Country:
(S) From Álftavatn to Hvanngil. Distance: 3.8 km, elevation gain: +91 m. Total distance from Landmannalaugar: 24.9 km; elevation gain: +732 m.
Leave the camp heading east, parallel to the road, and cross the two footbridges spanning the lake’s spillway.
(1) Turn right (south) to descend gently towards its confluence with the River Bratthálskvísl and cross its wide ford (alt. 550 m).
(2) Continue south for approximately 2.5 km, down a gully-ridden slope and then across a green plateau, crossing a track (F210). Avoid the track’s ford by taking a footbridge (alt. 570 m) and rejoin the F210 immediately afterwards.
(3) The same applies about a hundred metres further on. Leave the track and, via a footpath, head for the Hvanngil plain and then the campsite of the same name (alt. 560 m). The mountain hut is equipped with showers and toilets, and the campsite is situated on a patch of lava ash.
(4) From Hvanngil to Emstrur. Distance: 15.2 km, elevation gain: +239 m. Total from Landmannalaugar: 40.1 km, elevation gain: +971 m.
Head south towards the plain and rejoin track F210 (south-west).
(5) Leave the track to cross the River Kaldaklofskvísl via a footbridge. Shortly afterwards, you’ll reach a junction.
(6) Leave the F210, which heads off to the left (south-east), and follow the F261 track opposite (south-west). Cross the Blafjallakvísl River ford (alt. 550 m), which becomes deep and treacherous towards the end of the day.
(7) Follow the track to your right, then begin the long, undulating crossing of the Mólifellssandur ash desert, strewn with broken rocks and dominated by a series of volcanoes. Follow a depression and descend back towards track F261.
(8) Cut across its hairpin bend and then follow it. Cross the bridge over the turbulent Innri-Emstruá and, shortly afterwards, come to a fork in the track.
(9) Ignore the track heading west and take the path to the left (south-west). The desert gradually gives way to sparse vegetation. Pass a small pass (alt. 600 m) overlooked on the right by Mount Útigönguhöfðar.
(10) As you descend (south-west), cross a stream (alt. 530 m) and then, 2.5 km further on, turn left towards the south. After 100 m, there is a short detour of 3.4 km with a 165 m climb to admire the impressive Markarfljot River canyon.
(11) Leave the path leading down towards the foot of Emstrur and turn right. Cross a track, then head for the junction with the circular path you are to follow.
(12) Take the path on the right; the return route is via the one on the left. Continue along the ridge overlooking the canyon. After a hairpin bend, head back up towards the junction of the circular route.
(12) Head right and climb until you rejoin the path.
(11) Turn right, head down a gully and reach the Emstrur campsite (alt. 465 m). The mountain hut has showers and toilets, and its campsite is set amongst stunted vegetation.
(13) From Emstrur to Thorsmork. Distance: 16 km, elevation gain: +361 m. Total from Landmannalaugar: 56.1 km, elevation gain: +1332 m.
Head eastwards, cross a stream, then (south-east) ascend diagonally up the left-hand side of the valley and cross the Botnaà stream via a ford.
(14) Walk across a plateau and descend (south) the slope of the Fremri-Emstruà valley, which you cross via a footbridge (alt. 360 m).
(15) Continue to the left (east) along the river and head up (west) onto the plateau overlooking it. Turn left (south-west), following the River Markarfljot along the upper reaches of its valley. Cross a few streams flowing into the Markarfljot and gradually descend towards the valley of the River Ljósá, a tributary of the Markarfljot. Cross it via a footbridge (alt. 260 m).
(16) Head up the opposite side of the valley (alt. 320 m). Continuing to follow the river valley at a distance, descend towards the River Þröngá (alt. 230 m). Crossing it may prove dangerous at the end of the day. The ford is easiest to cross at its widest point, just downstream of the central islet.
(17) Cross the small Hamraskógar Forest, populated by birch, willow and rowan trees whose growth is limited by the harsh climate. To complete this trek, head for the base of Thorsmork (“Þórsmörk”) at the edge of the woodland (alt. 220 m). The mountain hut is equipped with showers and toilets, and there is a small campsite on the tree-lined meadow.
(18) The bus stop for bus number 9 to Seljalandsfoss waterfall is about a hundred metres further on. Standing 65 metres high, it offers the unique attraction of being able to walk behind it (E).
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