This walk is part of the trek Camino Santiago de Compostela to Cabo Finisterre.
You can almost smell the sea (and almost see it) but there's still over 20 km to Muxia, although the sea comes into view long before. The route alternates sections of tarmac, without much interest, with several stretches of dirt road through forests. Looking at the profile of the stage, you can see that the descent towards the coast is not exactly easygoing, rather a continuous up-and-down, with moderate unevenness.
Calculated time is computed with the distance, the height difference, and an average speed of 2.2 mph. For an intermediate walker, this time includes small breaks.
(D) Our route out of Dumbría is basically the main DP-3404 road heading north. Use the pavement to follow the road through the village and at a fork, at the white-coloured Health Centre building, bear left (there is a shell post and a number of recycling bins on the road edge). There is something of a dirt pavement, passing residential buildings and eventually coming up to a junction (sign on the opposite side pointing right to "CEE Fisterra"). Bear left along the main AC-199 road past a car repair garage "Santamaría" (there's no pavement, so stay on the left and beware of cars) and round the left-hand bend to reach a road junction with the busy AC-552. Immediately opposite is a dirt track (with a shell post) but . When this track reaches a junction (quite near the main road) turn sharp right, away from the road. Go over a stream, turn left at a junction to go round the Peña do Corvo (on the right) and follow the signs down into Trasufre.
(1) The official route seems to go round the village (shell posts indicate to stay on the main road above the village) but it's much more interesting to weave through the narrow streets of this rural village, coming out onto the main road near a bus-shelter. Turn left to follow the road north-west across the Castro river and past an abandoned building on the left and white-coloured buildings on both sides. Take the right fork (sign-posted Casa de Lema) that goes up to Agra de Senande. At a T-junction, turn right and then almost immediately left. A short distance on, turn right at another T-junction and walk through the eucalyptus forest. The forest gives way to open fields on the right, behind a dry-stone wall. This country lane eventually comes out onto the main DP-3403 road next to a long Hórreo. Bear right along the road into Senande where there are bars and a small shop.
(2) Turn left at the first crossroads, where there is a bus stop and a sign "Agrodosío, Vilastose, Casanova" (this goes past the small shop and yellow post box). Head along this local road, between farm buildings and arable crops to go through Agrodosío (ignore the sign indicating left to the village). Keep straight on with eucalyptus trees on the right, past creame-coloured buildings on the left towards Vilastose. At the next fork (here is the Cruceiro da Cancela), bear right, away from A Grixa and head north towards A Penela. A cruceiro on the right and a cemetery on the left are the beginnings of the hamlet. Turn left at the next crossroads to go down a smooth tarmacked road. At the end of the low stone wall, turn right along a track that heads across the country, through forests, over Monte da Raposa and down into the village of Quintáns, past a striking blue-coloured building.
(3) Maybe worth a visit to the Santo Isidro chapel (or the café opposite) before reaching the main AC-440 road. Go straight across the road (café Pension Plaza a short distance in front) and bear left along a street leading to a yellow post-box. Keep to the left of the post-box and left at a fork, passing a number of Hórreos. Keep left to go past a farm building and head along a hedge-rowed lane, straight across at the crossroads and continue north of the village Ozón (ignore the track to the left that goes into the village). Keep heading west along a dirt track, staying left at a junction then turning right off this tarmacked surface to go along a grassy track into San Martiño (with a very long stone granary - Hórreo - from the 16th century, one of the largest in Galicia, and the church of an old monastery, with a stone cross and its annexed cemetery).
(4) At the cruceiro, where the path meets the local road, turn right to visit the church San Martiño de Ozón and the cemetery next to it. Keep heading up the road, past a blue-coloured building, past a large cow-shed and turn sharp left at a junction with a pile of stones. Keep heading up the hill between the residential buildings, bearing right at a fork (eucalyptus trees on the right) and through the hamlet of Vilar de Sobremonte. Stay right and climbing up the slope, past an old brick water pump, inbetween house and looking out for a shell sign for a path up to the right. This is tricky as the sign is often covered by plants but the clue is a short cement staicase on the outside of a low modern building, opposite an Hórreo and a road leading down to the left. Our route is to the right and climbing through the trees towards the Pena da Serra and the first views of the Atlantic ocean. The path comes out of the forest, past some white-coloured buildings to join a local road. Head straight down the road, joining another road that comes in from the right. Follow this as it weaves it's way around the Enseada de Merexo (a bay with a number of inviting beaches) and into the houses of Os Muíños.
