Cerbère via the coastal path and return via Puig Joan to Banyuls

This is a demanding hike that begins on the coastal path, allowing you to discover several secluded coves and beaches as well as beautiful views of the Côte Vermeille. The arrival in Cerbère marks the beginning of the second part, where you will climb to reach the magnificent Puig Joan viewpoint after a very challenging ascent. The return journey is along the ridge, offering remarkable views of both the vine-covered hinterland and the coast.

⚠️Check whether the coastal path linking Argelès-sur-Mer to Cerbère is open or closed here before starting this hike.

Details

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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 10.43 mi
  • ◔
    Average duration: 7h 05 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Difficult

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 2,631 ft
  • ↘
    Descent: - 2,651 ft

  • ▲
    Highest point: 1,480 ft
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 7 ft

Photos

Description of the walk

In Banyuls-sur-Mer, follow the D 914 towards Cerbère. About 2 km further on, make sure you don’t miss the narrow tarmac road on the left leading to the sewage treatment plant – it is not signposted. However, an old wooden sign bearing the words “sentier littoral” indicates that you’re on the right track. Park in the car park, which can accommodate five to six vehicles, situated next to the barrier blocking access to the treatment works.

Yellow PR® markings

(S/E) Head towards the signpost indicating the coastal path. The slope becomes steep and a few steps help you negotiate it before reaching the bottom of a small hollow with a tiny stream on your left. Continue straight ahead, ignoring the level track branching off to the left, and climb up to a wooden post bearing the signpost.

Veer slightly to the right to cross another hollow, and once you reach a very large cairn, turn sharply right uphill and continue to the junction with a cross-country track.

(1) Turn left, then keep to the right at the next two junctions to get closer to the cliffs. The track, which becomes a path, heads south and leads to the small Taillelauque beach. Then turn right onto a track suitable for vehicles and follow it for a good hundred metres.

(2) Turn left onto the coastal path, the start of which is marked by a signpost. Further on, join the D 914 and follow it for a few metres until you reach a car park.

(3) Turn left to cross the car park, then, once at the far end, follow the path to the right. This path runs alongside a tarmac road before veering left back towards the cliffs. Turn right at the next junction, avoiding Cap Rederis, and continue to the beautiful Peyrefite Beach. Walk along the upper part of the beach, heading for the clearly visible signpost at its southern end.

(4) Return to the coastal path, ignore a path branching off to the right further on, and after a few steps you’ll reach the fence of the heliomarine centre. Turn left to walk alongside it and go round the centre until you reach a crossroads.

No signposting

(5) Temporarily leave the signposted route by turning left. When you reach a fork shortly after a tiny cove, veer left to stay as close as possible to the coast; you’ll soon emerge onto a wide track where you’ll rejoin the signposted route.

Yellow PR® signposting

Follow this track to the left to quickly reach a campsite. Do not enter the campsite, but turn left and then immediately right to walk along the fence. Once you reach the Aloès holiday village, walk alongside it for about thirty metres.

(6) Turn left onto the path, which winds up and down like a rollercoaster before coming out onto the D 914 just after crossing over the railway line.

No signposting

(7) Cross carefully at the pedestrian crossing and go up the steps opposite leading to Impasse Canadeils. Turn right, then take the first left and the first right in turn onto Rue du Mas Nadal.

(8) Take care not to miss the staircase on the left which leads up to a small square. Go straight on, turn left, then left again into Rue Paul Cézanne.

Yellow PR® signposts

(9) Turn right uphill onto Rue Raoul Dufy. At the end of the street, the tarmac gives way to a concrete track which quickly becomes stony. Continue to the junction with a track suitable for vehicles (water tank no. 323).

(10) Cross this track and take the narrow path opposite, heading towards Puig Joan, signposted as a 45-minute walk. This is followed by the most gruelling part of the walk: a steep climb where you’ll need to stop occasionally to catch your breath and rest your legs.

Once on the ridge at a paragliding launch site, veer left and continue along the path leading to a junction with a track near a moving memorial to a firefighter who died in the line of duty.

(11) Turn left uphill and follow the track to the large electricity pylon, at the foot of which there is a signpost.

(12) Ignore the path on the right – which you’ll take on the way down – and continue along the track, leaving it on the left to take a path that serves as a shortcut and leads to the summit of Puig Joan.

