In search of the lost paths of the Haute Ardèche

(Start/End) Set off from the old market square in Saint-Pierre-de-Colombier (car park), where the hiking information point is located. Head south towards Juvinas. At the first junction, turn right (Courtiol Bas), continuing southwards; pass between the houses (wooden signpost marked ‘Le Ranc’) to reach the Courtiol cattle ford over the Libonès stream (see the section ‘Sights along the route’).

(1) Cross the bridge, follow the left bank of the stream for about twenty metres, then turn left to cross the watercourse via two large flat stones and walk along the meadows between the upper low wall on the left and the lower low wall on the right. Turn left onto a paved slanting street leading up to Les Terrons. Once you reach the tarmac road, turn right onto a path, also terraced, between an upper low wall and one below it. Pass a small barn and continue more or less straight on through the chestnut grove. When you reach the Chemin de Gardelle (tarmac), carry on straight ahead to join the Route du Ranc.

(2) Follow the Route du Ranc until you can see the first hairpin bend, which you cut across by turning left onto an uphill path. Cross the back of the hairpin bend and continue straight ahead along the path until you rejoin the Route du Ranc. Follow it to the right until you reach the end of the hamlet.

(3) Then take the path on the right, which descends slightly before continuing on roughly level ground. After the viewpoint overlooking the Pont de Veyrières dam, carry on until you reach the tarmac road.

(4) Carry on to the left along the Route de Veyrières until you reach a junction. Turn left, cut across the first hairpin bend via a path on the left, then the second by taking a path straight ahead.

(5) About 50 metres past Barricaud, take the path that climbs diagonally to the left. Follow this path to La Combe, then continue along the tarmac road to the Champs d’Aubignas lodge. Climb a few small hairpin bends to the left of the lodge, then go over the top and join the Col des Champs path, heading north. You’ll reach a wide-open area (a well-maintained orchard).

(6) After the orchard, cross the low wall that borders it and marks the pass. Do not take the track on the ridge furthest to the right. Descend about ten metres and look for tracks on the right without going down too quickly, keeping more or less level. You will then find a clearer track, and a little further down, a wide agricultural access track (chestnut trees). Follow this, keeping to the right. The descent becomes steeper, and you’ll reach the tarmac road.

(7) Keep to the left, leaving the Col de Juvinas path on your right. Follow the tarmac road, keep left at the junction with the D343, and walk along the upper edge of the hamlet of Libonès. Between the next junction (leading to the bottom of the hamlet) and the bridge over the stream, turn left onto the paved slanting street which runs alongside the stream, crosses it and joins the tarmac road. Follow this road, cut left onto a footpath before the next junction, then continue straight ahead to cut across the hairpin bend on the left. Continue down the road to the large farm building at the next hairpin bend.

(8) Pass to the right of the farm building, ignore the path leading uphill to the right towards Cros du Libonès, and turn left down towards the stream. You will then find the roughly level path leading to Les Terrisses (recent yellow and white markings). After a while, the markings become somewhat unclear (apart from one or two cairns); there is a fairly steep descent through the ferns, eventually joining a wider path above a farm building and leading to a hairpin bend at a recently created access point to Les Terrisses.

(9) Follow the Chemin des Terrisses downhill, then continue along its extension to Le Courtiol to reach the car park (S/E).

In wet weather or after heavy rain, the Terrons paved slanting street can turn into a stream, so it is better to take the Route de Juvinas, then take the signposted turn-off towards Les Terrons.

An alternative route is to take the relatively quiet road to Le Ranc.

At the start of the route, you may find markers for the Compostela trail (linking Aubenas to Le Puy), which runs in the opposite direction. You should not follow this trail after Veyrières.

There are no markings for crossing the Col des Champs and beginning the descent. Bring this description, an IGN map and a GPS, and observe the terrain carefully.

(S/E) The old market square was a bustling place for many years, particularly during the cherry season, when farmers would bring their produce to the traders. Until the mid-1980s, one could also witness the distillation process taking place there.

(1) The Courtiol water channel bridge is a curiosity. It remained in use until very recently. A little further on, two large stones allow you to cross the leat. I once accompanied some donkeys who, although they crossed the bridge, refused to cross the flowing water of the leat.

(2) After Gardelle, at the hairpin bend, there is a view of the terraces of Auluyères. All along the route, there are views of the Ardèche countryside, which is gradually being reclaimed by the forest, apart from a few attempts to restore the chestnut grove.

(3) Halfway between Le Ranc and Veyrière, the curious rocky viewpoint overlooking the dam almost evokes a prehistoric sacred site, but that is purely my own speculation… All along the path, on the slopes above and below, one can see the devastation wrought by the box tree moth.

As everywhere in the Ardèche, take time to admire the beautiful old buildings (Le Ranc, La Combe, Aubignas, …) and the landscapes.