Around the smugglers

The Rando des Passeurs in Chapelle-des-Bois changes its route every year. For those who are unable to do it in June, here is a hike that takes you through Mont-Noir and Risoux on trails used by the Passeurs de Chapelle-des-Bois.

⚠️ From 15/11 to 15/03: This hike crosses Nordic ski trails that are groomed in winter. Out of respect for skiers and the work of the ski patrollers , we kindly ask you not to walk on the trails.

Details

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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 14.49 km
  • ◔
    Average duration: 5h 15 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Moderate

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 396 m
  • ↘
    Descent: - 397 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 1,373 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 1,076 m

Photos

Description of the walk

(S/E) Departure from the church square in Chapelle-des-Bois. Take the path leading to the start of the trails (towards the holiday centre) via the Route des Clarines, then turn right onto Chemin Minon, then straight ahead onto Route des Pâturages and take the forest road to La Beurrière farm.

(1) Just after the farm, turn right and head into the forest. The path leads to Combe des Cives, keeping generally north-east. Follow the map carefully at each intersection!

(2) When you leave the forest, continue east until you reach the departmental road. Turn left and continue for 100 metres, then cross the road and turn right near a wooden building to enter the hamlet of Chez Buffard. Continue along the path until you reach marker 21 (Cardot crossroads).

(3) At this signpost, temporarily leave the route and turn left for 200 metres, then right after a small car park. You are now on Chemin de la Fessette, named after a famous female smuggler. Follow the grassy path to the boundary wall. Do not leave the path unless you have a guide. The interesting karst landscape (including sharp limestone pavement) can be dangerous due to holes and caves.
Crossing the border is easy... Continue along the path until you reach a forest road. Turn left. The Rendez-vous des Sages is 500 metres away.

(4) The hut has been rebuilt based on the plans of the old one. Memories of the war years still linger here. Take the time to browse through the guest books. To find the Chemin du Cardot, retrace your steps. Well, almost! Take the forest path on the right, keeping the hut in view for a few metres. On your left, you will see a well-marked path. Follow it to the boundary wall. Then turn left and follow the wall until you reach the Chemin de la Fessette. This is an opportunity to see some beautiful boundary markers that have been in place since the 18th century!

(3) Go back down Chemin de la Fessette to the small car park, then turn left onto Chemin du Cardot.
The fairly wide path will take you south-west to the Croix du Risoux and the Roche Champion, which overlooks the village. The view of Chapelle-des-Bois and the valley is superb.

(5) Head back down to the village (S/E) via the long-distance hiking trail (red and white markings). The route is physically demanding but safe.

Waypoints

  1. S/E : km 0 - alt. 1,089 m - Place de l'Église
  2. 1 : km 1.39 - alt. 1,099 m - On the right
  3. 2 : km 3.19 - alt. 1,091 m - Towards the RD
  4. 3 : km 4.82 - alt. 1,273 m - Return
  5. 4 : km 6.6 - alt. 1,356 m - Meeting point for the Wise Men
  6. 5 : km 11.76 - alt. 1,328 m - On the left - Roche Champion
  7. S/E : km 14.49 - alt. 1,088 m - Place de l'Église

Notes

As the route passes through Switzerland, don't forget your identity documents.
Please note that there are no water sources along the route. It is ESSENTIAL to bring something to drink.

This route passes through a protected area, which may be subject to special regulations:

Worth a visit

(S) The Hôtel des Mélèzes, at the starting point of this hike, was run by Jules Bouveret, the father of Bernard, the last smuggler! This is where Fred Reymond, a Swiss organiser of the Chapelandes networks, liked to spend time before the war. It was here that he got to know them and came to trust both father and son completely.

(2) As you leave the forest, note the solidly built cyclopean wall; in the field opposite, a perfectly circular mound, hollowed out around its perimeter, could be a tumulus (unfortunately never explored). These may be evidence of the presence of inhabitants in Chapelle-des-Bois several millennia ago.

At Buffard's. At the end of the paved road is the Blondeau-Zizi farm run by Nénette (aged 15 in 1943), a refuge for smugglers after their night-time escapades.

In Chapelle-des-Bois, visit the 17th-century church and the eco-museum in the Combe des Cives.

Reviews and comments

4.3 / 5
Based on 31 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.3 / 5
Ease of following the route
4.4 / 5
Route interest
4.3 / 5
User 21556018

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 11, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : Yes

Nice hike, challenging start followed by a pleasant walk through the French and Swiss Jura forests.
The only downside is the last section on tarmac (about a kilometre and a half to get back to the starting point)

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Jean-Michel Rando
Jean-Michel Rando
• Edited:

Overall rating : 3 / 5

Date of your route : Apr 26, 2025
Reliability of the description : Not used / Not applicable
Ease of following the route : Not used / Not applicable
Route interest : ★★★☆☆ Average
Very busy route : No

We found it more interesting to do the hike in the opposite direction because the last descent is quite technical, especially on wet ground (roots, stones).
So, in the opposite direction: the first climb is gradual and easy, with the roots acting as steps. Then, once you've passed La Roche Champion, there's a long stretch which is quite pleasant as it's quiet and in the forest.
The detour to the Rendez-vous des Sages is not particularly interesting, unless you want to learn more about the smugglers from the information panels. The chalet has been renovated and is not open.
Return to the hamlet of Les Buffards via an easy descent, but with stones on the path, which is not very pleasant.
The last part of the hike is through the forest to Chapelle des Bois.

