Gwithian, Sand Mining, and the Dynamite Towans, a route through the dunes

St Ives Bay, 3 miles of golden sands, surfing, and sand castles. But what of the past? Was it always a tourist attraction? The huge dunes along the shoreline hide an amazing past.

This is a figure-of-eight route with numerous start points, dependent on parking availability.

This route is dependent on the tides, see Notes below.

Details

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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 6.60 km
  • ◔
    Average duration: 2h 10 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Easy

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 104 m
  • ↘
    Descent: - 106 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 57 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 0 m

Photos

Description of the walk

The start (S/E) W3W>>>, for other start points see Notes

(S/E) At the footbridge of the Red River, head in an easterly direction, and through the earth mound (it will become apparent).Continue along the track along the fenced-off bird lake (A), to the gate, turn south, and handrail the fence to the end.
In the next section, there are multiple well-used paths heading in a westerly direction. Keep to the higher side, and the route is along the top of the dune. Use the app to assist. The life guard hut and seasonal public toilets will become visible.

(1) Head southwest along the coast path.
At the end of the car park (notice the footpath running alongside the cliff, a return path from (5)), head southeast up through the dunes; the route will, at points, be parallel to the road. The path merges with the road near a road junction. There are two parking areas; go to the small parking area, which backs onto the dunes, and signage about the dunes.

(2)The route now leads through the dunes with many paths leading in various directions; stick with the app directions. Heading in a southwest direction, the route will weave around many mounds. On closer examination, it can be seen that the mound is hollow, (B) explains. The winding route will lead to a more substantial track.

See 'Worth a Visit, Along the route (B), and image of Upton Towans

(3) Turn right and northwest, following the track around a sweeping left bend, there is remains of a building on the left. Continue on the track, and as the landscape opens up on the right, a grassy area. See southwest another track, head west. Turning right on the new track, head north to the ruined building, see the building's exterior walls (B).

(4) Continue north, then right around a bend before the track divides, keep left and down the slope. Note the large slate marker stone for the South West Coast Path, and the adit grating on the left.

(5) On top of the dune, before dropping down to the beach. Looking up the coast north, see the state of the tide.
Is it clear of the Strap Rocks?
If there is clearance, continue with the route. The intent is not to race the tide. Keep a watch on the tide.
If the tide is mis-timed, return to (5) and use the Alternative route.
Other than large swell and spring tides, the incoming tide is gradual and gives plenty of time to complete this section. It is common to walk the whole beach, 3 miles, without concern for the tide.

Alternative route: There is a cliff-top route which can be followed north back to the Gwithian car park and (1).

Continue on the beach, heading northeast, reaching Peter's Point, where the dunes turn to rock and cliffs.

(6) Continue along the beach, along the cliffs.
There will be many interesting aspects to explore, including the rock formations, adits, and caves. Look out for a rusted metal anchorage on the rocks on the beach, and further along near the top of the cliff. An old miner's truck and rail track are being unearthed after many years of being buried. All remnants of (C).
Approaching Strap Rocks, there is a route between the rocky outcrop and the mainland, which was once the cart track during the sand mining.

(7) The route goes up the beach to where there appears to be a gap; a mobile beach cafe is usually above the high water mark. The Red River originally flowed through this gap, but was canalised during the sand mining years.
Follow the route around to (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : km 0 - alt. 4 m - Red River bridge
  2. 1 : km 1.59 - alt. 10 m - Gwithian lifeguard hut
  3. 2 : km 2.71 - alt. 51 m - Small parking area entering the dunes
  4. 3 : km 3.3 - alt. 42 m - Old access track
  5. 4 : km 3.85 - alt. 30 m - Ruined building
  6. 5 : km 4.37 - alt. 14 m - Leaving the dunes for the beach
  7. 6 : km 5.3 - alt. 7 m - The cliffs
  8. 7 : km 5.76 - alt. 14 m - Gwithian steps to car park
  9. S/E : km 6.6 - alt. 4 m - Red River bridge

Notes

During the holiday season, the area gets very busy, so suggest various start points, for (S/E) parking at the National Trust Car park, W3W >>> free to members. The cafe car park W3W >>> pay and display or for (1). Gwithian beach, W3W >>>, pay and display parking, which is free in the winter, or (2) Small parking areas at W3W >>> The whole area can get extremely busy with surfers and beach goers. During the dryer months, fields are opened up by the National Trust at W3W >>> which would extend the route

The timing of this route must be considered, best with an outgoing tide. Check tide state, see the lifeguards' notice board, and note where the tide line is on the Strap Rocks (1). An alternate route is available:

Before the walk

  1. Ensure the walk matches your needs, skills, and abilities
  2. Check the weather forecast; check tide times. Web cam and tide times >>
  3. Be prepared with suitable clothing and footwear.
  4. Personal medication
  5. Consider something to eat, and always keep hydrated; take a drink.
  6. Use the Visorando app, download the walk to your mobile. Consider a battery backup and or a printed route.
  7. Let someone know where you are. The app has a share route function, ‘Share my Location’.
  • Parking: Vehicle parking - There are convenient vehicle parking areas, with a choice of starting points.
  • Timing: The estimated time allows for extra time, when appropriate, for exploration and personal pace.
  • Accessibility: This route has been assigned "Easy" due to reasonable footpaths through the dunes, along the beach, and the distance.
  • Facilities: There are cafes at Godrevy and Gwithian, some seasonal
  • Handrail: Is a linear feature that has been identified as a road, wall, etc
  • Option: This is a circular route that can be walked either way. There is an option to shorten this route (1) to (7)

Start: This walk's starting point, the footbridge over the Red River- W3W >>>

During the walk

  • The Route: Where applicable, keep to the defined paths
  • The Countryside: Respect its inhabitants, and other Countryside users
  • Leave no trace: leave only footprints, but take away great memories
  • Dogs: Keep under control, and bag it and bin it, don't sling it.
  • Self-care: Know your own limitations; walking is an adventure and can involve risks. Be responsible and know when to turn back, rather than get into difficulties
  • First Aid: Treat blisters before they occur

Enjoyed the walk:

  1. Where you can: Support the local economy: have a pint, a pasty, or a cuppa.
  2. Feedback from this walk: Please leave your thoughts

Report any findings; see app ' ! '

Worth a visit

Along the route

(A) The Wetland area for native and migratory birds >>>

(B) Upton Towans - Dynamite Towans. Previously the site of the National Explosives factory until 1945, Upton Towans is a fantastic example of the power of nature. The dunes now almost entirely conceal the history of the Towans, with the occasional derelict building reminding us of the past. Looking carefully at some of the dunes, it is actually possible to see that they are square, a legacy of dynamite bunkers. See how the building was constructed, with strengthened walls on the exterior. Should an accident occur during the production process, the roof would blow off, the weakest point, and not radially toward other process buildings. National Explosives Company >>>

(C) Sand Mining. With a name like Red River, it conjures up many thoughts, but it simply got its name from all the mining runoff and the heavy metals suspended within the water. Sand Mining, heavy metals washing up onto the beach, with so much runoff. Recovering the ore became very profitable. Gwithian sand mining >>>>

Nearby

Campsite: There are numerous campsites within the immediate area where the route could be joined

Gwithian - Jam Pot cafe, Sunset Surf cafe - web cam and tide times >>>

Godrevy - The Lighthouse, Seal watching

Other walks in the area

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The GPS track and description are the property of this route's author. Please do not copy them without permission.