Waypoints

1. S : km 0 - alt. 3 m - Start on Southern Road
2. 2 : km 0.01 - alt. 3 m - Hello and welcome to this walk that uncovers some of Southampton's history from its loosely defined 'modern' period, including the renaissance, enlightenment and industrial eras along with its wartime experiences. The 16th century was one of mixed fortunes for Southampton. While it was granted nationwide monopolies over the export and import of certain lucrative goods, it faced competition as a port from the exponentially expanding London. It could have suffered serious damage during the English Civil War in 1642 when a royal army advanced on the parliamentary held town but they were stopped at Redbridge. A century later, in 1740, Southampton became a spa town, leading contemporary high society to travel there and take in the 'healing' sea air and water. As such, hotels the old town sprang up and larger Georgian houses began to be built in certain areas. In 1840, the first docks were built and coincided with the arrival of the railways. Over the next few decades, land in the Test estuary was reclaimed as the docks expanded. The railways reduced journey times from London and the rest of the country, helping Southampton acquire its status as 'Gateway to the World' due to the streams of emmigrants who left Britain through the port. These docks would also become famous in the Golden Age of the Ocean Liner, of course being the setting off point for the ill-fated Titanic. In the First World War, over 8 million men would head to France via these same docks. In 1919, some troops mutinied when they learned they would be posted back to France for security reasons but they eventually obeyed their orders. By this time, Southampton had grown, with its medieval-era slums cleared in 1899, new neighbourhoods built, and in 1920, the parishes on the E side of the Itchen were formally incorporated into to Southampton. By the 1920s, Southampton had become Britain's largest passenger port. The Western Docks, which you are now standing on, is reclaimed land built up in a massive engineering project costing £13 million with construction lasting from 1927 to 1933. This was funded by the Southern Railway who actually owned the docks, due to the large amount of imports and exports still passing through the port. Passenger traffic was still increasing too; by 1936 46% of all the UK's ocean going passenger traffic emanated from the port (560,000 people). In the Second World War, the port was used to dispatch the British Expeditionary Force to France at the start of the war, then became a principal port for D-Day in 1944 (60% of all US troops and equipment embarked from here). In the war, Southampton suffered heavy bombing, in 57 Luftwaffe raids, concentrated in late 1940 but with outliers until 1944. The Southampton Blitz saw 45,000 buildings damaged or destroyed, the result of over 30,000 incendiary devices and 2,300 bombs. 631 people were killed. The Luftwaffe used the accuracy of OS maps to bomb strategic targets (including OS HQ) though St. Michael's was spared due to its spire that provided a landmark for the planes. The post-war rebuilding was rapid and thus is perhaps not Southampton's finest architecture. In the 1950s, the University of Southampton was born and in 1964, Southampton was awarded city status. By this time, the docks were re-inventing themselves as a port for the new craze for cruises, with ocean liners having been replaced by planes. This is a role it retains, as well as that of an important cargo port.
3. 3 : km 0.04 - alt. 3 m - In front of you is Dock Gate 10, erected in 1933-34 shortly after the completion of the Western Docks. It is a rare survival of a Dock Gate from the Golden Age of the Ocean Liner. Behind, built at the same time are the imposing Solent Flour Mills. Unsurprisingly, the docks were heavily targeted in the Southampton Blitz, with two bombs dropping between the gate and the mills, a further six on the latter itself and another six on the small stretch of road between the gate and the junction with the A33.
4. 4 : km 0.16 - alt. 3 m - Turn right onto West Quay Road, A33
5. 5 : km 0.87 - alt. 3 m - Turn right
6. 6 : km 0.88 - alt. 3 m - Turn left
7. 7 : km 1.14 - alt. 3 m - Turn right onto Herbert Walker Avenue
8. 8 : km 1.27 - alt. 3 m - The other surviving dock gate is Number 8, built at the same time as Number 10. On its right hand pillar is a plaque given to the Southern Railway who owned the port by American soldiers ahead of their departure on D-Day. In 1944, a German POW transit camp was situated near here.
