At Place des Jacobins, cross Avenue de Paterborn to reach Place du Jet d'Eau. Start at the foot of the stairs by the Fontaine des Jacobins (built in 1853).
(S/E) Leave the stairs on your left and walk along the bishop's enclosure surrounding the chevet of the cathedral until you reach Rue Robert Triger. You will pass by the cathedral garden where a coin dating from the Republic, more than two centuries before Christ, was found, along with blocks of stone weighing up to 600 kg, some of which came from the cathedral itself.
Turn left onto Rue Robert Tringer and then left again onto the car park at Place du Cardinal-Grente before Place Saint-Vincent. Don't forget to turn left once you reach Rue du Château in the public garden, where you will see cannonballs fired at the town during the Hundred Years' War.
At No. 3 Place du Cardinal-Grente is the Maison du Pèlerin (Pilgrim's House). The proliferation of scallop shells on the lintel of the upper window and the roof ridge refers to the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela undertaken by its owner, Jean de Couthardy, and gives the building its name. To its left, at numbers 1 and 2 Place du Cardinal-Grente, you will see the former "Grabatoire", which housed disabled priests and has been the seat of the Bishopric of Le Mans since 1907. In the neighbourhood below the cathedral, houses owned by the bishopric housed courtesans, and No. 309 in this canonical neighbourhood has a statuette of a bishop, but as there is no water next to it, it cannot be Saint-Julien.
Opposite, above the cathedral door, you can see a red fleur-de-lis in honour of King Charles VI, who went mad in the forest of Le Mans in 1392.
Opposite the Pans-de-Gorron staircase, leaning against the corner of the cathedral, stands a menhir. This oldest relic is the survivor of a group of stones (sabalite sandstone) erected more than 7,000 years ago. Probably originating from Sargé, it is the pagan symbol of a fertility cult. So, if you want to have many children, you must make a wish while touching its navel. Standing 4.55 metres tall, the menhir was saved by Saint Julian in the 4th century, who dedicated it to the cult of virginity. During the evangelisation of Maine, it was topped with a cross, which has since disappeared. Until the 18th century, a flat stone, the remains of a dolmen known as "la pierre au lait" (the milk stone), stood a stone's throw from the menhir.
Continue straight ahead along Rue des Chanoines, where you will see Maison Saint-Paul, also known as "Maison à la Tourelle", at number 27, as well as a canonical residence, Hôtel Saint-Jacques, at number 26.
Go down the Escaliers du Tunnel to the lower level (you will be overlooking Rue Wilbur Wright) to reach Rue des Chapelains on the right. During the construction of the tunnel, the Gallic wall that surrounded the city when it was the capital of the Aulerques Cenomani was discovered on both sides. Go down Rue des Pans de Gorron. At the bottom, at the corner of the wall, the arched hole is an old bread oven.
Turn left to leave the historic city via the Poterne de Gourdaine and walk along Quai Louis Blanc, which borders the Roman wall on one side and the Sarthe river on the other. You will pass the Tour des Pans de Gorron, the Tour Madeleine and the site of the destroyed Tour Hueau (the rounded trace on the ground between two towers of the wall) and then the Tunnel. At this point, at the Tunnel postern gate, you will notice a strange feature: a staircase in front of the wall. It leads to the "Fontaine de l'Hopitau" fountain, which is supplied by the Roman aqueduct of Fontenelles de Sargé. It was once located on Place de l'Hopitau, in the centre of a neighbourhood that was demolished in the 1970s to clear the Roman wall.
(1) Facing the Tunnel, turn your head towards the Sarthe. This bridge and the "X" bridge next to it were destroyed in the early hours of 8 August 1944 by the German army fleeing during the Liberation of Le Mans. The blast shattered the stained-glass windows of the Église du Pré (first a monastery for men, then the Abbey of Saint-Julien-du-Pré, the supposed site of the tomb of Saint Julien,the first bishop of Le Mans), with the exception of the 15th-century window donated by Isabeau d'Hauteville, Abbess of Le Pré. She is depicted kneeling before Saint Julien, who is placing his hand on her shoulder while performing the miracle of the fountain. Saint Julien is said to have evangelised the city in the 4th century by striking the ground with a stick and causing a spring to gush forth at the Place de l'Éperon.
Once you have crossed Rue Wilbur Wright, continue straight ahead until you reach the Escalier de la Grande Poterne staircase on your left. As you pass by, you will notice the "trous de boulins" (holes in which the scaffolding for the construction of the enclosure was supported), the Tour de Tucé, the Tour des Ardents followed by the Maison du Mouton and the arcades of an old medieval barn.
Climb the Grande Poterne staircase. At the top, turn right onto Rue de la Verrerie and climb the Petite Poterne staircase on your left. At the top of the staircase, facing you, a few centimetres above the ground, you will see a small cast iron coat of arms bearing numbers. This is the height above sea level. You will also find the Hôtel d'Argouges. Turn right and walk up Rue Saint-Pavin de la Cité to reach Grande Rue.
At the intersection, on your right, at No. 97 Grande Rue, there is a sundial installed by Claude Chappe on the wall of the Hôtel Clairaunay. Further on, at No. 105, is the Legras du Luart mansion.
