The Louyre Canyon via the Dolmen de l'Houme

A hike to the end of the world (although close to the city) where you will hardly meet anyone. You will feel like you are at the end of the world as you descend to the bottom of a canyon, part of which you will hike along its most interesting length. A feeling of adventure and action, Indiana Jones is not far away.

Details

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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 11.45 km
  • ◔
    Duration according to the author: 4 hrs 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Very difficult

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 388 m
  • ↘
    Descent: - 388 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 474 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 200 m

Photos

Description of the walk

In Aubenas, take the road towards Privas. At the Saint-Privat exit, at the roundabout (Garden Centre), take the road towards Lussas. Almost at the end of the straight road, park on the left (one or two spaces) at the entrance to the path, just before the bridge over the Louyre.

(S/E) Hiking sign. Take the main road uphill towards "Croix de l'Houme". Stay on this road, marked in white and yellow, for about 3km.

(1) At the intersection, take the path, also marked in white and yellow, on the right at the hairpin bend.

(2) On the descent, at the large intersection, look for the oak tree on the right and the dolmen. Ignore the path that descends towards the valley on the left, continue to the "Croix de l'Houme" hiking sign, and take the wide, curved path on the far right (towards Saint-Laurent-sous-Coiron Sevenier). The path descends slightly.

(3) As soon as it heads due south, take the first path at a right angle on the left, which climbs slightly, still marked in white and yellow, about ten metres away. It turns to the right after 150 metres; continue. The path heads due south along the hillside, then curves eastwards and then north-eastwards.

(4) Look out for a fork in the path. The wider path heads due north and climbs slightly. Take the smaller path on the right. The fork forms a small triangle of paths, and a red arrow has been painted on a tree inside the triangle. Shortly afterwards, you will find the white and yellow markings again. The path becomes narrower and more uneven, winding above the canyon before descending into it. Ignore the path that climbs up opposite towards Sevenier.

(5) From this point, follow the canyon as closely as possible, on the right (downstream). It is very difficult to give a precise description from this point onwards, as the route changes from one season or year to the next. Follow the canyon as closely as possible: generally in the riverbed, on small paths (made by regulars) that veer slightly away from the bed to avoid the most difficult obstacles. These paths are clearly visible if you pay attention; they are sometimes marked by small, discreet cairns - three or four stones - or by a line of fluorescent yellow paint. You will first encounter this type of path twice, which veers away from the riverbed on the left and then rejoins it.

At a fairly vertical waterfall – 6 metres high if there is no water, about 3 metres if there is still water in spring, for example – take a path on the right along the side of the cliff, leave it after 30 metres by descending a large natural stone staircase that forms a limestone tongue, and rejoin the riverbed. This is the most significant obstacle. As a general rule, never walk in the water. If there is no other option, depending on the season, never walk in water if you cannot see the bottom, as there may be deep holes (I have seen up to 4 metres of water!) and the edges may be slippery.

(6) You will enter the first, then the second meander. At this point, there are no further difficulties in walking through the canyon. You will just have to cross from one bank to the other from time to time. There are red paint marks in some places to indicate that you need to change sides. At the exit of the second bend, follow a few horizontal slabs. Before the river descends and curves to the left, look for a path that slopes diagonally to the left.

(7) From this point, you will leave the canyon behind. Follow this path, which will take you to a ruined house less than 100 metres away.

(8) Stand facing the ruins, below. The path continues to the right, following the river: ignore it; following the river to the starting point requires a good knowledge of the area. Take the path that goes around the ruins on the right and climbs uphill. Be careful a little further up, where there are hairpin bends and flat rocks just to your right with a 60-metre drop in front of you. Continue climbing this path until it leads to a wide track (Roman road).

(9) Take the Roman road on the right until you reach the tarmac road at a hairpin bend. Continue down the road.

