(S) From the Col de Jou (crossroads of routes), take theGR®10(red and white markings) towards Mariailles (east).
(1) Pass the Col de Creu.
(2) Once you reach the Col du Cheval Mort (approx. 2 km), leave theGR®10and take the track on the right that climbs (GR® cross). You will then cross the track leading to the Randé car park: take the path opposite that climbs to the right (yellow markings). You will come across a small shelter before joining the Mattes Rouges forest track.
(3) Follow the track to the left and immediately take the path climbing up to the right.
The tricky bit in terms of navigation starts here.
First of all, you’ll see a few faded but still visible yellow markings, so don’t panic just yet.
At some point, you’ll come across a fence... Don’t take this fence lightly; it will be very useful and serve as your guide.
So climb up using the fence; you’ll notice that, from one moment to the next, there will be no markings at all.
You’ll come across a second fence, which veers off to the left; ignore it and continue climbing along the one that goes to the right.
A grassy plateau will be a welcome respite, allowing you to enjoy the magnificent views stretching from Canigou to the Esquerdes de Rotja.
You will (still following the fence) climb a little further before descending steeply to the Collade de la Roquette (not signposted but recognisable by the end of a forest track and a sign warning of livestock).
(4) Here stands the famous Croix de la Llipodère, a tribute to the shepherds of Prats de Mollo returning from the market in Evol, as they were murdered at this spot to steal the proceeds from the sale of their sheep (note that this cross is located within the municipality of Py).
From this point, you will follow the red and white markings, not ofthe GR®10but of the GRT83 (Grande Randonnée Transfrontalière and Tour du Canigou) to Pla Guillem. For your information, you still have a ‘short’ 300m climb ahead of you.
You will come across another cross, that of Jampy, the parish priest of Casteil who died in 1942 during his pilgrimage to Nuria. Finally, you will arrive at the vast plateau of Pla Guillem.
All in all, it will take you a good half an hour to get from the Llipodère cross to Pla Guillem. Make the most of the refuge to have a bite to eat. You’ll see the old refuge right next to it; walk the few dozen metres remaining to see the sign for Pla Guillem, a huge crossroads for hiking trails.
(5) After taking in this vast area, retrace your steps back to the Llipodère cross.
(4) Head down to the right, following the red and white markings of the GRT83.
You will cross the track twice before taking it to the left towards Mariailles for a good twenty minutes.
(6) At Mariailles, you’ll have two options: the first is to take theGR®10to the Col de Jou, and the second is to stay on the track to the same pass. Personally, after all the effort involved, I chose the second option.