Reykjadalsá, the hot river

Park near the Delakaffi café, at the southern end of a long car park.

(S/E) Head to the northern end of the car park to find a sign featuring a map of the area and information on the geology, fauna and flora. Then continue northwards.

(1) Cross the river via the wooden footbridge, pass to the right of a sheep sorting pen, then take the wide, steeply sloping path.

(2) At the bend to the right, a few metres to your left, the first ‘marmite’ of bubbling mud^(a) with abundant sulphurous vapours is well worth a detour (please take care, especially with children).
Continue the climb; the slope is steep and the stony path slows you down. Take a break to turn round and admire the magnificent view of the town and the ocean to the south.
The slope levels out and the path narrows. A balcony-like section offers the chance to enjoy a remarkable view.

(3) Below on the left, admire the Djúpagil canyon and waterfalls, into which the Reykjadalsá flows^(b); further west, at the bottom of a valley, you can see abundant fumaroles^(c).
A few hundred metres further on, on a sort of plateau, the landscape is greener and the river winds its way through the meadow.

(4). Take the footbridge on the left. A sign indicates that there is a swimming spot in the river 700 metres ahead.
Geothermal features are becoming increasingly numerous and intense: pools of various colours, fumaroles, and holes filled with mud or bubbling water.

(5) A little further on, a dense, damp, warm, sulphurous cloud hangs over the path. You just need to look at the ground and watch where you put your feet. After this stretch where you’ll be holding your breath, a short descent leads to a place called Klambragil, on the right bank of the river, towards a wooden footbridge. The water temperature here is around 35°.

(6) Enjoy a swim to your heart’s content.
On each bank, the path is covered with wooden slats forming a duckboard, and steps make it easy to descend into the shallow river. A few makeshift screens provide privacy for changing.
The water temperature, averaging 38°, varies with the season and rises as you head upstream.

The changeable weather^(d) often means you have to cut short your particularly relaxing swim and make a hasty return. Otherwise, you can extend your walk with a short circular loop. Head upstream from the left bank, then leave the wooden decking and follow a footpath.

(7) The path soon leads to the junction of the Ölkelduhnúkur circular loop, which is about 3 km long; choose whichever direction you prefer. You’ll see numerous solfataras^(e) and other geothermal features.
Then return to the Klambragil footbridge.

(6) You have two options. If it’s raining, take the same route back as on the way there. If conditions^(f) allow, you can head back along the left bank of the river (route marked on the map) and, further on across the plateau, reach the footbridge over the Reykjadalsá.

(4) The Reykjadalsá, on your right, flows towards the Djúpagil canyon and its waterfalls. Continue along the path you took on the way there, this time enjoying the view to the south. As you approach the car park, take note of the streams with their striking colours (S/E).

It is also possible to start the walk at the northern end, but on some days there are large numbers of Icelanders and tourists.

In wet weather, the ground is slippery, and in winter the path is not cleared of snow. It is recommended that you do not stray from the path, out of respect for the flora and for safety reasons, as the ground is unstable in places, particularly near the mud pits and pools of boiling water.

(a) Bubbling mud pots: in the solfataric fields (see (e)), one sometimes comes across pools of mud that are more or less viscous, bubbling, steaming and foul-smelling. They are formed by the action of hot, acidic water on the rocks. Often, bubbles of carbon dioxide rise to the surface and burst.

(b) All Icelanders speak English. However, some information or signposting boards use onlythe Icelandic script, the pronunciation of which is not easy for the uninitiated.
Ð or ð is roughly equivalent to the English ‘th’.
Á or á are pronounced ‘ao’.

(c) Fumaroles: the term is rather overused and refers indiscriminately to any gaseous emission from a hydrothermal system.
For scientists, fumaroles refer to gas emissions at temperatures between 300 and 1000° that accompany volcanic eruptions.

(d) Icelanders have a saying: if you don’t like the weather, wait five minutes and you’ll be delighted. The trouble is that when you do like the weather, five minutes later…

(e) Solfatara vents consist of 90 per cent water in the form of steam, and various other components: carbon dioxide, methane, hydrogen sulphide… at temperatures between 100 and 300°. They are generally surrounded by sulphur deposits formed by the reaction of hydrogen sulphide with the air. There are also various deposits (clay, sulphur compounds, sulphates, etc.) which give the solfatara their magnificent shades of yellow, ochre and red.
Solfataric fields often emit fascinating sounds and foul odours reminiscent of rotten eggs.

(f) The path is not recommended in wet weather and is sometimes closed to protect the flora or for safety reasons.

Dalakaffi, a bar and light refreshments. Closed in winter.

The definitions are taken from Planet-Terre in Lyon.

Visit to Hveragerði, particularly its geothermal park in the town centre.
Town map.

Map of the trails north of Hveragerði.