Dolmen d'Artxuita walks

A beautiful stage in the Pyrenean foothills along country lanes.

The forty-sixth stage of the Camino de Santiago. A physically demanding stage, featuring the ascent of the Pyrenees, splendid views of the surrounding Basque Country if the weather permits, free-roaming herds, a sense of being high up, and the excitement of crossing into Spain. After a long, steep descent, you arrive at the Monastery of Roncesvalles. Given the altitude of the finish point and the cool temperatures, I preferred the monastery dormitory to camping. From Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, a whole new journey begins. The landscapes are no longer the same, nor are the pilgrims. From here on, there are ten times as many people on the paths. Very few French people and lots of Koreans, Australians, Americans, Filipinos and, of course, Spaniards. From here on, you have to speak Spanish or English or use Google Translate. But you always manage to make yourself understood and get by. That’s the magic of the Camino de Santiago.

Every autumn, the Col d'Urtzategiak is gripped by ‘blue fever’. It affects a large part of the local population. The hunters are all perched on the ridges, in the trees, watching for the migration of the wood pigeon.