9. 9 : km 1.72 - alt. 3 m - The sadly dilapidated town pier was opened in 1833 by Princess Victoria, four years before she became queen and was originally named the Victoria pier after her. The town docks were becoming very congested at the time so passenger steamers docked here. In 1847, horse drawn (later steam) trams were extended to the pier, with a station installed at the pier's end. In the 1890s, with the expansion of the docks, the pier was repurposed as a pleasure pier. Although the railway closed in 1921, the pier continued to function as a passenger terminus and leisure venue until 1979, with its present white entrance building constructed in 1930. This is the only part of the pier still in use.
10. 10 : km 1.82 - alt. 3 m - Here you can appreciate the grand design of the pier entrance building but also a small part of a 'Mulberry Harbour' built in 1944 for D-Day. As the allies had to land on beaches in France, rather than assault ports, Churchill ordered the construction of floating artificial harbours which were crucial in securing the allied positions in the days after the invasion. This section has a 'whale road' which connects to the shore. Whale Roads connected one pontoon to the other, the latter making up the principal structure of the harbour. Such a pontoon, partially submerged is attached to the end of the Whale Road and after being moved to its present position in 1950 was used as a ferry terminal. The Whale Road is one of only four existing, and the pontoon may be a unique survival.
11. 11 : km 1.83 - alt. 3 m - Turn right onto Town Quay, A33
12. 12 : km 1.97 - alt. 3 m - Keep right onto Town Quay, A33
13. 13 : km 2.02 - alt. 3 m - You are now passing the Harbour Board Offices. The quay beyond was built between in the mid nineteenth century, and this area would previously have been underwater, as shown by the line of the medieval town walls. The Harbour Board Offices are Edwardian, dating from 1910, a time when the quay was covered in railway tracks delivering cargo.
14. 14 : km 2.24 - alt. 3 m - Standing at the crossroads and looking SE, you may be able to see the largely filled in Trafalgar Dry Dock Built in 1905 and enlarged in 1913 and 1922, it was the largest dry dock in the world even before its first enlargement to accommodate new, bigger ocean liners. By 1924 however, such liners were serviced at a floating dock and later the King George V dock at Redbridge (part of the Western Docks). The top of Trafalgar Dock now forms a distinctive hull shaped section of car park, although a small section still functions as a dock. Also visible are concrete lines marking out the surrounding land reclaimed at the same time as the dock's construction and sections to the W added in the post-war years.
15. 15 : km 2.58 - alt. 3 m - There are a variety of historic buildings here. On the S side of the road, from W-E are the Post Office Building, built in 1902 as a Customs House, a function which it served until 1965; its predecessor, Union Castle House, constructed in 1847; the Offices of the Department of Trade and Industry and the Mercantile Marine from the same period is next along, followed by the Wilts and Dorset Bank of c.1835. Just to the E are the railway dock gate piers from the late 19th century. Originally, there would have been many more tracks serving this section of the docks, which were built in the late nineteenth century and early twentieth. Across the street is the South Western Hotel built in 1872 for passengers staying overnight between journeying by train and boat. To the left is a K6 telephone box of 1935
16. 16 : km 2.61 - alt. 3 m - Turn right
17. 17 : km 2.62 - alt. 2 m - Turn sharp left
18. 18 : km 2.79 - alt. 2 m - Turn right
19. 19 : km 2.81 - alt. 2 m - Turn right
20. 20 : km 2.81 - alt. 2 m - The memorial here was erected in 1885 to General Gordon who was killed at the Siege of Khartoum which lasted from 1884-5. Further to the W is Southampton's Old Bowling Green and its mid nineteenth century clubhouse. Examined in the Medieval Southampton walk, it is the oldest surviving bowling green in the world, dating from 1299.
