Date of your route : Jul 27, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No
Hello everyone,
A quick review of this hike:
We are two brothers aged 20 and 27 and did this route in July 2020, camping along the way. It was our first hike, so our comments are those of inexperienced people ^^. We are quite athletic and, to be honest, we thought hiking would be something rather 'easy... after this first experience, we have to admit that hikers are machines! For these three days, we each carried a 13kg rucksack, and we think that's the maximum, or even less if possible (around 10kg should be fine).
Day 1: What a tough day! It was almost entirely uphill and very hot. There was a pretty waterfall along the way. There were lots of people going in the other direction, as it seems you can take the chairlift up to the Crête du Lys and then walk down. In our case, it wasn't intentional, but we arrived at Lake Ilhéou without going via the ridge. Once at the lake, we didn't regret the hours spent climbing at all! It is magnificent, and swimming there after a long day of sweating is priceless! After setting up the tent, we walked along the ridge from the lake, without our bags (what a pleasure!). It was early evening and there was no one there. Once at the top, the view is truly magnificent, the mountain is beautiful, and you feel very small. However, on our way back down to the lake at dusk, we got caught in a storm and had to run to the tent for fear that it would blow away without us in it ^^ So, lesson number one: in half an hour, the weather can change completely.
Day 2: Departure for the Col de la Haugade, which is a steep climb. It's a steep climb right from the start, which is a great way to begin the day. We found this part a little dangerous. At times, it felt more like rock climbing than hiking. So you have to take it slowly and be careful not to slip. In the absence of markings, small piles of stones show the way. It's a steep climb but not very long, and once you reach the top, the view is magnificent once again. Many people cross the pass and come back down, but here we "cross" it (I'm not sure if I'm explaining this clearly) and make our way through the rocks to reach Lac de l'Embarras, where there is hardly anyone on this side of the route. We then climb up to Lake Pourtet. There's no swimming here, as there's no access to the water and, above all, the lake is almost black in a very mineral landscape... we can feel that we're starting to be at a bit of an altitude. We had the opportunity to see a few marmots at this point in the route.
Then we started to descend... and honestly, the descent seemed endless. We thought we would do a circular loop around the Opale lakes, but it was really impossible for us. We finally arrived at the Marcadeau refuge around 7 p.m., completely exhausted. Here, the landscape is completely different, very wooded.
Day 3: After sleeping surrounded by cows, horses and sheepdogs, we started the third day thinking that, given the previous days, we wouldn't be able to follow the route without it turning into a painful physical ordeal. So, to keep things enjoyable, we bypassed the Col d'Arratille to go directly to Pont d'Espagne (which hurt our egos but did our legs a world of good ^^), a magnificent path through wooded scenery... very pleasant. Once at Pont d'Espagne, it is possible to reach Lake Gaube, which we absolutely wanted to see. We were very tempted to take the chairlift between Pont d'Espagne and Gaube, but we resisted and the climb was easy, taking about an hour (we were starting to get into a good walking rhythm on the third day). Lake Gaube is very beautiful but very, very crowded.
Then we descended, taking an hour to return to Pont d'Espagne and then two hours to return to the La Raillère car park (not one hour as indicated on the sign at Pont d'Espagne, which is incorrect). It was a magnificent path surrounded by waterfalls, but we were still glad to arrive at the car park ^^
Conclusion: a magnificent hike that is definitely worth it but requires a good level of fitness. As beginners, we were clearly unable to do the Opal Lakes or the Col d'Aratille. Honestly, to make it physically enjoyable while still doing the entire route, it would be a good idea for beginners to plan for four days.
A big thank you to the person who posted this route, it was a wonderful first experience. 
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