Étang des Truites and Étang du Diable

This hike in the Tabe Massif leads to the Étang des Truites and then the Étang du Diable, both nestled beneath the Pic de Soularac and the Pic de Saint-Barthélemy, which they form part of the ascent routes for. The passage through the old talc quarries of La Porteille and Fangas adds a moving historical touch. Finally, on the way back, the Étang de Moulzoune offers a peaceful break in a magnificent setting.

Details

16050364
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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 14.74 km
  • ◔
    Average duration: 6h 35 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Difficult

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 833 m
  • ↘
    Descent: - 827 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 1,971 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 1,295 m

Photos

Description of the walk

Follow the D909 towards Monts d'Olmes, passing Montferrier by about 4 km. Leave the road and turn left onto the well-marked Route Forestière de la Mine, which leads to the car park at Étang de Moulzoune.

YellowPR® markings

(S/E) Head towards the large information panel about the Montagne de Tabe and continue along the forest road to the end.

(1) Ignore a wide path on the left and stay on the forest road, which becomes significantly steeper before leaving the woods and opening out onto pastureland. Continue climbing steadily to the Taula plateau (misspelled on the IGN map), where herds of cattle are often present.

(2) Follow the wide track that runs alongside a fence on your left.

(3) At a fork (marker post on the ground in October 2021), leave the numerous herd tracks leading to the Cabane de la Taula on your left and continue along the path, which makes a long traverse along the hillside. Go around a rocky outcrop (elevation 1678) on the right and follow a narrower path that leads to the old talc quarry at La Porteille.

In the small valley below the first extraction site, take the path on the left which climbs steeply and leads to a flat grassy area. On the left, you can see the ruined building of the quarry and the rusted remains of a steam engine.

(4) Head opposite on a very steep path that joins the grassy ridge. Keep to the left to climb the north-south shoulder to a fork marked by a signpost with directions: Saint-Barthélémy to the right and Lacs des Truites and Lac du Diable to the left.

(5) Turn left onto a narrow path that winds along the hillside, alternating between ascents and descents. Some rocky sections are difficult and require caution. When you reach a large rock formation, go around it on the left along the path. Cross a shoulder (elevation 1,843 metres) and continue to Étang des Truites.

(6) Cross the outlet - actually the source of the Lasset torrent - and continue along the path that climbs through rhododendrons and blueberry bushes under the cover of mountain pines. Reach the junction with theGRP® Tour du Massif de Tabe.

GRP® Yellow and Red markings

(7) Turn right, following the sign for Pic du Saint-Barthélemy. Continue climbing across open terrain until you reach the Étang du Diable lake at a fork marked on the ground by a GRP® signpost.
Leave this path and follow the narrow trail on the right, which leads to the rocky banks of the lake after a rather difficult descent.

(8) Turn around.

YellowPR® markings

(7) Turn left to rejoin the uphill route to the old Porteille quarry.

(4) Turn left and walk alongside the two quarries. Continue to a signpost on the left, where you can either follow the path on the left leading to the Cabane de l'Orri or continue on the track you have been following.

(9) Opt for the second option. Pass the Cabane du Vacher and begin the descent. Reach the ruins of the old Fangas mine building, pass them and arrive at a large open flat area.

(10) Turn left: the IGN trail is no longer valid because the passage through the mine is blocked due to rockfalls and the site is fenced off. Pass some rusty remains from the mining days and continue downhill through the woods to the Étang de Moulzoune.

(11) Enjoy the charm of this peaceful site, then continue along the track, which winds its way back to the car park (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : km 0 - alt. 1,301 m - Mine forest road - car park
  2. 1 : km 1.41 - alt. 1,378 m - Junction, on the right
  3. 2 : km 2.6 - alt. 1,580 m - Jasse du Taula
  4. 3 : km 3.11 - alt. 1,604 m - Marker post, on the right
  5. 4 : km 4.68 - alt. 1,632 m - Carrière de la Porteille, circular return junction
  6. 5 : km 5.98 - alt. 1,874 m - Marker posts: L/ left - R/ right
  7. 6 : km 7.63 - alt. 1,859 m - Étang des Truites
  8. 7 : km 7.98 - alt. 1,924 m - GRP°°®°° junction
  9. 8 : km 8.3 - alt. 1,971 m - Étang du Diable
  10. 9 : km 12.44 - alt. 1,619 m - Marker post, on the right
  11. 10 : km 13.49 - alt. 1,481 m - Turn left at the fork.
  12. 11 : km 14.31 - alt. 1,367 m - Étang de Moulzoune
  13. S/E : km 14.74 - alt. 1,300 m - Mine forest road - car park

Notes

Markings:PR® markings are of uneven quality. They are virtually non-existent up to La Taula (2), but become more frequent thereafter.

Hike rating: classified as difficult due to the numerous rocky passages between (5) and (6) where you sometimes have to use your hands, which slows down progress. Added to this are some steep climbs between (4) and (5), then between (6) and (7).

There is a lot of water on the route: streams, torrents, lakes, but bring the necessary equipment to sterilise it.

Hiking boots with good soles and high tops are recommended. Walking sticks will be useful but can sometimes be cumbersome on rocky terrain.

Bring rain gear: the weather changes quickly in the Tabe Massif and storms can be violent.