21. 21 : km 2.87 - alt. 3 m - Turn sharp right onto Queen's Terrace
22. 22 : km 3.01 - alt. 2 m - The upcoming line of buildings are all listed. Numbers 23 and 24 are from the mid nineteenth century, while 25,26 and 27 are from earlier in the same century. 28 dates from the same period as these but has a modern shop front. 29 was purpose built as the Oriental Hotel Pub at the same time. 30, 31 and 32 also have such a date. On the corner, and extending around to Terminus Terrace is the mid nineteenth century Royal Mail House. Opposite it on the E side of Terminus Terrace is the 1839-40 building that gives the road its name. It is the station building of Southampton Terminus, Southampton's original railway station, which was situated conveniently near the docks. While now, a freight-only line runs past it since its 1966 closure, it once had 6 platforms and the building was the prototype for station buildings all over the London and South Western area, like at St. Denys. Indeed, the Terminus building is one of the earliest survivals of railway architecture.
23. 23 : km 3.11 - alt. 2 m - Turn left onto Terminus Terrace, A33
24. 24 : km 3.16 - alt. 2 m - Turn left onto Oxford Street
25. 25 : km 3.2 - alt. 2 m - 35 and 36 Oxford Street date are a fine example of Edwardian era architecture, Further W, number 32, now a Pizza Express is slightly earlier, but parts of the building date from 1846. Opposite is the Grape Pub, from the early 19th century, with a its lower frontage dating from late in that century. Numbers 44-49 beyond are all similar in having late Victorian shop fronts added to their early 19th century structure. Opposite are some mid nineteenth century buildings with early twentieth century shop frontages, now the White Star. On the corner of Oxford Street and Latimer Street is another mid nineteenth century building with its original shop front intact. On the S side of the road junction is the Mountbatten Centre, a Sailors' Home of 1908. When it was built, this area was the centre for commerce in the port, being situated so close to the docks, until the Western Docks were built in the 1930s. Indeed, 17 of the Titanic's crewmen lived here. On the N side of the road from the Mountbatten Centre are a row of listed buildings, all from the 1830s, when many of the streets in this area were built. 18-24 have some original shop fronts, while 10-17 were purpose built as houses. There is one listed building on the Mountbatten Centre's side; number 61, dating to the same time as the other buildings but with a late nineteenth century extension on the SE. It retains considerable internal fittings and once had a sister house on the N side of the street. It was home of the first Lady Mayor of Southampton, Foster Welch who died in 1940.
26. 26 : km 3.44 - alt. 4 m - Turn sharp right onto Bernard Street
27. 27 : km 3.46 - alt. 4 m - On the junction with Bernard Street is a white building from the early nineteenth century, originally built as a house and later becoming a hotel called the Globe before being converted into flats. Further E along Bernard Street are a terrace consisting of 83-95 (odd numbers) dating from c.1840 although it is possible that 83 and 85 are slightly earlier. Opposite is St. Nicholas, a Greek Orthodox Church, (until 1967 the Anglican Church of St. James) built in 1956 after the previous Church fell victim to the Blitz. There are carved glass images of Jesus, the docks and ocean liners inside. Further along the road are 113-133 (odd numbers) all likely from the 1830s when the streets in this area of Southampton were laid out. It is unsurprising that these street were built due to their proximity to the new docks being built at the same time.
28. 28 : km 3.7 - alt. 2 m - Turn left onto A33
29. 29 : km 3.8 - alt. 3 m - Turn right onto Central Bridge, A3025
30. 30 : km 3.87 - alt. 4 m - This is Central Bridge, originally built as a railway bridge in 1881-2. It led to the 'floating bridge' vehicle ferry over the Itchen which operated from 1836-1977 when the Itchen Bridge was opened. Looking over on its S side, you will see a single storey brick building from the 1890s. This is the town's old corn exchange, built on the site of its former cattle market.
31. 31 : km 4.08 - alt. 6 m - Turn sharp right onto Saltmarsh Road, B3039
32. 32 : km 4.23 - alt. 3 m - The building to the W is a goods shed of the former Southampton Terminus, built in the mid-nineteenth century. It is one of the earliest buildings of its type.
