Second car park after Tarcenay on the D67 coming from Besançon, at the bottom of the hill coming from Ornans.
(S/E) Head towards the Cédez le Passage sign with a marker and drive very carefully up the departmental road on the right for 300 m (towards Ravin du Puits Noir, yellow and blue markings). Turn right onto the stony path that descends towards the river.
(1) When the path climbs again, descend to the right via the small wooden steps to reach the banks of the Brême and the Puits Noir, a landscape that inspired Gustave Courbet. He painted it more than fifty times. Follow the river upstream through a dark, hidden and impenetrable world of moss and stone. There is a two-metre metal ladder to climb down. When I visited in mid-March, with no leaves on the trees, the Brême was bathed in sunlight, its banks dotted with yellow and white daffodils and snowdrops.
(2) At the signpost, continue for 150 metres to the Gouille aux Chèvres, also immortalised by Gustave Courbet, and go around the rock. A gouille in our local dialect is a puddle, a hole in the river. Return to the signpost and climb the steep hillside on the right, using the wooden steps, until you reach the old Tacot road, now a cycle path. Follow it to the right (towards Plaisir Fontaine).
(3) Cross the D280 at the old station and continue opposite along the stony path, following the cliff edge and crossing an old bridge.
(4) At the tunnel, you have two options:
- (4a) Take this 180-metre tunnel (it is lit) and join point 5 and a signpost via the Tacot road.
- (4b) Or, for the more adventurous, and I recommend this option, explore the tunnel for a few metres and return to the sign. Turn right onto the unmarked path that climbs and goes around the tunnel. 50 m higher up, the path forks. Take the right-hand track to discover a beautiful, unsecured viewpoint (be careful!) over the Brême valley, Bonnevaux du Bas and the Tourbillon rock. Retrace your steps for a few metres and turn right onto the path, which widens to become a trail. Ignore the crossings coming from the left. Soon you will be walking along the Tacot path on your right. At a barbed wire fence, you will join a marked trail (white-red and yellow-blue) which you will follow downhill to the right to quickly rejoin the Tacot path, which you will cross.
(5) Continue along the path that climbs up opposite. You are now on the VTT27 mountain bike trail. 100 m further on, at the signpost, turn left (towards Rocher du Tourbillon) onto the path that climbs up through the pasture. With the pasture on your left, follow the tree-lined ridge on your right.
(6) About 50 metres before the end of the woods, look for signs on the right and take the forest path on the right towards Rocher du Tourbillon: a pretty, open path on the hillside with views of the cliffs on the other side.
(7) When the path stops climbing, at a signpost and a hairpin bend, continue straight ahead towards the Tourbillon. The path quickly splits and the two branches rejoin a little further down. The marked path takes the left-hand path.
(8) At a tree with signs, you will join another path and turn right towards Rocher du Tourbillon. You will arrive at the first viewpoint over the Brême valley, Bonnevaux du Bas. Continue to the second viewpoint over the Reculée de Plaisir Fontaine. The viewpoints are secure, but remain vigilant. The edges of the cliffs were covered with crocuses. Retrace your steps
(8) Go down to the right towards Bonneveaux du Bas. Join the D280 at a hairpin bend and go down to the right until the next bend.
(9) At the end of the bend, on the other side of the wooden barriers, look for the path that climbs into the woods on the left. It quickly joins a wider path that you follow downhill to the right.
(10) At the hairpin bend, continue down the path on the left until you reach the old priory.
(11) At the priory, turn right onto the small paved road and continue straight ahead at the departmental road.
(12) At the intersection of the D280 and D280E, head towards Ornans and turn left before the bridge onto the gravel path that will take you across the Brême on two small footbridges. Enter the pasture through the metal gate, making sure to close it behind you. Cross the pasture diagonally, leaving the pond behind you and heading towards the opposite wooded corner, staying in the lower part of the meadow. There is a marker on a tree. Cross the stream on the logs and you will find a beautiful forest path that will take you back to the car park, following the sparse but well-placed signs to avoid any confusion.
(13) A short distance from the finish, at the signpost, continue on the same path (towards the D67 car park) to return to the starting point. Finally, cross the main road carefully and descend to the Brême well, as recommended by Stephane R2, who has posted some beautiful photos.
(14) To do this, take the path at the end of the wooden fence on the other side of the road, crossing the river via a strange round stone bridge (S/E).
The route includes ledges and unsecured viewpoints. Rocky and slippery paths in places. Good footwear is essential and walking sticks are recommended. Not suitable for young children, inexperienced hikers or those with mobility issues (unless carried). The first part of this route along the Brême requires you to be well equipped (wet, rocky and slippery areas, two-metre metal ladder to climb down).