Walk down Grande Rue for a few metres to the Hôtel de Nepveu de Rouillon, an 18th-century residence (1768) that is very classic for its time, featuring a staircase in the same style and now home to the Compagnons du Devoir. On the left, take Rue Godart and pass the wooden gatehouse. Before the staircase, turn left into Rue Saint-Flaceau, where the locks are shaped like hearts. Walk along the Fossés Saint-Pierre enclosure, which leads to the Saint-Pierre-la-Cour Collegiate Church.
(2) You will come out onto Place Saint-Pierre, where you will find Le Mans Town Hall, built on the foundations of the former Palace of the Counts of Maine. Above the large gate is the city's coat of arms: a key, four candlesticks and three fleurs-de-lis. Reach Avenue de Rostov-sur-le-Don via the Escalier des Ponts-Neufs staircase on your right. On your left, below, you will see a statue by Claude Ribot depicting Zeus abducting Leda.
Turn left and walk up Rue de la Comédie to Place du Hallai. If you turn around, you will see a blocked-up window on the wall of the former Palace of the Counts of Maine. Similarly, at No. 7 Place du Hallai, you will see the Maison du Pilier aux Lumières. Collapsed at the beginning of the Second World War, it was rebuilt identically by the Guilbert couple. Cross Place du Hallai and walk up the small Rue du Pilier Rouge. This is where the Maison du Pilier Rouge stands opposite the Maison du Pilier Vert.
(3) Turn left and continue along Grande Rue, where you will notice numerous raised stones at the foot of some houses. These were used to protect the facades of houses from passing carts. At No. 69 Grande Rue, only the half-timbered facade remains, as the dilapidated house has been demolished.
You will recognise the house of Adam and Eve, also known as the Astrologer's House, between numbers 69 and 75, by the bas-relief above the small entrance door, where the central medallion depicts Eve offering Adam an apple on the end of her stick (in fact, it is Bacchus and Ariadne). Built in 1520, the house is famous for having been the residence of Jean de l'Épine, physician to the Queen of Navarre.
At the intersection of Grande Rue and Rue Saint-Honoré is the Maison du Pilier aux Clefs. Opposite it is the narrow passageway of the Cour d'Assé, which leads to Rue Saint-Pavin de la Cité.
At the end of Rue Saint-Pavin de la Cité, you will see the suspended house on your right, immortalised by Robert Doisneau with a little girl and her big teddy bear in the foreground. Turn left and go down Rue du Bouquet. Opposite you is the gate of the Hôtel de Vaux, where in the film "Cyrano de Bergerac", the character is the victim of an accident that costs him his life. Next to the Hôtel de Vaux, the Hôtel Denisot was home to the artist Nicolas Denisot, a friend of Ronsard.
Continue your walk to the right on Rue de Vaux and you will find the Escalier de la Pierre de Tucé on your right. Before thefirst step of this staircase, in front of which you are passing, you will see a large stone on the ground that was used to mark the boundaries of ancient fiefdoms in the Middle Ages. Then climb the Escalier du Tunnel.
(3) Pass Square Dubois above the Tunnel and continue along Rue de la Reine Bérangère to Place Saint-Michel. As you pass, admire: nos. 18-20 (Maison des Deux Amis) and nos. 7-9-11 (Musée de la Reine Bérengère, consisting of the Maison du Drapier, the Maison de l'Avé-Maria and the Maison de la Reine Bérengère).
Once you reach Place Saint-Michel, admire No. 1, the Maison de Scarron, whose wife, Mme de Maintenon, is known for having been the mistress and then wife of Louis XIV.
Then enter the cathedral through the royal porch, so called because Christ stands there in majesty. It was built on the south side in line with the Grande Rue (Rue de la Reine Bérengère is an extension of the Grande Rue), the backbone of the old town, during the reconstruction work carried out after the fire of 1134 because its axis was perpendicular to the old town. Until the 12th century, the entrance was through the large gate on the west façade, opposite the bishop's palace. Before entering through this large side door, don't forget to take a look at the sculpture above the door, which depicts a Norman horseman. The last figure in the outer row on your right, a bearded man seated on a kind of throne, is thought to be Geoffrey Plantagenet.
Walk around the cathedral, following the ambulatory on the left. At the transept, on the left, stands the statue of Saint Cecilia, patron saint of musicians, a masterpiece of Le Mans terracotta. When you are facing the old grabatorium, at the small door on the right, you will see the Saint Julian stained glass window which, according to legend, caused water to gush forth in the city during a great famine. Speaking of stained glass windows, the Ascension window is the oldest stained glass window in its original cathedral. Similarly, in the middle of the stained glass window dedicated to Joan of Arc, the flag bearer of the 117th Infantry Regiment is depicted. This is Maxime, the son of Albert Échivard, who died during theFirst World War. He appears in a set of five stained glass windows that he created with Henry Morin and Julien Chappée. In the chapel known as the "Chapel of the Musician Angels", 47 angels are painted under the vaulted ceiling.
End the route by returning to the Jet d'Eau (S/E).