(13) Enjoy the exceptional 360° panoramic view. Head back down to the pylon.

(12) Turn left onto the narrow path that descends the northern shoulder of Puig Joan. Reach the Coll de la Creu.

No signposting – a few cairns

(14) Ignore the yellow markings to the left and head up the opposite slope along a well-marked path that follows the ridge. After a very steep descent – where you’ll need to be careful as you may be tired by the end of the walk – the path reaches a tarmac road at Coll de Gran Bau.

(15) Turn immediately left onto a wide track and, further on, ignore the first turn-off to the right. Take the next turn, pass a house and you’ll reach a junction. Turn left and, after two hairpin bends, turn right onto the narrow tarmac road leading to the first houses in Banyuls-sur-Mer. Continue straight on along Rue du Séris until you reach a four-way junction.

(16) Turn right onto Rue Édouard Chatton and, at the right-hand bend, keep left onto a stony track, then carry on straight ahead along the tarmac road that descends to the D 914.

(17) Cross carefully at the pedestrian crossing, then turn right along the road, where you’ll be protected by a low concrete wall. Further down, the path joins a wider track, where you turn right, leaving the access to Plage du Troc on your left.

Continue along this track, which soon leads to the sewage treatment plant (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : mi 0 - alt. 154 ft - Wastewater treatment plant
  2. 1 : mi 0.46 - alt. 187 ft - Trail junction, turn left
  3. 2 : mi 0.77 - alt. 66 ft - Signpost, on the left
  4. 3 : mi 1.23 - alt. 397 ft - D914, car park
  5. 4 : mi 2.1 - alt. 10 ft - Peyrefite Beach, signpost
  6. 5 : mi 2.53 - alt. 43 ft - Junction: turn left
  7. 6 : mi 3.17 - alt. 43 ft - Holiday village, on the left
  8. 7 : mi 4.09 - alt. 157 ft - D914, pedestrian crossing
  9. 8 : mi 4.3 - alt. 240 ft - Rue du Mas Nadal, stairs on the left
  10. 9 : mi 4.45 - alt. 358 ft - Rue Raoul Dufy
  11. 10 : mi 5.09 - alt. 482 ft - Crossroads with a water tank opposite
  12. 11 : mi 5.57 - alt. 1,001 ft - Crossroads, monument – turn left
  13. 12 : mi 6.38 - alt. 1,404 ft - Electricity pylon and signpost
  14. 13 : mi 6.48 - alt. 1,473 ft - Pic Joan ou Puig Joan (460m)
  15. 14 : mi 7.21 - alt. 906 ft - Opposite the - Col ou Coll de la Creu (270m)
  16. 15 : mi 7.75 - alt. 640 ft - Turn left at the - Col ou Coll de Gran Bau (221m)
  17. 16 : mi 9.48 - alt. 157 ft - Rue Édouard Chatton
  18. 17 : mi 9.9 - alt. 121 ft - D914, pedestrian crossing
  19. S/E : mi 10.43 - alt. 154 ft - Wastewater treatment plant

Notes

The walk is rated as ‘Difficult’ due to the terrain and requires a good level of fitness.

The coastal path between (S/E) and (7) is challenging, with a series of ascents and descents that are sometimes steep, often interspersed with steps, some of which are very high. It is particularly the ascent of Puig Joan, between (11) and (13), which is the most challenging section, with a very steep climb where you will need to take breaks to reach the ridge without exhausting all your energy.

For those who do not wish to undertake this ascent, you can finish the walk in Cerbère and return to Banyuls-sur-Mer by taking the €1 bus operated by the Occitanie Region, route 540. There are three departures a day from Cerbère Town Hall: 8.30 am, 1.30 pm and 6.00 pm. Get off at the Plage du Troc stop, climb over the low concrete wall and, from there, follow the route description provided at (17) to return to the sewage treatment works. The panoramic views, coves and beaches along the way make the coastal path alone well worth the walk.

The yellow signposting is of good quality and quite frequent.

Very clean toilets are available at Peyrefite Beach, by the car park.

Make sure you take enough water – 3 to 4 litres per person – if you plan to do the walk during the summer season. You can stop for a drink at Peyrefite Beach, where there are two bar-restaurants.

