Start from Edgar Quinet metro station (line 6). Take the only exit onto Boulevard Edgar-Quinet.
Within the cemetery, the main avenues and paths are paved or tarmac-surfaced and are signposted. The route also takes secondary paths or trails, which are not signposted and may not appear on the base map.
In the description below, the names appearing on the graves may be highlighted for three different reasons:
1) Graves of notable figures, in which case a lower-case letter in brackets refers to a short entry in the “Places to see” section, where names are listed in the order they appear on the route.
2) Particularly distinctive monuments.
3) Useful landmarks in the area.
(S) As you exit the metro station, turn left to cross Boulevard Quinet at the pedestrian crossing and follow it to the left. Walk along the cemetery wall on your right. After about 200 m, enter the cemetery through its main entrance.
Turn immediately left onto Avenue du Boulevard. Note the overgrown grave of Marguerite Duras on the left (a). At the end, turn right onto Avenue de l’Est. Note, on a large square slab of black marble on the right-hand side, a bird statue created by Nicky de Saint-Phalle. At the junction, turn left onto Avenue du Nord.
(1) Leave the western part of the cemetery, cross Rue Émile Richard and enter the eastern part. Turn right onto the avenue and note, on the left-hand side, the tomb of Charles Pigeon (b) and his wife Thérèse, depicted as recumbent figures on a monumental bed. Just after that, a tomb is adorned with two sculpted women. At the corner of Avenue Thierry, you arrive at the foot of the tomb of André Citroën (c) and his family.
Facing this grave, two grassy paths continue straight ahead: take the one on the right (do not turn right onto Avenue Thierry). Note, on the left, the simple grave of Joseph Kessel (e). Further on, pass between two monumental graves: that of the Wildenstein family on the right and that of the Jauro family on the left. Continue along a path to reach the grave of Alfred (e) and Lucie (f) Dreyfus, covered in pebbles. A little further on is the flower-covered grave of Félix Valloton (g). Continue along the path until you reach Avenue Thierry again.
(2) Follow the avenue to the right until you reach the grave of Auguste Bartholdi (h), on the right-hand side. On the left is the Wall of the Federates. Retrace your steps to the monuments (on the right-hand side) paying tribute to the Paris Fire Brigade, the Republican Guard and the soldiers of the 1870–1871 war.
(2) Continue straight ahead then turn right into Avenue du Midi. Leave the eastern part of the cemetery, cross Rue Émile Richard again and return to the eastern part. Shortly afterwards, turn right onto Avenue de l’Est. On the left, you will see a stele topped with a representation of a planet; this is the grave of the astronomer Urbain Le Verrier (i).
At the junction, turn right and immediately note, on the left, the grave of Stéphane Hessel (j). Then note, on the right-hand side, the grave of Bruno Cremer (k) with its humorous epitaph. Finally, arrive at the cenotaph of Charles Baudelaire (l). Retrace your steps back to the previous junction.
Continue straight ahead along Avenue Transversale. On the right, in the third row, you will see a grave whose slab is covered with oyster shells and topped by a glass bottle half-filled with a cloudy liquid. Still on the right, a little further on, is the grave of Samuel Beckett (m).
Here begins the first loop of the central part of the cemetery, in the form of a square following straight paths.
(3) At the junction, take a gravel path to the left, the Allée Chauveau-Lagarde. Go straight on and pass the grave of Mireille Darc (n) on the left, then that of Claude Chauveau-Lagarde (o) on the right. On the left, look for the grave of Charles Garnier (p) in the third row and that of François Coli (q) in the second. Next, on the right-hand side, note the grave of Claude Sautet (r) and, behind it, that of Alfred Mézières (s). At the next junction, look out for the Lichtig family grave (t) opposite, whose epitaph serves as a reminder that France can be a welcoming land.
Then turn right into a paved path (Allée Raffet). On the left-hand side, note the graves of Jacques Demy (u) and Agnès Varda (v), and the floral decorations that spill over onto the neighbouring shrubs. Roughly opposite, the grave of Jules Dalou (w).
At the foot of the mill (a remnant of the old farm on whose land the cemetery was established), turn right into Allée des Sergents de La Rochelle. Note a monumental sculpture on the right and, opposite, a truncated column inscribed with the names of the said sergeants (x). Shortly afterwards, on the right, you will find the grave of Georges (y) and Maryse (z) Wolinski.