(5) Go through the village, crossing the stream to come out onto the main AC-440 road. Bear right past the chemist but leave the road almost immediately on the right (sign-posted "Praias de Os Muíños") that goes down to the beach. Go past a tall green water tower, over a stream (Rego de Moraime) and at a fork, in front of a house with french-windowws and flags on the balcony, turn left to start a rather hard slope, which later becomes a dirt road and later on a cobbled road. Cross the road straight ahead and continue along a narrow path, with a stone slabs, that climbs up to the old monastery of San Xián (or Xulián) in Moraime. Of the old Benedictine monastery, only the church of San Xián remains, Romanesque from the 12th century and with a basilica plan; unfortunately, visiting hours are very restricted. Its beautiful Romanesque portico stands out (it can be seen going down the steps of the porch) and the Gothic frescoes inside, painted around 1500 and representing the seven deadly sins. In front of the church, there is a hostel, in a recently renovated building, and a bar.
(6) Go past an old stone fountain and continue along a tarmac road; turn right at a shell post when the tree cover opens out. Climb up this road to the main AC-440 road, crossing with care to continue straight up, towards the hermitage of San Roque (sign-posted "San Roque Moraime"). After a stretch of dirt track, we pass by the houses of Chorente. At the T-junction, turn right and then left at the next junction. At a fork, bear left, continue downhill through the forest, with views of Muxía, to the sand of Espiñeirido beach. Cross over the road and after a section of wooden walkways, return the AC-440 road, turning right towards Muxía. Take a grassy path up the hill (Rúa Enfesto), under the electricity cables, to reach the tarmacked road that leads down into Muxía.
(A) Muxia. Don't forget that the path continues to the end of the peninsula, behind the promontory of Mount Corpiño, where the Virxe da Barca Sanctuary is located, 1 km from the center of Muxía, a walk that will be better done without a backpack. The recommendation is a circular route around this promontory, first visiting the church of Santa María, continuing to the Santuario da Barca and returning along the cobbled walkway with views of the rocky outcrops on the west side, a sublime landscape at sunset.
D : km 0 - alt. 189m - Dumbría
1 : km 3.88 - alt. 134m - Trasufre
2 : km 6.26 - alt. 141m - Senande
3 : km 11.44 - alt. 88m - Quintáns
4 : km 12.83 - alt. 60m - San Martiño
5 : km 16.77 - alt. 49m - Os Muíños
6 : km 18.06 - alt. 61m - Moraime
A : km 21.31 - alt. 12m - Muxía
As mentioned in the description of the route, there are a number of places to fill water bottles, grab a sandwich or even a "Menu del día" (especially in Quintáns) but save some room for a feast in Muxía. This is an authentic fishing village, whose fish market and restaurants will delight lovers of fish and shellfish. A highly appreciated species is the conger eel, a long-bodied fish to which they dedicate a gastronomic festival in April. During the walk, near the sea, you should be able to see two curious conger eel driers, wooden structures where these fish hang open for their curing and drying. As always, make sure you have your waterproofs to hand as this Costa da Morte is notorious for wet weather and howling gales. Hopefully, you'll get a warm sunny day and all you'll be thinking about is how nice it will be to go for a swim in the sea.
Visorando and this author cannot be held responsible in the case of accidents or problems occuring on this walk.
Two outstanding places on the route are the very long granary - Hórreo - located next to San Martiño de Ozón, and the church of the old monastery of San Xián de Moraime, from the 12th century, with its beautiful Romanesque doorway and Gothic wall paintings. On arrival at Muxía, we can request the Muxiana, a document similar to the Compostela that certifies having completed this path; free of charge at the tourist office and at the municipal hostel. Of course, the same stamps will also serve, if we continue to Fisterra, to obtain the Fisterrana there. The sunset in Muxía (if it's not cloudy and raining) are spectacular. Climb to the top of Mount Corpiño and walk over the rocks on its west side, the landscape at sunset is truly sublime. Take time to enjoy the route and remember, this is not a race and plans should be flexible. Don't leave any rubbish and don't damage the environment. Say hello to fellow walkers and help anyone who needs it. Take care of yourself and make the most of the moment!
The route is well signposted in both directions, between Muxía and Fisterra. Despite the proximity to the sea, don't expect a walk on the beach. Today's journey runs through a rural and lonely territory, with dirt roads, forests and demanding slopes. There might be walkers coming from Fisterra, so say "Hola" and maybe chat a while. Get started early and look for a lunch stop in Lires, a town located right in the middle of the day.
The first 3 km of this stage are fairly simple but then there is a bit of a climb up to Monte Aro. Our route goes up to a viewpoint to enjoy the panoramic view, but there's no need to go all the way to the top, because 500 meters before the top there is a right turn and the begining of a steep descent along a dirt track. On the descent of Mount Aro, good views over the Xallas valley can be enjoyed, including the great Fervenza reservoir.
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The GPS track and description are the property of the author.