Murals in Puisaye – Sainte-Anne, Saint-Pierre and Saint-Fiacre

The walk starts from the car park at Place de la République in Saint-Fargeau (other car parks are available nearby).
(S/E) With your keys in hand (see ‘Practical Information’ section), with your back to the Tourist Office, head straight ahead along Rue Michel Lepelletier. Cross the Ru du Bourdon and you’ll reach the church.
Turn into the alley on the right, keeping the church on your left. When you reach the road, turn right for a few metres and slip into Rue du Bourgneuf. At the junction with Rue Raymond Vernay, turn right onto the marked path (fairly wide pavement), taking care to follow the flow of pedestrians.

(1) On the bend, let the road continue to the left and head towards Treigny (D185). Follow this road to reach the Bourdon reservoir dam.

(2) Head left onto the path that runs alongside the lake on the right and the holiday camp on the left. At the first junction, turn left. At the top, turn right. Pass in front of the Grilles farm. Ignore the first road on the left and the second on the right.

(3) After the leisure centre and the campsite, continue along the small road separating the old lake from the new one. At the first junction, turn left and do the same at the next one. Walk alongside the fences of two parks on either side of this road.

(4) Head down the right-hand track along the fence on your right. Pass through Jendin under the canopy of trees lining this track. Leave Les Belles Fontaines on your left to reach the junction with the D66.

(5) Go straight on and head down towards Moutiers-en-Puisaye. At the ‘Stop’ sign, turn right, then left at the next junction.

(6) After visiting this church, which is open to the public during the day, turn left onto Rue de la Forge and follow it to the next crossroads. At the stop sign, turn right. Cross the bridge over the Loing. At the junction with the D85, first turn right then left to cross the railway line and head towards the Étang de Moutiers (Les Boulmiers).

(7) As you leave the bridge separating the River Nézeau and the lake on your left, veer to the right. Pass through Les Boulmiers and reach a four-way junction.

(8) Turn left. Pass through Les Griffons, Les Moreaux and Tue Chien des Boues to reach the village of Ronchères.

(9) Stop at the church. After resuming the route, turn into the first street on the left. Pass through Les Rameaux. At the next junction, turn right, ignoring the turnings leading to the farms and the recycling centre.

(10) At the crossroads, turn right and continue along this road. Reach the D965. Cross the road and head left towards Saint-Fargeau.

(11) Turn left into Rue de la Grande Demoiselle. At the ‘Stop’ sign, turn left onto Avenue de la Puisaye until you reach the cemetery on the left. Walk up Rue Robert Corbin. Enter the cemetery and head towards the Sainte-Anne Chapel.

(12) After your visit, turn back to reach the avenue below. Turn right, then after about 150 metres, take the first street on the left (Rue Porte Marlotte). Then take the first right (Rue des Écoles). Cross the side street and head for a car park on the right near the town hall. At the end, turn left, cross the Bourdon stream and you will come out at the foot of the Tourist Office (S/E).
Return the keys to the Tourist Office.

It is advisable to allow a full day for this route and a visit to the three sites.
The keys to the Sainte-Anne Chapel in the Saint-Fargeau cemetery and the church in Ronchères (Saint-Fiacre) can be collected at the start from the Tourist Office at 3, Place de la République in Saint-Fargeau (opening and closing times). Check with the Tourist Office before setting off on 33 (0)3 86 74 10 07 to enquire about visiting the sites and to book. Do not forget to return the keys to the Tourist Office on your return and to collect your ID.
Moutiers: the church is regularly open.

Water points: plenty of springs along the route, but none with drinking water.
A camera is highly recommended.

This walk requires strict adherence to the Highway Code. Please remain extremely vigilant when crossing railway tracks. Whether approaching from the right or the left, the tourist train has right of way. Please do not hesitate to dismount for your own safety when crossing these tracks.

For a sneak preview of your journey: The murals of Puisaye.

(6) Saint-Pierre Church in Moutiers-en-Puisaye: one of the largest collections of murals, restored at the end of the 20th century. Magnificent! These murals in the nave, choir and side chapels depict scenes from the life of Christ, the Book of Genesis and the life of Saint John the Baptist.

Shortly after (6), near the bridge over the Loing, on the left-hand side, there is an old reed bed.

(8) Ronchères Church: The oldest part of the church: the present choir dates from the 12th century.
The murals are listed as a ‘Historic Monument’. Those in the choir are by the painter Louis Enaut and date from 1679. They have been named “Le Paradis de la Puisaye” as they depict 28 saints arranged around the monogram of Christ and the four Evangelists, recognisable by their attributes: Saint Matthew and the angel, Saint Mark and the lion, Saint Luke and the ox, Saint John and the eagle.
Above the nave, an ancient vault also features paintings from 1537. Here one discovers a fabulous decoration, as imagined during the Renaissance. Ronchères thus bears witness to the revival of the art of polychrome decoration in Burgundy during the 16th century.
Ronchères dates back to 1220, when it was known as ‘Ronchéria’; the village lies at the source of the Saint-Fiacre stream, at the junction of two very ancient roads.

(12) The 16th-century Sainte-Anne Chapel, perched at the top of the village cemetery, is a remarkable building with its barrel-vaulted oak ceiling and its murals from the same period. These paintings have never been covered and their colours are vibrant. One can see the ochre typical of the Puisaye region. They may well be the work of the painter Jacques Thomas, who is also said to have worked on the choir of the parish church.
These paintings were listed on 6 November 1909, and the chapel on 12 December 1910. The paintings depict the following themes:
The Tale of the Three Dead and the Three Living
This painting is particularly well preserved. This depiction can be found in other churches in the Puisaye region, such as La Ferté Loupière, alongside the Dance of Death. The Tale of the Three Dead and the Three Living depicts three corpses addressing three carefree horsemen, richly attired and often depicted as hunters. It is a parable warning the living of their inevitable decay in the not-too-distant future.

The Passion of Christ
Each panel in this scene offers a rich and skilful composition; the colour palette is varied and the quality of the execution is striking. As for the setting, the landscape is stylised, with a misty sky in the background. Tufts of grass and flowers follow one another on the ground… As for the figures, it is interesting to note the delicate features of Christ, the apostles and the women, in contrast to the crude poses of the executioners and the rustic appearance of the soldiers. The ancient-style robes of Christ and the apostles stand in contrast to the medieval costumes of the other figures, reflecting the different social classes.

The Genealogy of the Virgin
It is situated to the right of the altar. Not all the figures can be identified, but we can make out the following names: Mary, Joachim, Anne.