Access
From Cilaos: Head towards Îlet à Cordes via the D241. After the first ravine, look for the trailhead on the left, marked by a sign. Park on the side of the road at this point.
From Îlet-à-Cordes: Take the D241 towards Cilaos. After about 10 kilometres, look for the trailhead on the right, marked by a sign. Park on the side of the road at this point.
(S/E) Take the trail, first through a forest of casuarina trees and then into open country. You will see a jagged section of the plateau on which the town of Cilaos is located.
(1) After a series of switchbacks, cross the old trail to the Bras Rouge waterfall. This trail started at the old thermal baths of Cilaos, which are now closed to the public.
At this junction, follow the sign to the Cascade du Bras Rouge, turning right. The path, which varies in width, then becomes flat and heads west. You will see the Corne du Rhinocéros and the Pain de Sucre for the first time, with the chapel at the foot of the latter. Although the trail runs along the edge of a cliff, it is rarely vertiginous as it is well protected from the drop by vegetation.
On your left, you will overlook the Bras des Étangs, which you can hear but will rarely see and never cross. On the left, you can also see the jagged slopes of the Bras des Étangs district, where you can imagine that rockfalls are very frequent in this part of the cirque. The path sometimes crosses ravines before entering a thicket of casuarina trees.
A few bends further on, you can finally see the Rhinocéros in its entirety, as well as the Grand Bénard and the Château Fort, a large rock formation similar to the Roche Verre Bouteille and very popular with rock climbers.
(2) After fifteen minutes of descent, you will reach a second series of switchbacks, which are easier and less steep than the first. You can take shortcuts to reduce the distance by a few metres, but these are steeper. After this second series of switchbacks, a few gaps allow you to catch a glimpse of the Bras des Étangs, which is very rarely seen. The narrow path is a little more vertiginous after passing this second series of hairpin bends. The path then passes under a huge rock wedged between two rock faces. Passing under this natural arch marks the imminent arrival at the Ravine Ferrière.
The trail then runs alongside areas that have clearly been exploited by humans, as evidenced by the presence of stone walls. About a hundred metres after passing these walls, you can see the Bras Rouge on your left, which is not far away. A few more turns and you will see the Cascade Ferrière (dry on this particular day).
(3) A few hundred metres further on, the trail crosses the Ravine Ferrière, passing very close to a pool and a small waterfall. Unfortunately, the ravine is dry, so we only get to see the pool. Then begin a third series of switchbacks: this is the final descent to the Bras Rouge waterfall. The trail is completely exposed and the slope is slightly steeper.
(4) You will soon reach a sign warning of the danger of the area. Turn left at the sign to see the Cascade du Bras Rouge and then continue to the viewpoint at the end of the trail.
(5) The view of this iconic waterfall in the Cirque de Cilaos is impressive and well worth the detour!
Take a few minutes to admire this incredible waterfall, then return to the starting point via the same route (S/E).