Le Casque du Marboré via the normal route

Want to climb one of the legendary "3000" peaks of the Cirque de Gavarnie with breathtaking views? The Casque du Marboré could be your next goal! The entire route offers magnificent views of the surrounding mountains: Vignemale, Néouvielle, Mont Perdu, Canyon d'Ordesa. However, it is important to bear in mind that part of this hike takes place in a high mountain environment, with sometimes unstable scree and passages where you will need to use your hands.

Details

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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 13.47 km
  • ◔
    Average duration: 6h 45 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Difficult

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 1,018 m
  • ↘
    Descent: - 1,013 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 3,004 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 2,206 m

Photos

Description of the walk

Park in the Col des Tentes car park.

(S/E) Take the old tarmac road south-west towards Port de Boucharo.

(1) Located on the border, this wide pass offers a breathtaking view of the Vignemale and Balaïtous mountains. Continue east-southeast on the well-marked trail towards Col des Sarradets. This trail runs along the north face of Taillon but climbs only slightly for 30 minutes before turning south and winding up to Col des Sarradets.

Only the crossing of the stream below the Taillon glacier requires caution to avoid slipping (follow the red arrows on the rocks that indicate the crossing). A few switchbacks then lead up to the pass, from where the Refuge des Sarradets, located about 150m further on, suddenly comes into view. Head towards it.

(2) From the refuge, our objective (the Casque) is clearly visible to the left of the Brèche de Roland, adorned with its large summit cairn. Follow the well-marked trail south towards the Brèche de Roland. The scree is quite crumbly, so be careful not to slip.

You will reach a ledge, from which you will have a better view of the breach. You will then need to cross a 50m horizontal snowfield (exit made at the end of August), before tackling the final slope up to the breach. Some sections require the use of your hands about 30 metres before the breach.

(3) The view opens up to the south and Spain, with Ordesa National Park looming straight ahead in a very mineral landscape, both lunar and Martian...

To head towards Le Casque from La Brèche, follow the cliff directly to the left to find the path leading to Pas des Isards. Be careful not to descend too far and stray too far from the cliff (as we did), as you will have to climb 50 metres back up the scree to rejoin the path. Reach Pas des Isards.

(4) This tricky passage is equipped with a 30-metre chain handrail. It may impress the less experienced, but it is by no means technically difficult. In the rain (as in our case), the handholds can still be slippery, so great care is required. After that, the path becomes less visible, but cairns make it easier to find your way to the Col des Isards.

(5) It is important to follow the cairns in this rocky chaos and not to miss the path on the left at the fork, which heads north towards Le Casque. The path continuing to the right leads to Pic du Marboré and, further on, Mont Perdu. You will arrive at a fork that marks the start of the normal route to Le Casque.

(6) The path climbs quite steeply northwards through a funnel of scree and snowfields that persist late into the season. It goes around a rocky outcrop before heading westwards above it. You will then reach the foot of the enormous scree slope characteristic of this face of the Casque. From there, several cairn-marked trails lead in different directions, but all lead to the summit. We followed the one on the far right to climb up to the rocky ridge.

A fairly slippery slab allows you to bypass this bar on the right and climb up to the ledge overlooking the enormous scree. Taking this ledge, you reach the last few metres, which require the use of your hands for some easy climbing. Here too, scattered cairns show that several routes are possible. The route finally leads to the summit of the Casque.

The summit is a vast plateau with bivouac sites and a large cairn. The panorama is magnificent, stretching from Mont Perdu in the east to Balaïtous in the west, overlooking the Cirque de Gavarnie.

(7) The descent begins along the same route for the first few metres, but it is possible to stay on the ridge and walk along the scree on the right. You will rejoin the ascent path a few minutes later, above a rocky outcrop. Then follow the ascent route back to the car park (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : km 0 - alt. 2,208 m - Col des Tentes car park - Col de Tentes
  2. 1 : km 1.6 - alt. 2,266 m - Port de Boucharo
  3. 2 : km 4.65 - alt. 2,582 m - Refuge des Sarradets
  4. 3 : km 5.3 - alt. 2,793 m - Brèche de Roland
  5. 4 : km 5.83 - alt. 2,730 m - Pas des Isards
  6. 5 : km 6.21 - alt. 2,798 m - Col des Isards
  7. 6 : km 6.42 - alt. 2,841 m - Fourche, start of the normal route up Casque
  8. 7 : km 6.74 - alt. 3,004 m - Casque du Marboré
  9. S/E : km 13.47 - alt. 2,208 m - Col de Tentes car park - Col de Tentes

Notes

  • Access to this summit overlooking the famous Brèche de Roland does not present any major technical difficulties (in the absence of snow), apart from the Pas des Isards and a rocky barrier to cross just below the summit.
  • Water

Water is quite scarce along the route, but it is possible to fill up under the Taillon glacier (stream) and at the Refuge des Sarradets (outdoor tap).

  • Shelter/bivouac

Information: Refuge des Sarradets.
Please note that the refuge is closed until May 2018 for renovation work.
Just below the refuge, there are around ten bivouac sites.
(3) Brèche de Roland: there are about five or six bivouac sites under the cliff on the Spanish side, to the right when arriving from the French side (follow the wall towards Taillon).
Sommet du Casque: a few stone pitches allow you to watch the sunset/sunrise from the large plateau at the summit!

