The River Bure is one of the longest rivers on the broads, rising near Melton Constable and winding its way through Aylsham, Coltishall, Wroxham and Acle before merging with the Yare at Great Yarmouth. The present limit of navigation is Coltishall, which makes this walk free from the hoards of tourist cruisers that can fill the main river during the tourist season. Such a tranquil setting provides a perfect backdrop for the feast of historic features that are presented along the riverside. It would be too much to go into detail for each one, and indeed many of the features can only be viewed from across the river and not specifically explored. Therefore, the following is brief summary of what is encountered along the route to whet ones appetite.
Coltishall Bridge - There has been a crossing here for many centuries and although the present bridge dates from the 1920's, this replaced an earlier 19th century construction which itself replaced an even earlier stone bridge that dated from 1762.
Great Hautbois Castle - Just beyond Coltishall heading up river, on the right bank (or should I say the starboard side) is the site of Great Hautbois Castle, a 14th century fortification of which only ditches and foundations remain. Not much can be viewed from the riverside path other than the various ditches.
St Theobald church, Hautbois - The round tower of the 11th century St Theobald church can clearly be seen on the land that rises above the river towards Hautbois. At first sight it appears to be a normal parish church but look more closely and it is but a ruin with only the tower and chancel still standing. The church was left to decay in Victorian times when a new church was built closer to the village centre. According to An essay towards a topographical history of the county of Norfolk, Volume 3 (Francis Blomefield, 1769) the church was renowned for an image of St. Theobald, commonly called St. Tebbald of Hobbies, and was the destination for pilgrims who travelled many miles to witness the miracles that were said to take place here. The reference to 'Hobbies' is the pronunciation of this hamlet which is still in common usage today. So, all of you who harken from places and regions afar, whether you be pilgrims, wanderers or just a curious visitor, when you extol to all and sundry that you are off to partake in the glories and wonders of a tiny Norfolk hamlet of 'Hort-boy's', stop, think, and prepare you speech with proper tongue and state clearly and confidently that you are to visit 'Hobbies'.
Mayton Bridge - As described in the main feature of this walk, the phantom carriage conveying Sir Thomas Boleyn passes over the two Mayton Bridges. The bridge across the Bure is one of those bridges, and it is used by the river path to swap over to the Fretingham side of the river. Not far down the road towards Fretingham is the second bridge which now crosses a small backwater although some have postulated that this may have been the original course of the river. The second bridge dates from 1630 and it includes a small brick and tile alcove on each side. A local once related to me that these were the sentry boxes for the guards who collected tolls to cross the bridge many centuries ago when it was the main route from Norwich through to Cromer.
Little Hautbois Hall - Looking across the river now gives the view of the 16th century Little Hautbois Hall which is a fine example of a Tudor manor house. Today it is rented out for holiday accommodation or as a wedding venue. There is a bricked up window on one of the upper floors. A local tale states that this room was blocked up and sealed as the result of a violent poltergeist although I can find no further information about this story other what has been related by word of mouth.
Buxton Water Mill - This impressive structure originally dates from 1754 and was in working use right up until 1970 after which it was sold off to be converted into a restaurant and craft shops. The building was destroyed by fire in January 1991 but the owner pledged to restore it to its original condition and within two years the project was completed and the building is now used as a hotel and conference centre.
St Andrews church, Lammas - The name of Lammas is said to have been derived from La Mers, so called because the churchyard is washed by the River Bure which can certainly be appreciated from the footpath on the opposite bank. This church, with its square embattled tower, dates from the 12th century and was said to have been founded by a person named plainly as Osbern who was granted the area by Ralf de Belfago. The present building owes much to a 19th century restoration although there are still traces of its original angle-saxon origins.
Oxnead Hall - This fine building and its accompanying landscaped gardens date from the 17th century when it became the home of the Paston family. Although most of the hall was demolished in the 18th century there is still enough to cast ones eyes over. Just up the river is the Oxnead Mill and its associated canal and lock.
Burgh Mill - This mill with its decaying weatherboard walls was in use up until 1977 and was briefly restored in 1989 for a TV series 'Campion'. Unfortunately it looks in need of a lot of care and attention these days.
Beyond Burgh Mill is Burgh church on the opposite bank and this is where the walk leaves the river to return via the Bure Valley Path as there is no access further along the river bank. A track leads up to Brampton church and then roads through the village lead to Brampton station on the Bure Valley railway. This gives the option of either walking back along the Bure Valley path or catching a steam train on the narrow gauge railway. The advantage of walking is that one can come off route to find a pub at Buxton. Taking the train, one can only cast a longing peer up through the village in full knowledge that a pub desperate for your custom is being forsaken. A simple method around this dilemma, for those who are both walkers and steam train enthusiasts, is to walk to Buxton, take in the pub, and then continue from Buxton station on the train! Then everybody is happy. For details of fares and timetable have a look at The Bure Valley Railway website.
Thus far the walk has encountered several bridges, Coltishall, the two at Mayton, Buxton by the mill, Oxnead and just beyond Brampton is Burgh bridge. These seven bridges are ancient crossings and are supposedly the route, together with five others, that the ghostly apparition of Sir Thomas Boleyn takes in a carriage drawn by four phantom horses each year on the night of May 19th. This annual event serves as his penance for doing nothing to save his daughter Anne, Queen of England, from execution in the Tower of London. The other bridges include Wroxham, Aylsham and Blickling but the location of the further three are unknown. Some references suggest that Belaugh is another location but there is no conclusive evidence that a bridge ever existed at this tiny hamlet between Coltishall and Wroxham. The whereabouts of the other bridges is a complete mystery.
The Thomas Boleyn tale is one of Norfolks many historic ghost stories and is probably one of the better known legends. The day of this walk was not the 19th May and, as expected, not a ghost, a spook or a phantom was to be seen. A few dog walkers. A man in a boat. Plenty of wildlife but no ghosts. I guess the day light hours are not the most conducive time for ghost spotting. Later that day we had a chance meeting with a young couple from Buxton. They had alighted the train at Coltishall as we sat and watched the steam engine pass through the station. A little later we met again in The Red Lion in Coltishall and this time conversation ensued over a pint of beer. They related that after many years of promising, and planning to do but not doing, and putting it off until another day, they had finally taken the train from Brampton, where they lived, to the pub at Coltishall, with the intention of walking back later. What a fantastic way to get to the pub. By steam train.
Even though there was a little light left in the early evening, it was nonetheless fading by eight and it would most certainly be dark by the time they reached home. But they had torches. They were well used to walking the route as it was where they took their dog. Winter walks in the dark by the river. They knew it well. They had no qualms about it. Maybe I should have brought up the subject of Sir Thomas Boleyn, an inquisitive question as to whether they had heard the tale, or indeed witnessed the event first hand. But then modern Norfolk folk dont believe in such claptrap and even if they did, I certainly did not want to scare them with ghostly tales on their dark walk home. It wasn't May 19th so they should be safe. The night would not disturb them.
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