This route passes through multiple protected areas, which may be subject to special regulations:

Worth a visit

Always be cautious and plan ahead when you're outdoors. Visorando and the author of this route cannot be held responsible for any accidents occurring on this route.

The GR® and PR® markings are the intellectual property of the Fédération Française de Randonnée Pédestre.

Reviews and comments

4.4 / 5
Based on 13 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.5 / 5
Ease of following the route
4.2 / 5
Route interest
4.6 / 5
User 6147446

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 29, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : Yes

rock with slightly high steps, not suitable for groups of different abilities

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User 6147446

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 29, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

very good for small groups, but a very rocky and narrow section is not suitable for groups of hikers as it takes a long time to climb over the scree. The signposting is adequate.

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Africa-twin
Africa-twin

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 29, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

A magnificent hike. Challenging due to its length and numerous scree slopes.
A word of advice: avoid doing the circular
From the car park, I recommend heading towards Lac des Moulzoune, which significantly shortens the hike and allows you to spend more time at the Etang du Diable, a magnificent spot for a picnic

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Tenzig
Tenzig

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 15, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : Yes

Back on track for me, and a technical trail (rocks, roots). But glad I did it.

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Lisaro06
Lisaro06

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 08, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Very beautiful hike, path a bit technical in places

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User 6361577

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 10, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

The loop around the Moulzoune pond is fairly easy and suitable for children.

The return trip to the trout and devil ponds is a little more challenging, with quite a bit of slaloming through blueberry bushes and false flats that slow you down.

No worries about the GPX track, it's fine.

Be aware of the actual elevation gain: 960 metres in total for 16 kilometres!

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LucBa
LucBa
• Edited:

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Jan 25, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

Done in winter with lots of snow (crampons/ice axe). I recommend not following the route at junction 5. Do not turn left, but continue climbing straight ahead (path to the peak) until you pass hill 1924 (IGN). Then descend to the left to rejoin the route.
This avoids crossing the rocky outcrops, which could be fatal if you slip. Do the same on the way back.

Otherwise, it's great, very wild in winter.

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tegon
tegon

It is possible to do this route as a circular after the Devil's Pond towards the Saint Barthélémy Peak Pass, then return via the peaks and back to the fork at point 4 (Saint Barthélémy Peak or lakes). The view is different and impressive over the lakes. Visorandonneur Tégon

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Tinya
Tinya

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 04, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A superb, very varied hike: forest, streams, lakes and incredible views! We were won over.

We only did the quickest round trip to the ponds because there was a storm coming.

The route is fun (big rocks) and easy going (lots of soft ground).

The trout pond is majestic with its cascading waterfalls, and you can see the Pic de Saint Barthélémy right across from it.

Walking poles can help you cross the small fords more easily.

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tegon
tegon
• Edited:

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : May 12, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A very beautiful route, particularly between points 4 (Porteille mine) and the trout pond, where hikers can enjoy the solitude of a landscape of soft green vegetation and young trees amidst the dark green of the fir trees. Only the sound of the waterfall from the trout pond disturbs the silence. Just before the rocky peak (point 3) on the left is the La Taula refuge, where you can spend the night. It is not easy to reach the grassy ridge at point 4; the access path is a little further north of the steam engine. At point 5, just before the rocky chaos, there is a Y-junction, clearly marked on both the left and right. Take the left fork, otherwise you will head towards the pile of rocks. At this time of year, between points 5 and 6, I crossed large patches of snow with the risk of slipping. Fortunately, the snow on the surface is relatively soft, making it easy to dig your heels in (otherwise, bring spiked shoes). I also happened to break through the snow cover. Finally arriving at the trout pond, which is completely white, I crossed the weir with a strong current and got my feet wet. Then I reached the ridge to the left of the trout pond, but a little further on, the path disappeared under the snow, forcing me to turn back.
I don't think the term "difficult" applies to this route. There are a few rocks to cross, but they are easy to access. I thought the term applied more to the length of the route, as the estimated 6½ hours was greatly exceeded by stops and visits. It also seems to me that you should follow the D9 after Montferrier, then turn left onto the D909 which leads to the ski resort.
A walk to be recommended to all hikers.

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domaniale
domaniale
• Edited:

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Nov 20, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

Hike to be avoided in snowy conditions; we were only able to cover 6 km due to the difficult passage over rocks covered in snow.
Magnificent view of Saint Barthélémy covered in snow.

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chespeel
chespeel

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 29, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

A very pleasant hike. The autumn landscapes are splendid. The start of the hike is not very well marked, but if you have the IGN map, it's no problem. The return via the Moulzoune pond allows you to take a well-deserved break.

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ggomez
ggomez

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 23, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Completed on 23/10/2021, the colours of autumn! Magnificent!
A very beautiful hike. If you're feeling fit, push on to Saint Barthélemy and do the circular.

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StephMontagne
StephMontagne

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 23, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A beautiful route with magnificent autumn colours!
The description is clear. However, the Mine forest trail is 4 km from the Mont d'Olmes fork and about 9 km from Montferrier.
The rocky terrain is a bit difficult to navigate and I think it's best to avoid it when the ground is wet.
I think the route could also be adapted on the way back by climbing to the peak of Saint-Barthélémy; it's a 300m climb but, apparently (according to locals who know the route well), the descent is "rolling". So, according to them, it doesn't add much extra time. Something to see and try out.

In any case, I really enjoyed doing it.
Thank you for this suggestion.

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