(4) At the junction, turn right to quickly find, on the left-hand side, the grave of Philippe Noiret (aa), whose headstone is adorned with a small statue of a dog. Roughly opposite, note the grave of Jean Poiret (ab) and Caroline Cellier (ac). Return to the previous junction.
(4) Continue along the Allée des Sergents de La Rochelle and you will immediately see, on the left-hand side, the graves of Pierre Seghers (ad) and Marcel Bozzufi (ae).
At the next junction, turn right into Allée Lenoir. On the right-hand side, note the grave of the sculptor César (af), adorned with a miniature replica of his work *Le Centaure*. At the corner of the next junction, on the left-hand side, is the grave of Eugène Ionesco (ag).
Cross Avenue Principale and immediately on the left you will see the graves of Roland Petit (ah) and Zizi Jeanmaire (ai). Walk along a shaded, cobbled path and, just before the next junction, look out for the grave of Jean-Marc Reiser (aj) on the left, in the second row; his name is represented by the signature from his drawings, and his headstone features two aeroplane wings in reference to his passion for aviation.
Then return to Allée Chauveau Lagarde and follow it to the right. Shortly after the monument honouring a Parisian councillor, you will reach the junction where the first tour of the central section began.
Here begins a second loop of the central part of the cemetery, in the form of a circle following a path known as Allée Circulaire.
(3) Continue straight ahead and, after a statue of an angel, turn right onto Allée Circulaire. Note on the left a bust atop a stele: this is that of François Rude (ak). Cross Avenue Principale, walk a short distance, then turn right onto the path.
(4) Cross Avenue Transversale and, after a small obelisk, turn right into Allée Circulaire. Note, on the right-hand side, the grave of Émile Littré (al). Just before the next junction, note the grave of Honoré Champion (am) and its bas-relief. Cross the Avenue Principale and, after the Raspail family grave, turn right onto the path. Then, on the right-hand side, note the grave of Paul Belmondo (an).
This marks the end of the second circuit of the central section.
(3) Turn right onto Avenue Transversale, heading towards the prominent central monument. Note, in turn, on the left-hand side, the Jussieu family grave (ao), a fish-shaped sculpture, then the grave of Serge Gainsbourg (ap).
Go round the left side of the Monument to the Spirit of Eternal Sleep and you will immediately find the tomb of Jacques Chirac (aq). Take the first left and walk back up to the monument in tribute to those who died in the Civil Defence. Turn right, leaving the monument on your left, to find, behind it, the discreet tomb of Jean Carmet (ar).
Retrace your steps and continue round the central roundabout on the left. Take the second exit, the Avenue Principale. Cross the Allée Lenoir and continue straight on. On the left, the grave of Maryse Bastié (as) recalls her career as a pilot. Shortly afterwards, on the right, note the grave of Jean Seberg (at).
(5) At the junction immediately ahead, turn left onto Avenue du Nord. Immediately on the left, note the grave of Henri Langlois (au), evocative of the seventh art. A little further on, on the right, is the grave of Pierre Larousse (av). Then, on the left-hand side, note a statue of a cat created by Nicky de Saint-Phalle.
At the T-junction, turn left onto Avenue de l’Ouest. Shortly afterwards, note on the left, in the second row, the Beaudelaire family grave (l). Continue a little further along the avenue and, just after the Gérard family vault, turn left between the graves. First turn right then left around the Simonpaoli family grave to reach Lionel Jospin’s grave (aw).
Retrace your steps and continue along Avenue de l’Ouest. Shortly afterwards, follow a small path to the left to the grave of Christophe (ax). Retrace your steps and continue along Avenue de l’Ouest. At the next junction, note on the right a monument in honour of Jules Dumont-Durville (ay).
Continue south-west along Avenue de l’Ouest. Just before it ends, note the grave of Serge Reggiani on the left (az). Continue straight ahead and exit the cemetery. Then turn right twice to follow Avenue du Maine and you will soon reach Gaîté metro station (E).
To get back home:
By metro:
- Line 13: direct access.
- Line 6: follow Rue de la Gaîté to the right and, at the end, cross Boulevard Edgar Quinet to find the station of the same name on the right on the platform.
- Line 4: continue straight along Avenue du Maine, then cross Rue du Départ to reach Montparnasse station (also providing access to the Transilien’s Line N).