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Route hesitating between 7 and 9. Demanding hike due to short but steep gradients.
It's a shame that the fire destroyed everything.

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Marianne et Heidi
Marianne et Heidi
• Edited:

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Jan 02, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

We only did the section along the coastal path, from Cerbère to Banyuls, leaving a car at the end point with a picnic on Peyrefitte beach, and that was more than enough! The path is very well marked, very safe, with constant ups and downs, and even steeper in the afternoon. The scenery was magnificent, but a section at the end of the afternoon through a completely burnt hillside was rather sad.

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Bobl'infatigable
Bobl'infatigable

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Feb 15, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Given the time of year, we parked in Banyuls.
We set off around 9 a.m., but it was too late because the hike is long.
The coastal path is magnificent. The climb after CERBERE wasn't too difficult, as the weather is favourable in February. The descent after Puig Joan is slippery and it's difficult to find your way after point 14.
We arrived a little before 5 p.m., which took 8 hours including stops. In summary, it's a magnificent walk but requires good shoes and you need to be in good shape.

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Laurent-Tlse
Laurent-Tlse

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 15, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Leaving Cerbère, I started with Puig Joan, from point 7. The climb between points 10 and 11 was quite steep.
Magnificent view from the Puig.
The coastal path is splendid. It can sometimes be difficult to find your way with all the paths, but the main points are included in the description.
It's a real rollercoaster ride! There are no flat sections.
The "difficult" coastline seems appropriate to me given the length and elevation gain.

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jfqb66
jfqb66

I recommend starting with the climb up Puig Joan (climb while it's still cool) and finishing with the coastal path (several opportunities to swim)

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mariecnl
mariecnl

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 24, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Great coastal hike.
The first part is busier than the second. The first part runs along the sea and offers many opportunities for swimming, particularly in the coves. The second part offers superb views of the sea. There is a fairly difficult section after Cerbère. Be careful in the sun as there is very little shade on the second part.

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GERARD MARYSE
GERARD MARYSE

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Feb 21, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Magnificent hike. Difficult on some parts of the coastline in strong winds.

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Sof1974
Sof1974

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Feb 09, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Total elevation gain just over 1,000 metres, compared to the advertised 780 metres.

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Annie et Jean-Marc
Annie et Jean-Marc

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : May 24, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

Difficult level to reach the beach from the coastal path.

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jfqb66
jfqb66

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Apr 30, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Circular made from Banyuls, starting with the climb to Pic Joan. This allowed for a swim at Pierrefitte

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Patrick P14.
Patrick P14.

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : May 17, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

Superb hike. We only did the coastal section because there was a very strong north wind that day.

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lecabos
lecabos

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Apr 15, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

A lovely walk in beautiful weather. However, the route is physically demanding due to its ups and downs. Magnificent coves and beaches. Beautiful sea views. Well-marked route.

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gillav
gillav

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Mar 01, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A very beautiful hike that remains quite physically demanding. Allow 7 hours without stops. Take the time to look at the scenery and enjoy the sea views.

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Goms31
Goms31

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Dec 19, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A superb hike, but quite demanding, partly because the coastal path alternates between ascents and descents, but also because a magnificent straight climb awaits us halfway through the route. However, the views are well worth a little bit of healthy "suffering". There are many stony paths, so make sure you wear suitable footwear.

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