Foresta Umbra at the start of the Laghetto d'Umbra

Who would have thought that, in the heart of Puglia, one might find a place resembling the forest of Huelgoat? Here, olive and mastic trees have given way to beech and moss. Starting from Laghetto d’Umbra, a magnificent path winds its way between majestic trunks supporting a dense canopy that the light struggles to penetrate. And who is this giant who built these mounds of rock by excavating the nearby sinkholes? Could Gargantua have something to do with the Gargano?

Details

50800423
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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 7.77 km
  • ◔
    Average duration: 2h 30 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Easy

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 98 m
  • ↘
    Descent: - 98 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 801 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 757 m

Description of the walk

Laghetto d’Umbra is situated in the centre of the Foresta Umbra, a stone’s throw from the junction between the road linking Monte Sant’Angelo to Vico del Gargano and the road coming from Peschici via Mandrione. It can be reached from Baracconi’s tavern, which lies on the edge of the second road mentioned above.
Leave your car along the track leading to the taverna.

(S/E) Cross the road to reach the small lake (Laghetto), whose glistening surface can be seen below. Walk down to the water’s edge to really enjoy the site, and go round the lake to the right, following the shore. Take the opportunity to count the inhabitants you come across (fish, turtles, birds…), but keep your distance so as not to startle them.
When you reach the lake’s dam, a footbridge leads to the footpath, situated slightly above the shore, along which you continue your walk.

(1) Once you’ve walked round the lake, turn right to enter the forest proper and immerse yourself completely in its atmosphere. The giant trees lining the path are truly impressive. Follow the wire fence until the first fork.

(2) Turn right towards Falascone.

(3) About a hundred metres before reaching the roadside rest area, turn left to leave the developed area. The well-marked path winds its way between moss-covered rock outcrops and sinkholes, through a stand of majestic beech trees. Continue along the track to the next crossroads.

(4) Pass a path on your left which joins the path where the route ends. Continue to the right, towards Baccone.
After 500 m along a virtually straight stretch, you’ll reach an unmarked crossroads.

(5) Take the path that heads left, skirting a huge sinkhole. This path is less marked than the previous one, but there is no risk of getting lost. After about a kilometre winding through the forest, you will come out onto a concrete forest track.

(6) Turn left and follow the forest track to the next four-way junction.

(7) Turn right to cross a slightly damp patch, and follow the track uphill to Caserna Murgia. This strange building, resembling a seaside villa, is situated at the top of a hill on the left, slightly set back from the track.

(8) Turn back, leaving the path leading to Lago d'Ortu on your left. Return to the crossroads you passed earlier.

(7) Turn right to head back towards the lake where you started. At the fork, continue to the right. You will reach the crossroads you passed on the way out.

(2) Head right, following the outward route in the opposite direction to reach the original fork.

(1) On reaching Laghetto, turn right to cross the dam. At the end of the dam, a gap in the railing allows you to descend to the water’s edge. You will then find the track that leads to (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : km 0 - alt. 801 m - Parking. Barranconi’s drystone shelter
  2. 1 : km 0.44 - alt. 783 m - Laghetto d'Umbra
  3. 2 : km 0.75 - alt. 786 m - Common junction. Return
  4. 3 : km 1.3 - alt. 765 m - Fork in the road
  5. 4 : km 2.37 - alt. 768 m - Junction, towards Baccone
  6. 5 : km 2.83 - alt. 768 m - Junction after a large sinkhole
  7. 6 : km 3.65 - alt. 784 m - Junction, towards the Murgia barracks
  8. 7 : km 4.21 - alt. 757 m - Junction. Return to the barracks
  9. 8 : km 4.83 - alt. 785 m - Murgia Barracks
  10. S/E : km 7.77 - alt. 801 m - Parking. Barranconi’s drystone shelter

Notes

Barranconi’s tavern (Trattoria Foresta Umbra) is a good place to stock up on provisions before setting off or to stop for a break on the way back.

Worth a visit

In karst terrain, water seeping into the underlying limestone does more than just create voids underground. Sometimes the cavities formed collapse, opening up conical depressions of varying sizes, with flat bottoms. These are sinkholes. Nearby, one can see pyramidal piles of rocky, moss-covered boulders of varying heights. It would be tempting to think that the bumps created the hollows, so perfect is their arrangement here. But for that to be the case, it would have had to be the work of a giant. Gargano, Gargantua: is there a connection?

Reviews and comments

4.7 / 5
Based on 5 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.6 / 5
Ease of following the route
4.6 / 5
Route interest
5 / 5
Kerficel
Kerficel

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Apr 27, 2026
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A lovely walk in the shade of a beech forest
There’s a lovely road from Mattinata that climbs straight up the hill
It’s full of flowers

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rendominique
rendominique

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 07, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Very beautiful hike on easy trails. Magnificent forest. The detour on trail no. 7 to the barracks is of little interest.
Nice little restaurant at the end.

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User 25976753

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 10, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

very pleasant forest, easy walk, suitable for families

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philrandovilaine
philrandovilaine

Could you explain exactly what this is about? That would allow me to correct it if necessary.
PhilRV

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PatLoc
PatLoc

Overall rating : 3.7 / 5

Date of your route : May 12, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★☆☆ Average
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

An enjoyable route through the Umbra Forest: majestic trees, an easy route, ideal for families. There’s a slight discrepancy between the description and the map, but this isn’t a problem as there are signposts.

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philrandovilaine
philrandovilaine

I'm really glad you found this route such a lovely experience.
However, I’m not sure that feeding the turtles is a good idea.
Kind regards
PhilRV

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Amélie86
Amélie86
• Edited:

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 29, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

We went on this hike in July when it was 35 degrees, and the most surprising thing was how cool it was under those tall trees! It was like natural air conditioning 🥰
The walk is very easy, with no significant elevation gain, and very straightforward to follow. The lake is teeming with turtles; it’s lovely to stop there for a moment to watch them ☺️

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