Guided tour of Royat

Departure from Royat-Chamalière station. Small car park available (paid).
Terms in italics refer to the paragraph "During the hike or nearby".
Unmarked hike.

(S/E) With your back to the station façade, turn right and follow Avenue de la Gare straight ahead, passing to the right of the former Hôtel Terminus. Before going under the railway bridge, climb the stairs on the left and continue along the street (Rue des Roches). You will come to Avenue de la Gare. Follow it to the right for a few metres towards the Place Landouzy crossroads.

(1) Turn right onto Avenue Pierre et Marie Curie, at the corner of Villa des Champs Élysées. At the intersection, go down the stairs opposite to reach Rue des Thermes, at the foot of the viaduct. Enter the Parc Thermal on the left. Turn right at the car park, with your back to the casino, cross the Tiretaine, leaving the Pavillon Saint-Mart on your right, then the Bains Romains. Continue along the path and exit the park onto Avenue de Royat (pretty house opposite, the Villa Dar El Beïda). Follow it to the left, pass in front of the main entrance to the thermal spa, and arrive at a large roundabout at the intersection of Avenue Auguste Rouzaud and Boulevard Vaquez.

(2) Go around it on the right, first crossing Avenue Auguste Rouzaud, passing in front of the Sacré-Cœur Church (formerly the "chapelle des baigneurs" or bathers' chapel, now privately owned, with some pretty sculptures on the façade), cross the avenue again towards Villa La Chaumière and return to the roundabout on the left. Follow Boulevard Vaquez to the right, then turn right into the car park and arrive at the rear of Villa la Chaumière (more beautiful from this side). Turn your back on the villa to cross the car park and reach the street, opposite the brasserie. Turn right for a few metres, then climb the steps on the left and follow the path on the right that enters the Parc Thermal. Pass the enamelled lava panels of the Royat geoscope. Follow the concrete path, cross the bridge over the Tiretaine, and stay on the path until you reach the playground. Go around it on the right, continue to the left along the Tiretaine and the purple balustrade on your right, leave the Tiretaine marker on your right, cross the Tiretaine again on the rounded footbridge at La Belle Meunière restaurant and exit the park. Immediately cross the river again on a bridge.

(3) Turn right immediately (do not take the stairs). Pass by the lift, turn left before the next bridge and immediately pass in front of the Grotte des Lavandières. Climb the steps to reach the upper town, the old village of Royat (very different atmosphere from the spa district, see streets of Royat) and arrive at a small square at the Rue du Château signpost.

(4) For a return trip, continue straight ahead towards Charade, ignore a street on the left, and arrive at a busy street. Move slightly to the right to cross at the pedestrian crossing at the traffic lights. Continue straight ahead, crossing a car park and continuing along the Tiretaine on your left until you reach the old Taillerie de Royat. Retrace your steps to the Rue du Château signpost.

(4) Turn right towards Boiséjour, arrive in front of the entrance to the Ancien Prieuré Saint-Léger, turn right to reach the forecourt of the Église Saint-Léger, where the Croix des Apôtres stands. With your back to the cross, head towards the street bordering the square and go to the circular fountain. Turn right onto Rue Adolphe Péghoux, then immediately left onto Rue de l'Arcade, go through the gate and exit onto Rue Nationale. Turn left, then take the first street on the left (towards the church) and then right onto Rue Cordemoy. Then turn into the alley on the left. Continue along the street for a few metres until you reach the Escalier du Temps staircase built into the wall of the church forecourt (the lift is on the right), then take a sharp right and go down the stairs to La Tiretaine, passing in front of the Grotte Siméoni (information panel), and ending up at the bridge you crossed earlier.

(3) Without crossing the river, continue straight ahead on the street that goes uphill, ignore a street on the right and arrive at a busy street, opposite the Villa Lysbeth (pretty façade). Turn left (on this section, there is a view of Le Paradis, a sort of castle visible on the cliff on the other side of the town) and continue to the town hall roundabout to see the "La Sirène" fountain (by Jean Chauchard).

(5) Retrace your steps for about 50 metres and turn right to cross a small car park and take an alleyway that leads down to the Parc Thermal. At the blue barrier, do not enter the park but head down the street on the right. This leads to a busy street, opposite a restaurant. Turn left (note the Castel Sévigné turreted house on the right) and continue to the intersection with Rue Jean Heitz, which branches off to the right. Take this street, between the superb Villa Stella and the charming old-fashioned post office (note the Villa des Lauriers opposite the post office on the boulevard). Just behind the post office, follow the signs for Temple for a short round trip to this very discreet religious building, then return to Rue Jean Heitz and continue uphill to the left. (On this section, look back to admire the Puy de Dôme.) Further up, keep to the left and join Rue Hippolyte Mallet (street art mosaic). Follow it to the right. When you reach a busy street, follow it to the left. (Once again close to the spa district, the street is lined with old guesthouses). Shortly afterwards, continue straight ahead at the intersection of several streets to arrive at the entrance to Parc Bargoin.

