Urtarai (1152 m) walks

The forty-seventh stage of the Camino de Santiago. A long stage but less gruelling than the previous day’s, despite a somewhat arduous descent towards Zubiri. Along this route, you’ll alternate between landscapes of beech and pine forests and charming little villages with typical Navarran architecture. From this stage onwards, the signposting on the Camino de Santiago in Spain consists of yellow arrows—either painted on the ground, on building facades, on rocks or on trees—or specific European signage featuring a stylised yellow scallop shell on a blue background. This logo may also take the form of bronze scallop shells nailed to walls or set into the ground in the major towns along the route, indicating the direction towards Santiago de Compostela.

A beautiful stage in the Pyrenean foothills along country lanes.

The forty-sixth stage of the Camino de Santiago. A physically demanding stage, featuring the ascent of the Pyrenees, splendid views of the surrounding Basque Country if the weather permits, free-roaming herds, a sense of being high up, and the excitement of crossing into Spain. After a long, steep descent, you arrive at the Monastery of Roncesvalles. Given the altitude of the finish point and the cool temperatures, I preferred the monastery dormitory to camping. From Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, a whole new journey begins. The landscapes are no longer the same, nor are the pilgrims. From here on, there are ten times as many people on the paths. Very few French people and lots of Koreans, Australians, Americans, Filipinos and, of course, Spaniards. From here on, you have to speak Spanish or English or use Google Translate. But you always manage to make yourself understood and get by. That’s the magic of the Camino de Santiago.