33. 33 : km 4.34 - alt. 3 m - Turn right onto Canute Road, B3039
34. 34 : km 4.45 - alt. 3 m - On the corner of Royal Crescent Road and Canute Road is Canute Castle Hotel of c.1835-40, purpose built as were many buildings in the area during the construction of the docks. Across the road is Ferry House, Dock Board Offices from the 1870s that had an upper storey added in 1989. To its west are Canute Chambers of 1893, built for the American Line shipping country and was occupied by various subsequent companies until 1969. Next door is Dart House from roughly the same time as Canute Chambers, which were offices for the London and South Western Railway. Opposite are 1,2 and 3 Canute Road, all from c.1830 although 3 may be slightly earlier. Back across the road and a little further to the W is Wight House, a bank of 1896 and next door, Provincial House, also a bank, but built from 1927-9, separated from Wight House by its impressive gate piers.
35. 35 : km 4.47 - alt. 3 m - Turn left onto Neptune Way
36. 36 : km 4.61 - alt. 3 m - Turn left onto Ocean Way
37. 37 : km 4.74 - alt. 3 m - Turn right onto Maritime Walk
38. 38 : km 4.93 - alt. 3 m - The W wall of this dock basin dates from 1838-42 when this became the first of Southampton's modern docks to be built. The N wall of the basin also dates from this time.
39. 39 : km 5.1 - alt. 2 m - Keep left
40. 40 : km 5.13 - alt. 3 m - Turn slight left
41. 41 : km 5.2 - alt. 3 m - Turn left onto Channel Way
42. 42 : km 5.29 - alt. 2 m - Turn right onto Canute Road
43. 43 : km 5.34 - alt. 3 m - Turn left onto Albert Road South
44. 44 : km 5.39 - alt. 5 m - There are two more hotels on this road; the Marsh dates from c.1840 while the Royal Albert is from 1853, both purpose built.
45. 45 : km 5.44 - alt. 4 m - Turn right
46. 46 : km 5.45 - alt. 4 m - Turn right
47. 47 : km 5.56 - alt. 5 m - Keep left
48. 48 : km 5.57 - alt. 3 m - Turn right onto Ryde Terrace
49. 49 : km 5.75 - alt. 3 m - The Cross House is much older than the other historical buildings you have seen, dating from the medieval era and was likely the base of a larger boundary cross on this spot, when this area was the separate village of Itchenworth. From the 16th century at least it has been used as a shelter with benches for those waiting to be ferried across the Itchen. In 1577 it was mentioned as a 'weather house'. It was repaired in 1634 and inscribed with the initials for Peter Clungeon, the mayor at the time.
50. 50 : km 5.93 - alt. 2 m - Turn right onto Endle Street
51. 51 : km 6.23 - alt. 2 m - The city annex building was originally a school built in 1923.
52. 52 : km 6.24 - alt. 2 m - Turn right onto Andersons Road
53. 53 : km 6.36 - alt. 2 m - Turn right onto Chapel Road
54. 54 : km 6.42 - alt. 2 m - The building ahead is Chapel Mills on the 'American Wharf'. This was constructed in 1781 during the American War of Independence and its SE section was a steam mill and bake house that provided the royal navy with biscuits during the war. The rest of the building is from 1800-1811, enlarging the bake house and providing a grain store for the navy in the Napoleonic Wars. This was only the third steam mill to be built in the country and is the only survivor of the first generation of steam mills. Behind it is a quay wall dating from at least the time of the mill but possibly earlier. It is the oldest surviving quay wall in Southampton and is quite rare nationally. This is where the 'industrial' part of the walk ends. You can choose to leave at this point, or explore more historic buildings up to Portswood, as it may be a convenient way home for lots of Sotonians after a day in the city centre.