(6) Visit the park at your leisure. Following my GPS track will allow you to discover its main features, then exit through the same gate.

(6) Go straight ahead on the street furthest to the right at the crossroads, Rue Jocelyn Bargoin, and stay on this street until you reach the T-junction with Boulevard Barrieu, at the former Hôtel Parc Majestic on the right.

(7) Turn left onto this boulevard lined with old guesthouses (La Vologne, La Paix, Royat Palace, ...) and former luxury hotels (in particular the former Hôtel Régina, with its mosaic monogram representing the hotel's initials, HR, on the left side of the boulevard), until you reach the large building with yellow shutters, the former Hôtel Victoria (with Art Nouveau and Art Deco ironwork), on the right. Carefully cross the boulevard and take the stairway passageway just to the right of the Victoria, which descends to Boulevard Vaquez. Cross this boulevard using the pedestrian crossing to reach the Quartier Thermal sign. Turn right, pass to the left of the Buvette Eugénie and arrive in front of the Porte Eugénie (topped with superb glass roofs) of the thermal establishment. Turn right between the two majestic sequoias and climb the stairs to reach Boulevard Vaquez (note the beautiful bas-relief representing the city's emblematic mermaid on the second floor). Turn left (note the beautiful details on the façade of the yellow building across the street, the former Hôtel Le Thermal), then take the first street on the left and immediately take the steps on the right to reach a crossroads, Place Landouzy.

(1) Head opposite towards the sumptuous Pavillon Majestic (entirely covered in green and white glazed bricks). Further ahead, note the beautiful façade of the former Grand Hôtel Majestic Palace and make a short return trip to admire the details of the façade more closely. Retrace your steps.

(1) Turn right in front of the entrance to the Pavillon Majestic park and walk along the building on your right (the façade of the building just behind it is also remarkable). On the other side of the street is the Villa des Fleurs, decorated with ceramic panels, and the Hôtel Royal Saint-Marc. At the bend in the road to the left, turn right to return to Royat-Chamalières station (feel free to walk around the building to observe its details) (S/E).

This is a very easy urban walk, requiring no special equipment other than comfortable shoes.
There are markings on this route, but they are not relevant to this particular hike. The useful markings are indicated in the description.
Please note: Bargoin Park is closed in high winds.

Discover more hikes in this area with a description or the Visorando app here

Photo album here

Information from Clermont Auvergne Tourisme

The spa (1852-1856) is built of arkose, a sandstone chosen for its brightness, as opposed to Volvic stone, which was considered too dark at the time. The main building, in antique style, leads to two identical wings. The decorations are concentrated around the Porte Eugénie: three large arches decorated with trompe l'oeil stained glass, antique statues and monumental columns. Today, the spa, which specialises in the treatment of cardiovascular diseases and rheumatism, welcomes more than 8,000 spa guests every year.

The Roman baths. The origins of the spa date back to Antiquity, as evidenced by the numerous remains discovered at the foot of each spring. Today, only a swimming pool with tiers and semicircles is still visible.

The Pavillon Saint-Mart is a former foot bath establishment. Discovered in 1876, the Saint-Mart Spring flows from the site of the monastery of the same name. A simple refreshment bar was set up in 1880, followed by a small establishment after the properties of the spring were discovered. In 1912, Auguste Rouzaud, the owner of the resort, asked the architect Louis Jarrier to embellish and enlarge it. Jarrier kept only one façade and designed a new pavilion with a roof terrace and dome. Protected by a roof in 1937, the pavilion was permanently closed for treatment in 1980.

The theatre and casino. The theatre was built in 1891-1892. Its façade alternates between light stone, red, pink and yellow bricks. The great originality of this theatre lies in the design of the auditorium, which is lit by large bay windows. Many artists have performed on its stage, including Sarah Bernhardt, Colette and Édith Piaf. Completely restored, the theatre is open to the public for shows, concerts and events such as the "À Lire des Auteurs" book fair.
The first casino, built in 1873-1874, was made of timber framing and red brick. Destroyed by fire in 1919, it was rebuilt the following year in a style combining modernity and antique motifs.
Today, it has a games room with slot machines, traditional games and a brasserie.

The Villa des Champs Élysées was built for Doctor Basset. Its original sign, a nod to its former use, consists of a sculpted dog placed in a niche above the entrance door and a bust of Hippocrates, author of the oath taken by doctors.