(10) Before the next hairpin bend, take the path diagonally to the left, then the first path on the right that goes downhill. Join the road two hairpin bends further down, then turn left to reach your car (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : km 0 - alt. 200 m - Hiking sign at the start
  2. 1 : km 3.11 - alt. 454 m - Right-hand hairpin bend
  3. 2 : km 3.86 - alt. 463 m - Croix de l'Houme, hiking sign
  4. 3 : km 4.36 - alt. 435 m - First path at a right angle on the left
  5. 4 : km 5.72 - alt. 354 m - Fourche, leave the main road
  6. 5 : km 6.37 - alt. 322 m - River bed
  7. 6 : km 8.36 - alt. 244 m - Entrance to the meanders
  8. 7 : km 9.2 - alt. 225 m - Leaving the canyon
  9. 8 : km 9.29 - alt. 224 m - Ruined house
  10. 9 : km 9.74 - alt. 313 m - Roman road
  11. 10 : km 10.91 - alt. 250 m - Path sloping to the left
  12. S/E : km 11.45 - alt. 200 m - Hiking sign at the start

Notes

Please note that this route is reserved for those who are experienced in off-road hiking without signposts (for the canyon section).
You can do a preliminary reconnaissance of the area by going directly to the Chabanne cave-resurgence (a walk of about an hour and a half there and back, possible with children who are good walkers). See the points (10), (9), (8), (7) there and back, or the description of the photo "Chabanne cave-resurgence".

Water: although very pure (as evidenced by the presence of leeches and crayfish), the water in the Louyre is not necessarily appealing to drink, especially in summer (greenish pools). Bring enough water (at least one litre per person).

Footwear: personally, for this type of hike, I prefer lightweight "trail" shoes. However, those with fragile feet and ankles may prefer mountain boots. Some passages in the canyon can be tricky.

Walking sticks will be more of a nuisance than a help. Only take them if you don't know any other way.

Prefer summers or very hot and dry periods if you don't want to take an involuntary dip or if you can't swim (all the pools can be avoided in summer because the water level is very low).

You will be alone in the world. There is no mobile phone reception, so let someone know before you leave.
For shipowners (like me), it is possible to do this route completely naked.

Worth a visit

On the first climb: you are on the ancient seabed of the Cretaceous period, so have fun looking for ammonite footprints on the slabs along the path. There is a whole ammonite on the inside of the left-hand side of the dolmen.

At the Croix de l'Houme: remains of a large dolmen (without the upper table), 80 metres before the hiking sign, on the right, near a large oak tree.

On the descent to the canyon: look for the low walls and numerous remains of dry stone constructions, and imagine how this place was used (for grazing and farming) from the 17th to the 19th century.

In the canyon: feast your eyes and brush up on your geology: geological layers, water erosion, faults, landslides, tectonic plate shifts... A few fossils...

At the point (9) (ruins of a house), take the path to the river, then at the first intersection, take the path on the left. Follow it to the Chabannes cave-resurgence, and go under the vault, which is unmissable and grandiose. Do not make any noise and do not enter the cave, which is home to a colony of protected bats. After your visit, retrace your steps back to the ruined house.

Reviews and comments

4.5 / 5
Based on 20 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.3 / 5
Ease of following the route
4.4 / 5
Route interest
4.8 / 5
MillRun
MillRun
• Edited:

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Feb 05, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

I didn't find the first part of this hike very interesting; the limestone plateau is a bit monotonous for my taste. There were a few nice views, though. From (3), the hike becomes more varied. The fork (4) is easy to miss, but it's easy to backtrack a few metres, isn't it? The canyon from (5) is wonderful. It had been dry for quite a while, so I did it alone and had a great time. You move between boulders, on strata, between shrubs and puddles... It's slow going with quite a few obstacles, but it allows you to appreciate the surroundings. Given the whitish layer on the rocks, I can well imagine that the canyon can become very slippery in wet weather, so be careful! There was a wild boar drowned in a water hole... Go and see the Baume de Chabannes after the (9), it's really worth it!