  • Equipment

Be sure to check the snow conditions, as snow could make this climb much more difficult and require the use of ice axes and crampons.

This route passes through a protected area, which may be subject to special regulations:

Worth a visit

  • Off-trail alternative for the return (+ 1h30, 500m descent and 300m ascent)

If you have the time and the energy, you can vary the route by returning to the Col des Tentes via the Soldats hut. After descending from the Col des Sarradets and crossing the stream, a sign at a fork in the path indicates "Gavarnie 2h". Take this route and follow the path that crosses the stream again to the right, passing under the Pic des Sarradets. The path then winds and descends quite steeply.
There are two options:

  1. Leave the trail at point 1976 on the IGN map and head for the hut (shorter): keep the Soldats hut as your goal and return to it by crossing two streams and cutting straight across rocky outcrops and ledges.
  2. Follow the path to the Gave des Tourettes (longer): descend the path to the fork at the stream (point 1873 on the IGN map), which allows you to climb back up to the hut via the path.

About 50m after passing the hut on the way up, leave the path and turn right onto the steep grassy slope along a stream, and climb steeply through the very steep gispet (grass) to the Col des Tentes.
Allow about 50 minutes from the fork below the Col des Sarradets to the Soldats hut, then 30-40 minutes to climb up to the Col des Tentes from the hut.

Reviews and comments

4.6 / 5
Based on 8 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.9 / 5
Ease of following the route
4.4 / 5
Route interest
4.6 / 5
Laurent Pagès
Laurent Pagès

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 11, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Hello,
I had consulted your website before doing the Col de Tentes-Casque round trip via the Sarradets (de la Brèche) refuge, but I was already more or less familiar with the area and had also consulted the guidebook at https://www.topopyrenees.com/rando/rando.... However, this was only for reference purposes, and the only information that was useful to me was to head from the Col des Isards towards the weak point between Casque and Tour, then turn west to go around Casque from the south and reach its summit.
For your information, my Garmin Fenix 3HR watch, although in good condition, worked intermittently, particularly at Pas des Isards and then between Tour and Casque...
It was a great outing. My wife and I were alone at the summit around midday, and we met a group of five or six people as we were descending to have lunch at the Col des Isards.
Best regards,

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Lmarco
Lmarco

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 28, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Hello,
I did this hike on Saturday 12 August with the description and GPS track.
Everything went very well.
At the summit, there were exactly eight people between 12:00 and 1:00 p.m.

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SAPENE
SAPENE
• Edited:

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 25, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

;

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Netheb
Netheb
• Edited:

Overall rating : 3.7 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 05, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★☆☆ Average
Very busy route : No

Hike done in early August, on the way back from Pic du Taillon (we were feeling good ). As it was relatively late (1 p.m.), we didn't see many people once we passed Brèche de Roland, so we were able to enjoy the beautiful view of Pas des Isards! This passage is really not to be feared by people prone to vertigo as there is plenty of room for your feet, and the "void" next to it is not that steep. No snowfields in sight.
However, we were very disappointed because we had to turn back 20-30 metres from the summit! We couldn't find the path to the summit. We tried several (many people must have been looking for it like us, as there were tracks), but none of them seemed safe (no problem for using our hands, but the climbing seemed too dangerous). There were no reliable markings. In short, if there had been a fresh coat of paint, we would have persisted , so we were glad we had done the Taillon so we wouldn't be left unsatisfied ^^ Oh well!

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patquill
patquill

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 11, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A very beautiful hike, but the summit has to be earned. There are two large snowfields to cross at this time of year (each about 200 metres long), with snow softened by the sun. For the rest, everything you need to know is in the very detailed description.
A few people, but not too many.

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Michel_R007
Michel_R007

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 12, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A beautiful high-mountain hike with a few sections requiring all fours
that add to the atmosphere. On 12 September 2020, the weather was beautiful and the mountain was dry (too dry?),
Not a trace of snow except on the north side of the Brèche, but that was nothing compared to what I experienced
25 years ago.

Regarding the guidebook, just a small note about "a slippery slab that allows you to bypass this barrier...",
we preferred to pass to the left (facing the summit) of this section, following vaguely marked tracks
in the scree, as the slab in question was covered with gravel, making it very slippery (bring a broom if you insist on going there). Going around to the left is easier. On the descent, the route seems obvious.

Conclusion: the Marboré peak is a beautiful 3,000-metre peak that is well worth the effort!

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lanusse-cazale georges
lanusse-cazale georges

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 26, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : Yes

It's normal for there to be people around (it's beautiful, it's summer...)

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robin.dorval
robin.dorval

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Nov 01, 2017
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : Not used / Not applicable
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

A beautiful hike, but one that is not without technical challenges... We did it on 1 November, starting from La Brêche, where we had spent the night camping in a cave (on the Spanish side, to the right of La Brêche when arriving from France, accessible via a beautiful vertical fault), under a magnificent blue sky!
The start, with the Pas des Isards, quickly sets the tone! After the pass, do not attempt to descend towards the Col des Isards, but follow the foot of the cliff!!! There is a short path at its base, which saves you a lot of effort on the scree!

The ascent of the Casque is over scree, with a beautiful little chasm at the base that you need to be wary of (especially with the small snowfields present at this time of year).
The end of the climb is very nice. You can either take the small path that reaches the summit from the left or cut across directly with a few nice little climbing steps! A beautiful walk! On the descent, as usual, beware of rolling stones and don't gather moss!

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