Opened in 1853 by Hippolyte Cousteix, the Hôtel Royal Saint-Mart has been run by the same family for five generations. The monumental gate was designed by the Clermont-Ferrand ironworker Bernardin.
At the very beginning of the Second World War, the French government retreated to the spa resort of Royat-Chamalières, where several ministries were established. The Hôtel Royal Saint-Mart officially housed the "service de retour à la Terre" (return to the land service), but in reality it concealed one of the three branches of the French secret service.

The station. The arrival of the railway played a major role in the boom of spa towns. The station, built in 1886, is characteristic of the railway architecture of the time: red bricks, faux white stone and canopies. A little history: 1880 - Construction of the viaduct, 1881 - Opening of the line, 1886 - Construction of the station by architect Jules Martin. Typical construction of railway buildings at the beginning of the Third Republic, in a style that is both functional and picturesque. Cast iron canopy decorated with lion heads.

The former Grand Hôtel Majestic Palace was the first hotel built in 1865, then enlarged several times. Its décor is remarkable: clock, veranda, satirical mascarons...

The Pavillon Majestic, formerly an annex of the Grand Hôtel Majestic Palace, was built in 1912. It had the first bathrooms in the city and hot water central heating. This modernity is displayed on the facades through the use of green and white glazed bricks.

Boulevard Vaquez is lined with a series of buildings that are imposing in size and rich in decoration. These grand hotels, rivalling each other in beauty and modernity, had converted their ground floors into shops, offering local specialities to fashionable bathers.
Artisans are still present in the resort. The Aux Pierres Fines jewellery shop was founded in 1837. The Taillerie de Royat, built in 1920 by the architect Guillot, is an industrial building located on the outskirts of the town in the direction of Puy de Dôme. The building has been closed since 2004, and a museum would be welcome.

The Buvette Eugénie, named after the Empress and Emperor Napoleon III who visited in 1862, is the symbol of the resort. This refreshment bar was originally a cast iron kiosk. In 1913-1914, the spring was protected by a glass dome and surrounded by a circular counter decorated with sandstone and opaline tiles. In 1936, the cast iron kiosk was replaced by a circular structure in antique style. The restored counter was covered with enamelled lava in 1980. Today, the refreshment bar is closed to spa guests. The waters of the Eugénie and Saint-Mart springs can be drunk in the spa hall.

The Villa la Chaumière is a picturesque villa located in the heart of the spa district. This former holiday home was an annex of the Hôtel Richelieu (now the Hôtel Princesse Flore), built at the beginning of the 20th century by Clermont-Ferrand architect Louis Jarrier. The façade is remarkable for its richness and the polychromy of its materials (mosaics).

The Royat Thermal Park was developed in the 1970s. Previously, it was an industrial area. Since medieval times, mills had been using the stream's power to drive their wheels and grind wheat, hemp, paper, etc.
The arrival of the railway in the spa town in 1880 and the installation of hydroelectric turbines at the beginning of the 20th century led to the creation and development of important factories such as the À La Marquise de Sévigné chocolate factory and the Taillerie de Royat.
In the 1970s, the Tiretaine valley was declared a flood zone, forcing many businesses to relocate. La Taillerie de Royat, located further upstream on the Tiretaine, escaped this measure but closed in 2004.

La Belle Meunière is a hotel and restaurant housed in a former flour mill. When her father died in 1879, Marie Quinton decided to transform the family mill into a hotel and restaurant. At the time, the spa resort was booming: the railway was about to arrive, roads and hotels were being built...
It was in this somewhat isolated hotel that General Boulanger (Minister of War) and Margueritte de Bonnemain decided to meet secretly in 1887. This famous couple became friends with Marie Quinton and changed her destiny. Three years later, Madame de Bonnemain died. Unable to bear her departure, General Boulanger shot himself in the head while standing on her grave. This desperate act caused a great deal of controversy. Curious onlookers flocked to the scene of the scandal. This notoriety enabled Marie Quinton to completely transform the family mill and create a magnificent restaurant (architect Louis Jarrier, 1904-1906).

Royat is built on a basalt flow from the Petit Puy de Dôme. The basalt columns, visible at the foot of the rock face from the Parc Thermal, were formed when the viscous lava cooled. As it solidified, the lava developed a flow of polygonal prisms.
It was on this lava flow that the ramparts of Royat were built during the Hundred Years' War by the inhabitants of Royat with the logistical help of monks. Only one tower remains, thanks to its later use as a dovecote.
The Grotte des Laveuses (Washerwomen's Cave) was formed by a steam bubble. Five springs gush forth and flow into a rustic wash house.