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jpvls
jpvls

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Jan 29, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

We set off from the car park at the oppidum in Jastres, where we walked to Sévenier
and then descended into the Louyre canyon.

This canyon is truly beautiful, but for safety reasons, it is best to explore it
on a sunny day when the flora is even more beautiful and, above all, the path is less slippery!

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ptitphilou
ptitphilou

Overall rating : 3 / 5

Date of your route : Jan 14, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★☆☆ Average
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★☆☆ Average
Very busy route : No

hike done in overcast, humid weather. The first part was easy, and entering the canyon went smoothly, but then it became very, very slippery. We had the right equipment, but it was impossible to move forward because the ground was so slippery. There is one particular spot with five or six steps that are 1.5 metres long, sloping and extremely slippery, like the rest of the canyon it was very dangerous because there was nowhere to hold on to. As a result, after marker 6, we found an escape route on the right that climbed very steeply up to the Roman road. In conclusion, I think this route should only be attempted in sunny weather and by people who are light on their feet and agile, and definitely without walking sticks. It is really very difficult and if, unfortunately, something goes wrong, I think the only alternative is a helicopter

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bilotche
bilotche

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : May 03, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

I simply loved it!!
An unusual hike that I highly recommend! No problems with the route. (I had GPS.)
With a little common sense, you quickly get an idea of where to go.
I loved the section up to point 5 because the flora and fauna (saw two foxes) are very beautiful there.
No difficulty continuing from point 5 to the end. Two completely different environments! Wonderful!
Having done another canyon last year, I found this one fairly easy to access.
The river was dry...
Thank you to the author, it was great!

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sarah42
sarah42

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 12, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A beautiful route through the canyon: alone in the world, a complete change of scenery, the need to climb...
We didn't follow it all the way to the end, as we left the canyon too early and on the wrong side (difficult passage and no GPX track... I'll do this route again with the GPX track next time).
There was little water, so no danger, but you do need to be very careful if you walk in the water because there are large holes and you can go from 50 cm to 2.5 m deep in two steps! (The warning is noted in the description, so take it into account!)
In short, I recommend this unusual and very exotic route, preferably with the GPX track.

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ceros
ceros

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 12, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

There were four of us who set off on this hike, and we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves.
Progress through the canyon is easy despite everything; there are a few tricky sections, but that's why we came. We got what we were looking for.
You have to search a little for the path, use your hands to help you, climb, slide down on your bum... We felt like we were lost and alone in the world, but it was a feast for the eyes.
It was very hot, but water was flowing in places into pools, so we were able to cool our feet a little, accompanied by a few frogs.
To get out of the canyon at point 7, there is no visible path on the ground, but with GPS we managed fine and found the path higher up and the ruins below.

I will be back.

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bazooka07
bazooka07

You really must visit the old village of Saint-Laurent on foot. It's almost like an eagle's nest with a magnificent view

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bazooka07
bazooka07
• Edited:

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 17, 2019
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

Hello,
I went hiking on a Saturday. At the beginning of the week of 15 August, temperatures had dropped significantly, only to rise again on Friday. There was less fog on the day of the hike, so I enjoyed a magnificent view of the entire Aubenas basin, bordered by mountains, at the start of the hike as I climbed through the heath to the Houme cross.
After the cross, we descended into the undergrowth and enjoyed the coolness.

For marker 4, you can still see an old yellow and white paint mark.

For the large 6-metre waterfall, do not follow the path too far and descend into the riverbed as soon as possible. I'm not sure a goat would follow this path for very long as it becomes narrow and overgrown with vegetation.

The hardest part is getting out of the canyon if you haven't counted the bends at point 6.
There are two more obvious landmarks: In this bend, reeds have grown. They are not very tall but perfectly visible. After that, the canyon curves sharply to the left and arrives at a large stretch of water that is difficult to cross. You can then clearly hear the spring that feeds this stretch of water on your right. Interestingly, there is a wild fig tree at the source of the spring. On the left side of the canyon, there is a clearly visible path that climbs slightly but ends in a dead end after 10 metres. Before turning back, you should see another path below. Its entrance from the canyon is hidden by vegetation, which you will need to push aside for 2 to 3 metres. The ruined house is visible after a 5-minute walk. For your information, the vaulted cellar is in good condition.
Continue around the ruins on the left and climb the path through the undergrowth to return to the plateau. Once at the top, take the track on the right.

