This walk is part of the trek Camino Santiago de Compostela to Cabo Finisterre.
The route is well signposted in both directions, between Muxía and Fisterra. Despite the proximity to the sea, don't expect a walk on the beach. Today's journey runs through a rural and lonely territory, with dirt roads, forests and demanding slopes. There might be walkers coming from Fisterra, so say "Hola" and maybe chat a while. Get started early and look for a lunch stop in Lires, a town located right in the middle of the day.
Calculated time is computed with the distance, the height difference, and an average speed of 2.2 mph. For an intermediate walker, this time includes small breaks.
(D) You might be tempted to stay in Muxía (there's always the option to continue after a day or two) but Fisterra awaits and the journey isn't finished until you reach "The End of the World". So, head south out of town on the coastal DP-5201 road. Worth noting is that the route official should start at the Virxe da Barca sanctuary, 1.1 km from the town center, a place that undoubtedly has already been visited the evening before. Keep along the side of the road, always parallel to the coast; after 1 km go past the football pitch and continue towards Lourido beach. After another 1.2 km there is a junction with a number of roads that come from the south. Follow the bend to the right, ignoring the first road on the left (arrows painted on the tarmac tell you to keep on the main road). Also, ignore the second road on the left and keep on the main road for another 50 meters, until reaching a third milestone, situated on the right of the road, where the route turns 90 degrees to the left along a steep tarmacked track (there is a spring-water fountain just up from the junction). This goes all the way to the village of Xurarantes.
(1) Bear right at the first fork in the village. Continue along a dirt track, with very beautiful sections, ascending towards a hill called O Facho de Lourido. After a steep slope, where there are granite blocks as benches, our route reaches the height of 280 meters altitude, surrounded by wind turbines. Continue straight ahead and along a flat stretch, finally reaching a local road. Take a right turn, then after 350 meters turn left and continue on a tarmac road into Morquintián. Go straight through the village (take the road going down to the right past the buildings), and out the other side where there is a cruceiro. Continue on the tarmac track, which goes past a farm and hórreo before heading through a wood (eucalyptus, pine and shrubs) and eventually reaches a T-junction near some farms and a bus shelter. Go straight ahead, through the buildings of Guisamonde bearing left at a fork uphill. Continue along this track, with sections of forest, reaching a new tarmac track. Turn left and then right and follow a dirt track that slowly descends to the first houses in Frixe.
(2) Take the first right (sign-posted Baosilveiro) and head out of the hamlet southwest, through farmland and into the trees. After about 1 km, take a path to the right through the forest that leads to the village of Vaosilveiro. Here we cross the Castro river over a bridge built in 2010 (until then, the route crossed the river using a very slippery ford, where the water reached crotch level). After just 300 the path enters Lires, a small town located right in the middle of the day's walk and which has a number of bars where a lunch stop is recommended (also at the entrance to the village there is a suitable place for sitting and eating with a water pump). The village is a bit of a maze but at the crossroads where there are two Hórreos, head downhill to the right to go past Casa María. Keep heading downhill to the right (in front of an orange-coloured building), to go past a cruceiro. Bear right past Casa Lourido, follow the sign Praia de Lires and past a couple more Hórreos. Look for the church of Santo Estevo (near Casa Raúl) where there is also another place to sit and eat, overlooking the river and estuary.
(3) Our route doesn't cross the river but leaves the village along the road by the church (past the 50 speed limit sign), parallel to the river. The road heads southeast with greenhouses on the right and meadows. Look out for the shell post indicating a right turn (there is also a round mirror) that goes down to a bridge over the river, then bends round to the left to continue following the river. At a junction turn left and then right to go through trees, slightly climbing in a beautiful section that leads us to A Canosa.However, lookout for a sign that shows the path off to the left to keep on the same level and parallel to the river, entering the village along a dirt track. At the junction turn right and follow the signs into the village. Go straight across the small road in the village, bear left in front of the creame-coloured building, still going up, to reach the top road. Turn right towards an Hórreo and then dog-leg back to the left to take the track to the trees. Follow the route round to the left, heading south, in amongst the tree until it reaches Prado das Fontes (stop sign at the local road, next to a shell post).
(4) Bear right down the road but turn right at a shell post (sign-posted Praia do Rostro). Go past a red-brick building and take the first left turn onto a dirt track heading south. Go straight down this track, over a tarmacked road, and eventually reach another road at a crossroads. Turn right and follow the bend round to the left to a green bus-shelter. Turn left to head south through the hamlet of Castrexe, carrying straight on avoiding turn-offs until reaching a stop sign at a T-junction with buildings on both sides. Here, turn right for about 50 metres to take a tarmacked road bearing off to the right through the trees. This road bends round to the left to come out at a sawmill. At the T-junction turn left into the hamlet of Buxán. At the next T-junction turn left again to bear right in front of a creame-coloured building. Follow this road down to a path that runs off a sharp right-hand bend to reach the road at Rial. Go diagonally across the road to pick up another track that stays above the buildings on the edge of the forest, bending roound to the right, then left to reach a T-junction and the cruceiro (Cruz da Rapadoira). Bear right along a track then left to head south again to go downhill, across a road and into the hamlet of San Salvador de Duio.