55. 55 : km 6.42 - alt. 2 m - Turn right onto Albert Road North, B3038
56. 56 : km 6.9 - alt. 3 m - At roundabout, take exit 1 onto Britannia Road, B3038
57. 57 : km 6.95 - alt. 3 m - As you turn onto Britannia Road, you will notice the flats of c.1900 to the E, while beyond St. Mary' Stadium is the Gasholder Station. Gasholder 1 from 1935 is the largest of its kind in Hampshire while number 9 beyond was built in 1909.
58. 58 : km 7.2 - alt. 4 m - Turn right
59. 59 : km 7.26 - alt. 2 m - Turn left onto Wilson Street
60. 60 : km 7.44 - alt. 2 m - Turn left onto Peel Street
61. 61 : km 7.44 - alt. 2 m - On this street are a purpose built school of 1888 and its caretaker's cottage to the S.
62. 62 : km 7.48 - alt. 2 m - Turn left onto Kent Street
63. 63 : km 7.56 - alt. 3 m - To the N is the Church of St. Augustine of 1881 in a neo-Saxon style. The surrounding neighbourhoods were being developed at the same time.
64. 64 : km 7.68 - alt. 4 m - Turn right onto Radcliffe Road
65. 65 : km 8.03 - alt. 3 m - Turn left onto Mount Pleasant Road
66. 66 : km 8.24 - alt. 4 m - The Old Farm Pub was indeed an old farm. In the medieval period, there was a grange of St. Denys Priory here, while in a Tudor map of 1560, a farmhouse is marked on the spot. While the brickwork dates it to 1611, it has an older core and a 16th century fireplace. There is allegedly a tunnel linking the pub to the medieval Bitterne Mnaor across the Itchen... Beyond the pub is a junior school and old school house from 1898.
67. 67 : km 8.48 - alt. 4 m - Turn left onto Blackberry Terrace
68. 68 : km 8.57 - alt. 8 m - Turn left onto Onslow Road, A335
69. 69 : km 8.57 - alt. 8 m - At the junction here is the New Inn from the 1870s and the Bevois Castle from a decade or two earlier. In front of the latter is a drinking fountain of the late 19th century.
70. 70 : km 8.83 - alt. 3 m - Up Ancasta Road is a Chinese Christian Church built sometime between 1866 and 1893, like the rest of the area.
71. 71 : km 9.02 - alt. 11 m - Keep left onto Bevois Hill
72. 72 : km 9.1 - alt. 16 m - Bevois Mansions on the E date from c.1840. Further to the N are 1-21 Ascupart House, a block of flats built in 1935 and a little further along on the opposite side of the road are purpose built shops from between 1895-1908.
73. 73 : km 9.13 - alt. 17 m - Turn sharp right onto Thomas Lewis Way
74. 74 : km 9.13 - alt. 17 m - Turn sharp right onto Thomas Lewis Way
75. 75 : km 9.15 - alt. 18 m - Keep left
76. 76 : km 9.38 - alt. 14 m - Turn left onto Spring Crescent
77. 77 : km 9.55 - alt. 17 m - 14 Spring Road was built in the mid nineteenth century and is detached from the later properties that surround it.
78. 78 : km 9.68 - alt. 20 m - Turn right onto Portswood Road
79. 79 : km 9.94 - alt. 20 m - On the SE corner of the junction is Swiss Cottage, a late 19th century house built in the Swiss style, while on the NW corner is a house from the 1880s, now a shop. Further up the road are the Addis Square purpose built shops from the 1920s and the Portswood Broadway former cinema, a building of 1930 quintessentially capturing the ontemporary architectural styles.
80. 80 : km 10.41 - alt. 21 m - After passing the Portswood Library of 1915, you will reach the end of this walk and the prominent corner building opposite Sainsbury's. This was a bank when built in 1920 and is another marker of Portswood's commercial development in the early 20th century, following suit (and on a lesser scale) from the town centre. I hope you have enjoyed seeing these slices of Southampton's history, similar walks are upcoming!
81. E : km 10.42 - alt. 21 m

Useful Information

Always stay careful and alert while following a route. Visorando and the author of this walk cannot be held responsible in the event of an accident during this route.