After point 10, you have to descend a steep path strewn with rocks, but it's better than being run over by the many cars that drive at breakneck speed on a road with no shoulder.

At the start of the circuit, you can drive up 10 metres to park in an abandoned field. There is space for 5 or 6 cars.

There is no water in the canyon except in two or three holes at this time of year. Be careful if the ground is wet, as it becomes slippery.

The hike requires good physical condition. If you are afraid of heights, don't attempt it. You also need proper hiking boots that provide good ankle support. I didn't use a GPS, just the PDF saved on my smartphone. The trails are easily visible in the canyon.

Bring drinking water, at least 1.5 litres at this time of year.

A beautiful walk. Thank you for the guide. Perhaps the exit from the canyon needs to be corrected. I spent an hour looking for the exit.

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Louis Rottier
Louis Rottier

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 19, 2019
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

A very beautiful hike without water flowing from the canyon, making it fairly easy. Under these conditions, it is more moderate than very difficult.
We couldn't find the path that goes up after Beaune de Chabanne, nor did we see the ruined house. The GPS is not at all reliable in this wooded area and against the cliff.
No matter, we followed the canyon further down and climbed up on the left when the road became visible

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ClaudeMa
ClaudeMa

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 26, 2019
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

Magnificent views during this hike. The descent into the riverbed is a treat, which won't be as easy with a lot of water, but there are other pleasures to be had.
The route is perfect, and to those who criticise it, buy a GPS that talks or learn how to find your way around.
Thank you, Ardo

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JB26
JB26

Overall rating : 3.7 / 5

Date of your route : May 21, 2019
Reliability of the description : ★★★☆☆ Average
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

The description and route are not clear in the canyon section, but I think it would have been difficult to do otherwise given the conditions there.
Furthermore, when we reached the passage that we had to go around in the canyon, we couldn't find the path to go back down.
Fortunately, with the GPS and the map, we were able to climb back up and find the route that took us back to the path we had taken on the way there (despite a short, bushy section in the forest, for which the GPS served us well).
Otherwise, it was a beautiful walk, despite everything, which we may try again another time.

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jc1955
jc1955
• Edited:

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 17, 2018
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

a very varied route: hiking, a bit of downclimbing (easy), a bit of route finding (right or left bank)
don't hesitate to stay at the bottom of the canyon; you can always go back a few dozen metres...
the canyon was dry, but three-quarters of the way along the route, a small resurgence allows you to soak in a clear pool!

After the cave, you can continue along the river, avoiding the stagnant pools, and rejoin the road (after crossing a meadow) almost at the car.

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cc42
cc42

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 23, 2018
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

a beautiful day-long hike. The canyon is very passable, with not much water. But we still found a pool of water just before the ruins where we could take a dip and enjoy the beautiful limestone slabs to dry off in the sun!

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eddydu07
eddydu07

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : May 06, 2018
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

magnificent
superb
another world just a stone's throw from Aubenas
thank you for sharing this

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bb66
bb66

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 10, 2018
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good

A lovely hike, especially in the gorge. No real difficulties apart from reading the terrain carefully to avoid a few problems. Don't be afraid of getting scratched, as you sometimes have to examine the sides of the river and choose routes through branches and brambles. We thought there would be plenty of water at this time of year, but it disappeared a few kilometres further down, probably underground. So make the most of the pools in the first half of the gorge for a quick, refreshing dip.
The GPX track is not accurate near the ruins, but follow the note in point 8 and you will rejoin the track about 200 metres further on.
Please respect the bats in the cave, which you will hear despite the incessant sound of the water.
Very good!!!

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