(5) Head past a blue-coloured building and a cruceiro, to eventually reach a stop sign at a crossroads. Head straight across and go between the houses into Hermedesuxo to reach a fork where there is a bus-shelter and a small cruceiro. Bear left towards the sea (sign-posted Fisterra) and keep on going but look out for a right-hand turn with a shell sign (sign-posted Fisterra, Escaselas. This quiet road leads through houses and Hórreos, then turn right at a shell sign to head back towards the trees. This road bends back and forth, passing houses and Hórreos and sometimes through trees to eventually reach the chapel San Martiño de Duio. Keep straight on between the houses, eventually opening out to the left for great views over the Enseada da Langosteira. Go past a green bus-shelter and down the road past a red-coloured building to the main C-552 road. Turn right and follow the road round to the left to reach the cruceiro de Baixar in San Roque.
(6) Continue along the main road, using the pavement on the right then the left, to reach a junction with a small supermarket on the left. Leave the main road by carrying straight on along the cobbled Avda. de A Coruña to reach the post office and Casa do Concello. Turn right along Rua Sta. Catalina, comming out eventually onto the Rúa Federico Ávila. Turn left into the Plaza de Santa Catalina, where the public hostel is, the main bus stop and very close to the port (also a statue dedicated to the emigrant). Follow the Rúa Real to reach the Plaza de la Constitución, where the Tourist Information Office is located.
(7) Having dropped your bags and maybe after a shower and a rest, the option is to walk to the Cape Fisterra (o get a taxi). Make your way to the Rúa Ara-Solís where a visit to the Chapel of Nosa Señora de Bo Suceso is recommended before heading south along this street to cross the main road at a zebra-crossing. Head uphill to pass the church of Santa María das Areas and all the way along the road, using the path on the left, past the monument to the pilgrim and the Cabanas water fountain. Eventually, the road bears left into the parking lot and at the end of the track is the lighthouse (past the Bar O'Refuxio). There's no need to scramble down the rocks, one look across the ocean should be enough to realize that you are at the Fin de la Tierra(A)
D : km 0 - alt. 15m - Muxia
1 : km 2.68 - alt. 103m - Xurarantes
2 : km 11.49 - alt. 67m - Frixe
3 : km 13.72 - alt. 4m - Lires
4 : km 17.25 - alt. 86m - Prado das Fontes
5 : km 22.87 - alt. 30m - San Salvador de Duio
6 : km 26.23 - alt. 21m - San Roque
7 : km 27.1 - alt. 19m - Fisterra
A : km 30.03 - alt. 114m - Cabo Finisterra
The only bars along the way are in Lires, then very little until getting to Fisterra. Therefore, it's a good idea to make sure you have enough water for the journey, even though there are a number of fountains where you can refill your bottle and some emergency supplies. If it's possible, take a detour from the path, to go down to the wonderful Rostro beach and walk along it to return later to the route. At the tourist information office, located in the Plaza de la Constitución, you can get the Fisterrana, a document similar to the Compostela – but secular and in Galician – that certifies that you have walked from Santiago to here, the End of the World. With a bit of luck, the sun will shine and the clouds will stay high above but have your wetproofs to hand, just in case.
Visorando and this author cannot be held responsible in the case of accidents or problems occuring on this walk.
Arriving in Fisterra is the perfect excuse to celebrate by eating a good seafood platter (mariscada). In the area, varieties such as the longueirón (similar to the razor, but longer), the lubricant (lobster) or the centollo (spider crab) stand out, although the most famous product would undoubtedly be percebes (barnacles). However, if there is a seafood that since time immemorial symbolizes the end of the pilgrimage to the Galician sea, that is the vieira (scallop), a bivalve mollusk related to oysters. In French they are known as coquilles de Saint-Jacques, in Latin Pecten jacobeus and in Spanish veneras (alluding to Venus, the Roman goddess of love, due to it's female vulva shape). You can eat them grilled, with foie, gratin, in omelet, in a salad, cut in the carpaccio style ... Most important, don't throw the shell away: you only need to wash it, make a hole in it and hang it from your backpack, converted into a Jacobean icon or amulet that will certify that you have reached the End of the World. Take time to enjoy the route and remember, this is not a race and plans should be flexible. Don't leave any rubbish and don't damage the environment. Say hello to fellow walkers and help anyone who needs it. Take care of yourself and make the most of the moment!
You can almost smell the sea (and almost see it) but there's still over 20 km to Muxia, although the sea comes into view long before. The route alternates sections of tarmac, without much interest, with several stretches of dirt road through forests. Looking at the profile of the stage, you can see that the descent towards the coast is not exactly easygoing, rather a continuous up-and-down, with moderate unevenness.
The first 3 km of this stage are fairly simple but then there is a bit of a climb up to Monte Aro. Our route goes up to a viewpoint to enjoy the panoramic view, but there's no need to go all the way to the top, because 500 meters before the top there is a right turn and the begining of a steep descent along a dirt track. On the descent of Mount Aro, good views over the Xallas valley can be enjoyed, including the great Fervenza reservoir.
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The GPS track and description are the property of the author.