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skiroll
skiroll

Hello,

I don't know which app you used to follow the route. It was mapped on the IGN 1:25,000 map and correctly follows the paths without what you refer to as "straight lines".
As mentioned several times, map reading is almost essential when hiking. It allows you to be very precise and, if necessary, saves you from making small "navigation" errors.
Best regards
Skiroll

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Thierry256
Thierry256
• Edited:

Overall rating : 3 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 04, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★☆☆ Average
Ease of following the route : ★★☆☆☆ Disappointing
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

The route is mapped out on the app using straight lines rather than following the paths exactly. This makes intersections ambiguous and prone to errors. A shame.

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Cathy21200
Cathy21200

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 15, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

Thank you for this beautiful hike, which we were able to follow thanks to the GPX route.
As it had rained heavily over the last few days, we decided to do the route in reverse as we had read that there were some slippery sections with exposed roots. We made the right decision!
We missed the start of the GR trail... but we quickly found it again by climbing into the woods.
Very beautiful views.
We stopped for a picnic near the "Rendez-vous des sages" hut, a historic landmark.
It was a lovely walk.

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Sylvie Duboz
Sylvie Duboz

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Nov 13, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : Yes

Very beautiful hike. Encounters with chamois. One downside, however: the end of the hike. We were told that the descent would be physically demanding but not dangerous. Personally, I didn't feel comfortable on this descent... lots of roots, very wet and very steep. I felt reassured to have walking sticks but still wasn't completely at ease.

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zonzon
zonzon

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 09, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

We did it backwards, skipping the forest section at the start, which we already knew. So, climbing from Chapelle des Bois, La Madone, the climb is fine despite large trees that have been cut down or have fallen... the climb is difficult on the rocks just before reaching Roche Champion, despite the handrail (I found the last section difficult, as a tree had fallen on the last part of the handrail and the step is very high and not very wide; the section on the humus was very slippery, but I managed it better last year). We had a picnic near the cross, with a magnificent view of the Mortes and Bellefontaine lakes. Then we headed for point 3, an easy, well-marked path, although a bit long. We skipped the Chemin des Sages because we were tired (we're not getting any younger, so we'll do it next year!). We stopped for a snack at the top of Chez Buffard and then wandered through the field below because it was milking time and the cows had a small corridor marked out by an electric fence (I'm not sure) and they were all passing through it to get to their barn... We returned to Chapelle des Bois through the forest, which was very refreshing on this beautiful, hot day...

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MARTDomi
MARTDomi

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 01, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Very nice hike.
The alternating ups and downs prevent monotony between 3 and 5
The descent, which is quite physically demanding, is picturesque

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vpersiani
vpersiani

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Mar 10, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No


The circuit is very pretty, the view from the Champion Rock is superb, BUT
it was impossible to descend from the rock to Chapelle des Bois on 10 February.
The GR5 marked on the route descends via a very narrow path on the side of a ravine that was completely icy. Perhaps feasible for an experienced and well-equipped mountaineer, but not for a hiker.
A second path downhill about 1 km back started off well but ended after 10 minutes on a very steep, icy descent with a cable that wasn't enough to convince us.
The result was a quick U-turn to retrace our steps without getting stuck in the snow at nightfall.
In the end, it was more frightening than harmful, but we covered 24 km!

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daddy bear
daddy bear

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 25, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

Beautiful hike, worth doing...

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Jhk
Jhk

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jan 15, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

After the Rendez-vous des Sages, we didn't dare go through Switzerland to get to Roche Champion, as we didn't have a 25,000 scale Swiss map. A few details, such as the elevation and the layout of the path, would have prevented us from having to go back down to the previous fork and take this long, not exactly flat, route!
As for the descent from Roche Champion to Chapelle des Bois, we were particularly glad to have small crampons on our feet!

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Bidochon54
Bidochon54

Overall rating : 3.7 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 26, 2019
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good

Circuit completed during a heatwave. The tree canopy provided welcome shade from the heat.
The advice to bring water with you is not just a warning. The view at the foot of the cross is very pretty and the descent is probably more difficult if the ground is wet.

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Montjura
Montjura

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 10, 2019
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good

Very good hike, however, at one point along the route to the hamlet, the directions are unclear at the end of the first forest road after the farm at the end of the road. Take a right at the intersection. It's a shame there isn't a sign indicating the way to the hamlet at Buffard's house, but after that, everything is fine.

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skiroll
skiroll

Hello,
Yes, you can follow the Swiss route. But then you won't see the most interesting part of the border wall with its 18th-century boundary markers.

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frantz25
frantz25

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Nov 05, 2018
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

Superb hike

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