Circular Canigou Loop starting from Vernet-les-Bains

There isn’t really any parking at the starting point. If you’ve taken the tarmac path from the Route de Fillols, park as far away as possible near the starting point, taking care not to obstruct the path.

(S/E) Start the walk on the left, past the no entry sign, heading north (yellow markings).

(1) The tarmac road turns into a forest track: leave the track on the right and continue left through small copses to reach the Col de Juell.

(2) Turn right for about thirty metres, then head left. The almost level path runs north-east through the undergrowth.

(3) Pass the turn-offs to Fillols twice and continue to the right to reach the next signposted junction.

(4) Ignore the route to Pic Cogulló on the right and continue straight ahead (yellow markings). Cross the Fillols stream then head up to the left until you reach the track.

(5) Follow this track uphill for about a hundred metres, then turn right onto the path that branches off from the track at a hairpin bend next to a cistern. Continue through a Scots pine forest via a series of tight hairpin bends to reach the Col des Voltes (1,838 m).

(6) Take the track that climbs up opposite.

(7) Pass the Jasse des Petits Cortalets hut, which belongs to the ONF.

(8) About a hundred metres before reaching Ras dels Cortalets, take the path on the right which serves as a shortcut, rejoin the track and follow it to the right.

(9) Take the path on the left leading to the Refuge des Cortalets (2,510 m): a very pleasant spot where you can set up camp in the designated area. However, if you’re looking for more peace and quiet, I’d recommend heading into the forest between the refuge and the Estanyol pond, where you’ll find beautiful green spaces amongst the trees.

(10) From the refuge, follow the red and white GR® markings towards the south-west. Go round the Estanyol on the right and head south.

(11) At the fork (2260 m), continue to the right on the path that climbs to reach a junction.

(12) Keep left to follow the yellow-marked path which climbs to Pic Joffre, and most importantly to Pic du Canigou. Reach Pic Joffre.

(13) Continue to the left, heading south-east, to reach Pic du Canigou, at an altitude of 2,784 m: a survey table will be a great help in identifying the landmarks in the 360° panorama before you.

(14) Turn back.

(12) Turn left and rejoin the GR®.

(15) Pass the Cabane de la Castella and continue the descent, which is quite steep, to reach the Bonne Aygue refuge after crossing a track.

(16) Take the path leading down.

(17) On this section,tall grass and scrub make the path difficult to follow. Continue down.

(18) Leave the path leading to Pic Cogulló on your right and head straight on.

(19) Pass the ruins of Portella de Dalt, navigate a series of hairpin bends before reaching meadows and lower ground.

(20) Continue the descent and return to the car park (S/E).

The route is quite long and, as a result, very difficult with a steep elevation gain of almost 2,000 m. The terrain is accessible, but risky to tackle in a single day. That is why I recommend camping at the Cortalets refuge or nearby in the forest, between the refuge and the Estanyol lake, where there are superb stretches of greenery amongst the trees.
=> The Canigo Grand Site permits camping in tents from 7 pm to 9 am.

Please note: long-term renovation work at the Cortalets refuge
Following a planned renovation of the Cortalets refuge for the years 2026–2027–2028, the owner (FFCAM) has submitted a planning application.
Renovation project for the Cortalets refuge

(14) After climbing Pic du Canigou, depending on how you feel, there are two options:

• if you are tired, you can return via the same route you took on the way up; this will be easier.
• if you wish to complete the circular path, descend to (12) then take the GR® path on the left; however, this is less well-maintained, with plenty of tall grass and scrub along the route.