Cha das Caldeiras - Mosteiros

Departure from José Doce's guesthouse in Portela.

(S) Follow the caldera, dominated by the rampart to the north-west, along a track that was badly damaged by the 2014 eruption. The route, which is mainly north-facing, takes an hour for the flat section, walking between the lava flow and the eucalyptus trees. When you reach the end of the caldera, take in the view and enjoy the landscape.

(1) Leave the caldera and its mineral world behind and descend to the much greener ocean side of the island, arriving at the first forest house.

(2) Descend towards Mosteiros, still on the carriage road, in an atmosphere completely different from the eucalyptus and acacia forest. After a few hundred metres, you will see the Ministry of Agriculture official. Pay the entrance fee to the Monte-Velha forest park at this point (100 escudos, or £1 per person). At the same time, the attendant will make sure you are on the right track. Arrive at the second forest house.

(3) Be careful not to take the wrong turn here. At the house, turn right where a sign, with a moderately visible inscription, indicates the direction of Mosteiros. Leave the road used by the few vehicles and follow a very pretty path. Be careful, the slope is steeper, and you will come to a new crossroads.

(4) Turn left onto the wider path, leaving the narrower path on your right. The descent continues through picturesque scenery. You will then approach the area where you will need to cross the clouds.

(5) Steps are marked by wooden logs or stones. Be careful here as the damp ground is slippery and you could fall. Try to keep your feet on the exposed stones.

When you emerge from the clouds, you will see the sea and the village of Mosteiros through the trees. An optical illusion may make it seem very close, but there are still a few hundred metres to go before you reach the paved road, where you can stop for a drink at a small restaurant (E).

Check the weather forecast before setting off, as there is a risk of slipping on wet ground if it rains.

This is a hike that you do to avoid having to go back down the caldera by aluguer. Have your luggage sent to the hotel you have booked and arrange to be picked up either at the end of the hike or in the village of Mosteiros. (reminder: add an extra 1½ hours).

On arrival (E), you can hire an aluguer. It is also possible to get to Mosteiros by walking down the last 300 metres in about an hour and a half. Ask local people for directions.

Between (4) and (5): on this descent, you will be accompanied by birds. If you see a magnificent bird with beautiful bright colours, it is the grey-headed kingfisher (Halcyon leucocephala). Butterflies such as the Hypolimnas misippus with their shimmering colours add to the beauty of the descent.
Look at the beautiful forest with beautiful butterflies and birds nearby, and lots of lizards on the walls.