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The Kerlingarfjöll Highland Base is located on the F347, 10 km from the F35 road. Served by a regular daily bus service (610) between Reykjavik and Akureyri, the F35 is unpaved and stony. It is only passable by 4x4 vehicles, as is the F347, which also has two fords to cross. In Iceland, it is best to use 4x4 buses, as there are not many roads suitable for cars, and rental cars are not insured for underbody damage or tyres.
Please inform the driver in advance of the stop at the F35/F347 junction (sign).
For the return journey, make sure you have the timetable, which is accurate to within 15 minutes.
From the junction to the Kerlingarfjöll campsite, 10 km away and almost flat (140 m elevation gain), there is no shuttle bus, so you will have to walk or hitchhike if you can.
At 3.8 km from the crossroads, take a break at the beautiful Gýgjarfoss waterfall on the edge of the F347.
(S/E) From the Kerlingarfjöll campsite, follow the Ásgarðsá river that runs alongside the campsite. At the footbridge, cross to the other side and follow the path towards the hot springs of Hveradalir: there are signs and posts along the way. Cross a stream, climb up the ridge of a hill and you will come to a fork.
(1) Leave the trail on your left towards the natural pool at Borholan í Kellingafjöllum. Continue straight ahead for a good kilometre until you reach a junction.
(2) Ignore the path on the right towards Kerlingartindur. Continue climbing straight ahead (south) and, after 1.5 km, you will reach a fork.
(3) Do not take the path on the right, which goes around Mount Mænir. Turn left (southeast) towards Hveradalir. Heading south again, climb up the snow-covered bottom of a small valley. Walk almost level on the snowfield on a shoulder of the eastern flank of Mount Mænir. You will reach an intersection marked with a sign, which is the start of the Hveradalir loop.
(4) Take the ascending path on the right; you will return via the path on the left. You will reach another intersection, the highest point of the route (altitude 1,070 m), which overlooks a valley whose palette of yellow, red, orange and black contrasts with the fluorescent green of the moss and the white of the snowfields. Numerous sulphurous fumaroles give this scene a primeval feel, creating a striking spectacle.
(5) Leave the path opposite that leads to the summit of Mount Mænir. On the left, descend carefully down a muddy and slippery path. Stay on the path, away from the mud and hot runoff. In the basin, cross the bubbling streams to reach an intersection.
(6) Leave the trail on the right, looping back to the point (3). Cross the Ásgarðsá river and reach a new intersection.
(7) Leave the trail on the right, which joins the Hveradalir car park, for closer access by 4x4. Keep left, cross the Ásgarðsá river again, and head north-west to complete the loop.
(4) Retrace your steps, following the same route as on the way there.
(1) Turn right and follow the Ásgarðsá river as it flows through a steep-sided valley. After 1.2 km, you will come to a stone basin, Borholan í Kellingafjöllum, where you can warm up by bathing in the hot, sulphurous waters of the river. Remember to bring a towel to dry yourself off.
(8) Retrace your steps and return to the Kerlingarfjöll Base (S/E).