Good walking boots with Vibram-type soles are recommended as the terrain is stony.

Worth a visit

This walk is ideal for a swim, especially if you plan to finish at Cerbère. I particularly recommend the small Taillelauque Beach before the (2) and Peyrefite Beach before the (4).

If you have time, the must-sees are:

Banyuls-sur-Mer

Cerbère

Collioure

Always be cautious and plan ahead when you're outdoors. Visorando and the author of this route cannot be held responsible for any accidents occurring on this route.

The GR® and PR® markings are the intellectual property of the Fédération Française de Randonnée Pédestre.

Reviews and comments

4.8 / 5
Based on 16 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.8 / 5
Ease of following the route
4.5 / 5
Route interest
5 / 5
visiorando26
visiorando26

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 13, 2026
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Make sure you take some water bottles with you for the route. It really gets your legs going.

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Fuxi
Fuxi

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 16, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

We only did the coastal path section from Banyuls to Cerbère (very easy return journey by train).
The yellow markings are fairly clear. The trail is quite rough in places, but easily passable with walking shoes.
You can refill your water bottles at Peyrefite beach. There are numerous coves where you can go for a swim.

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chanchou
chanchou

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Jan 12, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Route hesitating between 7 and 9. Demanding hike due to short but steep gradients.
It's a shame that the fire destroyed everything.

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Marianne et Heidi
Marianne et Heidi
• Edited:

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Jan 02, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

We only did the section along the coastal path, from Cerbère to Banyuls, leaving a car at the end point with a picnic on Peyrefitte beach, and that was more than enough! The path is very well marked, very safe, with constant ups and downs, and even steeper in the afternoon. The scenery was magnificent, but a section at the end of the afternoon through a completely burnt hillside was rather sad.

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Bobl'infatigable
Bobl'infatigable

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Feb 15, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Given the time of year, we parked in Banyuls.
We set off around 9 a.m., but it was too late because the hike is long.
The coastal path is magnificent. The climb after CERBERE wasn't too difficult, as the weather is favourable in February. The descent after Puig Joan is slippery and it's difficult to find your way after point 14.
We arrived a little before 5 p.m., which took 8 hours including stops. In summary, it's a magnificent walk but requires good shoes and you need to be in good shape.

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Laurent-Tlse
Laurent-Tlse

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 15, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Leaving Cerbère, I started with Puig Joan, from point 7. The climb between points 10 and 11 was quite steep.
Magnificent view from the Puig.
The coastal path is splendid. It can sometimes be difficult to find your way with all the paths, but the main points are included in the description.
It's a real rollercoaster ride! There are no flat sections.
The "difficult" coastline seems appropriate to me given the length and elevation gain.

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jfqb66
jfqb66

I recommend starting with the climb up Puig Joan (climb while it's still cool) and finishing with the coastal path (several opportunities to swim)

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mariecnl
mariecnl

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 24, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Great coastal hike.
The first part is busier than the second. The first part runs along the sea and offers many opportunities for swimming, particularly in the coves. The second part offers superb views of the sea. There is a fairly difficult section after Cerbère. Be careful in the sun as there is very little shade on the second part.

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GERARD MARYSE
GERARD MARYSE

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Feb 21, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Magnificent hike. Difficult on some parts of the coastline in strong winds.

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Sof1974
Sof1974

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Feb 09, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Total elevation gain just over 1,000 metres, compared to the advertised 780 metres.

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Annie et Jean-Marc
Annie et Jean-Marc

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : May 24, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

Difficult level to reach the beach from the coastal path.

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jfqb66
jfqb66

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Apr 30, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Circular made from Banyuls, starting with the climb to Pic Joan. This allowed for a swim at Pierrefitte

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Patrick P14.
Patrick P14.

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : May 17, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

Superb hike. We only did the coastal section because there was a very strong north wind that day.

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lecabos
lecabos

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Apr 15, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

A lovely walk in beautiful weather. However, the route is physically demanding due to its ups and downs. Magnificent coves and beaches. Beautiful sea views. Well-marked route.

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gillav
gillav

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Mar 01, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A very beautiful hike that remains quite physically demanding. Allow 7 hours without stops. Take the time to look at the scenery and enjoy the sea views.

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