Former Saint-Léger Priory. The door to the old monastery is often open. You can go through the gate to visit the courtyard (make sure you close the door behind you).
The first monastery in Royat was built during the 7th century on the initiative of Saint-Priest. Rebuilt around the year 1000, Pope Urban II placed it under the patronage of Saint-Léger and under the authority of Mozac Abbey. The complex was enlarged in the 11th century, then embellished with monumental fireplaces, new windows and doors made of Volvic stone in the 17th century.
The priory was sold as national property in 1791. Following some negotiations, the east wing was converted into a presbytery. The north and west wings were given to the nuns of Notre-Dame de la Montgie and later housed the École du Sacré-Chœur. Today, they are owned by the Town of Royat.

Saint-Léger Church. The history of the church and the priory are closely linked. Although there are no traces of the first church from the 7th century, some remains from the 10th century still exist. The monument was completely rebuilt in the 11th century by the monks of Mozac Abbey. At that time, the church consisted of a single nave ending in a semi-circular apse. At the end of the 12th century, this latter part was demolished to make way for a rectangular transept and choir. It was at this time that the entire monastery and church were fortified. This explains the absence of an ambulatory and radiating chapels, and the presence of battlements protecting the rampart walk around the perimeter of the church. The bell tower, destroyed by the Revolutionaries, was rebuilt at the end of the 19th century. The monument was restored twice, at the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 21st century.

The Cross of the Apostles. The Cross of the Apostles was sculpted in 1486 by Etienne Eveyrt.
It depicts the life of Christ, from his birth (Virgin and Child) on one side to his crucifixion on the other. The apostles who accompanied him are depicted on the crossbeam.

The streets of Royat are mainly lined with winegrowers' houses, consisting of a wine press on the ground floor, two levels of cellars and living quarters on the upper floors.
Rue de l'Arcade. The archway under which you pass marks the location of the ramparts of Royat, which followed the route of the Rue Nationale. This secondary gate provided access to the suburbs.

Viewpoint over Le Paradis. The large building on Puy Chateix houses the restaurant Le Paradis. This former convalescent home was built in the early 20th century by Clermont-Ferrand architect Louis Jarrier on behalf of Dr Alexandre Petit. Several horse-drawn carriage services allowed bathers to enjoy the fresh air, the magnificent panoramic view, the tea room, a souvenir shop and an Auvergne museum.

Bargoin Park. An 8-hectare English-style wooded park with nearly 60 species of trees and a total of 800 trees.
The park is adorned with magnificent trees: hundred-year-old sequoias, Lebanese cedars, Ginkgo Biloba and a maple tree listed in the green guide as one of the largest specimens in France (250 years old, 7.50m in circumference).
Nearly 800 different plant species are recorded in the park. A magnificent pleasure garden created in the 19th century, located on the heights of the town, in the upper part of Rue des Montagnards, is a delight for walkers and spa visitors.

Information from other sources:

Villa Stella. This villa, built shortly before the First World War, is one of the last examples of a bourgeois house designed in the spirit of the 19th century, but incorporating the decorative vocabulary that was in vogue at the time. The tasteful neo-Louis XVI style serves as the architectural backdrop for the project.

La Tiretaine, a magnificent little river in Royat, which is unfortunately buried downstream in the municipalities of Chamalières and Clermont.

Parc Bargoin. Formerly the Domaine de Bellevue, this park was owned until 1815 by the former mayor of Chamalières under Napoleon I. It was then bought by Jocelyn Bargoin, a former pharmacist who made his fortune with his partner and friend Henri Lecoq by creating a coffee substitute factory: Gland-Doux.
When he died in 1882, he bequeathed this large 7-hectare park to the Puy-de-Dôme General Council, much to the delight of walkers and spa visitors, who can discover unusual tree species such as the California redwood and the Gingko Biloba.

A stone's throw from the spa park,the Sacré-Cœur Church was built at the request of Catholic spa guests. Also known as the bathers' chapel, it was inaugurated and opened for worship on 20 July 1894 after two years of construction. It was a response to a real need. To understand the reasons for its construction, it is necessary to consider the context. At that time, horses were the most commonly used means of transport.
The spa's clientele belonged to the aristocracy and the bourgeoisie, as well as intellectuals and artists. Sedan chairs were commonly used to transport the world's elite from one point in the resort to another. Theatres, hotels and entertainment venues were concentrated as close as possible to the thermal baths. And for the celebration of Mass, spa guests found the Church of Saint-Léger, in the town centre, too far away.
As for the municipality at the time, it saw this new building as a way of attracting more spa guests and thus boosting the prosperity of the spa resort. The chapel was built on Place Allard, on a small plot of land, in limestone, based on the plans of Clermont-Ferrand architect Jules Painchaux.

Protestant temple, formerly an Anglican chapel. Built in 1886 to welcome the spa resort's international clientele. Services were provided by a chaplain from the Colonial and
Continental Church Society. After the First World War, the chapel was dedicated to
worship by the Reformed Church of France.