In search of the lost paths of the Haute Ardèche

(S/E) Start from the old market square in Saint-Pierre-de-Colombier (car park) where you will find the hiking information point. Head south towards Juvinas. At the first crossroads, turn right (Courtiol Bas), continuing south, pass between the houses (wooden signpost "Le Ranc") to reach the Courtiol weir bridge over the Libonès stream (see the section "Things to see during the hike").

(1) Cross the bridge, follow the left bank of the stream for about 20 metres, then turn left to cross the water channel over two large flat stones and walk along the meadows between the upper wall on the left and the lower wall on the right. Turn left onto a paved slanting street that climbs up to Les Terrons. When you reach the tarmac road, turn right onto a path that also runs along a terrace between an upper wall and a lower wall. Pass a small barn and continue almost straight ahead into the chestnut grove. When you reach Chemin de Gardelle (tarmac road), continue straight ahead to climb up to Route du Ranc.

(2) Follow the Route du Ranc until you see the first hairpin bend, which you cut by turning left onto an uphill path. Cross the hairpin bend and continue straight ahead along the path until you rejoin the Route du Ranc. Continue along it on the right until you reach the end of the hamlet.

(3) Then take the path on the right which descends slightly and then continues more or less level. After the viewpoint over the Pont de Veyrières dam, continue to the tarmac road.

(4) Continue left on the Veyrières road until you reach a crossroads. Turn left, cut across the first hairpin bend via a path on the left, then the second by taking a path opposite.

(5) About 50 metres after Barricaud, take the path that climbs diagonally to the left. Follow this path to La Combe, then continue on the tarmac road to the Champs d'Aubignas lodge. Climb a few small hairpin bends to the left of the lodge, then pass above it and join the Col des Champs path, heading north. You will arrive at a clear area (maintained orchard).

(6) After the orchard, cross the low wall that borders it and marks the pass. Do not take the track on the far right of the ridge. Descend about ten metres and look for tracks on the right without descending too quickly, staying at a similar level. Then find a clearer track and, a little further down, a wide agricultural access path (chestnut trees). Follow it, keeping to the right. The descent becomes steeper and you will come to the tarmac road.

(7) Keep to the left, leaving the Col de Juvinas path on your right. Follow the tarmac road, keep to the left at the junction with the D343, and walk along the top of the hamlet of Libonès. Between the next junction (access to the bottom of the hamlet) and the bridge over the stream, take the paved slanting street on the left that runs alongside the stream, crosses it and joins the tarmac road. Follow this road, cut left onto a path before another junction, then continue straight ahead to cut across the hairpin bend on the left. Continue down the road to the large farm building at the next hairpin bend.

(8) Pass to the right of the farm building, leave the path that climbs to the right at Cros du Libonès and turn left downhill towards the stream. You will then find the fairly level path that leads to Les Terrisses (recent yellow and white markings). After a while, the markings become somewhat unclear (apart from one or two cairns), and there is a fairly steep descent through the ferns to finally reach a wider path above a farm building and arrive at a hairpin bend with a recently created access to Les Terrisses.

(9) Follow the Terrisses path downhill, continue along the extension to Le Courtiol to reach the car park (S/E).

In wet weather or after heavy rain, the Terrons paved slanting street can turn into a stream, so it is better to take the Route de Juvinas, then take the signposted turn-off towards Les Terrons.

An alternative route is to take the relatively quiet road to Le Ranc.

At the start of the route, you may find markers for the Compostela trail (linking Aubenas to Le Puy), which runs in the opposite direction. You should not follow this trail after Veyrières.

There are no markings for crossing the Col des Champs and beginning the descent. Bring this description, an IGN map and a GPS, and observe the terrain carefully.

(S/E) The old market square was long a lively place, especially during cherry season, when farmers brought their produce to the merchants. Until the mid-1980s, you could also watch the distillation process there.

(1) The Courtiol watermill bridge is a curiosity. It remained in operation until very recently. A little further on, two large stones allow you to cross the leat. I accompanied some donkeys which, although they crossed the bridge, never wanted to cross the running water of the leat.

(2) After Gardelle, at the hairpin bend, there is a view of the terraces of Auluyères. All along the route, there are views of the Ardèche landscape, which is being invaded by the forest, except for a few attempts to renovate the chestnut grove.

(3) Halfway between Le Ranc and Veyrière, the curious rocky viewpoint overlooking the dam is almost reminiscent of a prehistoric sacred site, but that's just my speculation... All along the trail, on the slope above and below, you can see the ravages of the box tree moth.

As everywhere in Ardèche, admire the beautiful old buildings (Le Ranc, La Combe, Aubignas, etc.) and the landscapes.