Larramendi walks

The forty-sixth stage of the Camino de Santiago. A physically demanding stage, featuring the ascent of the Pyrenees, splendid views of the surrounding Basque Country if the weather permits, free-roaming herds, a sense of being high up, and the excitement of crossing into Spain. After a long, steep descent, you arrive at the Monastery of Roncesvalles. Given the altitude of the finish point and the cool temperatures, I preferred the monastery dormitory to camping. From Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, a whole new journey begins. The landscapes are no longer the same, nor are the pilgrims. From here on, there are ten times as many people on the paths. Very few French people and lots of Koreans, Australians, Americans, Filipinos and, of course, Spaniards. From here on, you have to speak Spanish or English or use Google Translate. But you always manage to make yourself understood and get by. That’s the magic of the Camino de Santiago.

A beautiful stage in the Pyrenean foothills along country lanes.

Every autumn, the Col d'Urtzategiak is gripped by ‘blue fever’. It affects a large part of the local population. The hunters are all perched on the ridges, in the trees, watching for the migration of the wood pigeon.

Forty-fifth stage of the Camino de Santiago. This stage is the last of the French section. The ever-changing landscapes of the Basque Country, each more wonderful than the last, will leave you with unforgettable memories. By the time you arrive in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, you will have already covered approximately 1,150 kilometres in 45 days of walking, with 12,750 metres of elevation gain. Something to be proud of! Remember to visit the pilgrims’ reception office with your pilgrim’s passport to have your visit to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port certified, before crossing the Pyrenees, and to pick up useful information for your journey through Spain. Make the most of a rest day to recharge your batteries and enjoy the town, which is listed among the Most Beautiful Villages of France thanks to its typical and well-preserved Basque architecture, its green landscapes opening out onto the Pyrenees, and the expertise of its producers and craftspeople.