Berkhamsted to Frithsden with the Devil's Own

A walk through lovely Chiltern scenery with lots of interest on the way - a Norman Castle, WW1 trenches, a vineyard, canal and more.

Technical sheet

27469374
A Berkhamsted walk posted on 05/10/22 by Chiltern Society. Last update : 20/10/22
  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 10.09 km
  • ◔
    Calculated time: 3h 15 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Moderate

  • ⚐
    Return to departure point: Yes
  • ↗
    Vertical gain: + 123 m
  • ↘
    Vertical drop: - 131 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 181 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 99 m
Path to Berkhamsted Common

Description

Start: Berkhamsted Railway station (HP4 2AJ)

(S/E) Leave the station on the opposite side to the canal and town centre - the exit nearest to platform 4. You will see the mounds and ruins of Berkhamsted Castle (A) ahead of you. Take the road that runs to the left of the castle heading out of town (Brownlow Road).

(1) Where Brownlow Road bends right following the boundary of the castle keep straight ahead. After 100m take the footpath signposted to Berkhamsted Common through Kitchener's field. Initially the footpath follows a road past the Bowling Club and tennis courts.

After a short stretch of stony track the path runs along the left hand edge of several fields heading towards a farm. You will see the woods of Berkhamsted Common ahead of you on the ridge. Keep straight ahead at the farm (Well Farm). The path now follows a broad grassy track to the left of a hedge.

(2) Follow the hedge until you reach the wood and enter the wood through a kissing gate. Continue in the same direction on a bridleway climbing steeply uphill into the wood. Initially you climb steeply through mixed woodland (oak, ash, field maple). As the gradient eases you cross a grassy strip with young trees to your left. At a waymark post veer to the left through the trees then back to the right at the next post.

Continue past another post and when you come to a major junction of tracks (the post here has many disks) turn sharp right on to a wide track with bracken on either side. Follow this track for the next 800m as it runs slightly downhill. This section can be confusing because there are several alternative tracks. Keep an eye on your GPS position on the map and do not worry if you go wrong - you should be able to use one of the alternative tracks to rejoin the route.

(3) On the way, you can still see a network of trenches (B) and can walk down in to them, but already you can see that some are becoming obscured by the undergrowth again. After viewing the trenches, continue in the same direction.

Follow the main track as it bends left at a waymark post. After 100m it emerges on a golf course. Immediately after the first green, and before passing between the tee-offs on either side of the main path which heads down to a road, bear left around the bottom of the green and you will see a worn track heading in to the woods ahead of you.

(4) Take this track and after a little over 100m it will bring you out by a car park. Take the path along the right of the car park. Cross the road to the War Memorial that you will see ahead of you. The path now crosses a golf course on a bridleway. It is clearly waymarked - look out for the yellow-topped posts. Mostly it follows the line of a stony track. You cross three fairways and pass through two belts of trees, the path curving a little to the right.

(5) Continue in the same direction in to the woods at the edge of the golf course. When you meet a road (Hillingdon Road) turn sharp left, almost back on yourself, on another bridleway.

(6) Look out for a footpath to your right after 50 metres. The signs for this path may be hidden by undergrowth so keep a close eye on your GPS so you do not miss the turning. Take this path and it soon brings you to a path running between garden hedges - beech on the right, hawthorn on the left.

When you come to a road cross straight over and continue on a broad track with trees on either side. As the path starts to descend look out for cherry trees to the left of the path, the remains of orchards once common here. The path descends more steeply through Little Frithsden Copse, eventually becoming stepped as it descends to the road opposite the Alford Arms.

(7) You will next turn right on the road in front of the pub, but first read about Frithsden, the Alford Arms and if interested, visit the vineyard 'Fristhden' (C). Turn right at the first road junction, signposted for Potten End and after 50m take a bridleway to the left of the road.

The bridleway climbs steadily uphill with views of the vineyard over the valley to your left. The path curves right and passes a log bench on the right which is partially covered with ivy and is easy to miss (there is a large metal animal feeder in field opposite).

(8) Take the footpath to the right immediately after the bench. Cross a field, pass through a kissing gate and continue with a hedge and trees to your left. Note the old tractors rusting in the hedge on your left. Pass through a second kissing gate to join a lane in to Potten End.

Keep straight ahead when you meet a road. Pass the Plough pub. Straight ahead at the crossroads (Church Road). Straight ahead again at the next crossroads to walk down the left hand side of 'The Green'. You will see Martin's Pond pub to your right across the green. At the end of the green where you meet a road, take the track directly ahead of you passing between gardens.

(9) Keep straight ahead through a gate on a footpath past the bowls club. Follow the narrow dog leg to the right and left coming out by a large metal gate in front of a drive. Turn right when you come to a gravel track then left when you reach a road. After approximately 50m you pass "The Bullbeggars" Pub sign and shortly afterwards turn right into the NT wood of Little Heath.

Follow the well defined trail through the centre of the wood. This wiggles a little but heads generally South. These woods are open access so there are several different trails. Where you have a choice aim more towards the right hand edge of the wood, bearing left if you reach the edge. You should emerge on a road at the Southern tip of the wood with a view across open fields towards Berkhamsted. Don't worry if you hit the road at a different point, just turn right and it will bring you back on track opposite a house called Roseheath Wood.

(10) Take the road downhill heading to the left of the houses in Berkhamsted. (D) As you near the bottom of the hill the road crosses the railway then swings right and then left to cross the Grand Union Canal (E). After the bridge take the path to the right through the hedge to join the canal towpath. Turn left towards Berkhamsted. You are now on the South bank of the canal heading uphill.

(11) Pass a lock then at the first bridge cross over the canal and continue along the North bank. The canal soon enters Berkhamsted taking a picturesque route through old and new houses. You pass several pubs (the Rising Sun, the Boat and the Crystal Palace). Where the towpath ends climb to road level and head left along the road beside the railway. The station is now 100m ahead of you. (S/E)

We hope you have enjoyed your walk. Please remember to rate the walk and add comments. We are interested in how we could improve the instructions or the route and would like to hear about any issues with paths on the walk.

Waypoints

  1. S/E : km 0 - alt. 107 m - Berkhamsted Railway station - Berkhamsted Castle
  2. 1 : km 0.37 - alt. 114 m - Brownlow Road bends
  3. 2 : km 1.79 - alt. 141 m - Hedge
  4. 3 : km 2.63 - alt. 164 m - Network of trenches - First World War trenches Troops
  5. 4 : km 2.9 - alt. 164 m - Worn track
  6. 5 : km 3.53 - alt. 172 m - Woods - Golf course
  7. 6 : km 3.72 - alt. 168 m - Sharp turn - Footpath
  8. 7 : km 4.6 - alt. 126 m - Alford Arms
  9. 8 : km 5.23 - alt. 147 m - Log bench
  10. 9 : km 6.11 - alt. 169 m - Gardens
  11. 10 : km 6.9 - alt. 173 m - Road downhill - Grand Union Canal
  12. 11 : km 8.85 - alt. 103 m - Lock - First bridge
  13. S/E : km 10.09 - alt. 107 m - Berkhamsted Railway station

Useful Information

Walk from Berkhamsted to Frithsden past WW1 trenches, returning via Potten End and the canal.

Start & finish: Berkhamsted Railway station (HP4 2AJ)

Parking: Parking at the station (pay). Free options on route at the War Memorial, Frithsden and Potten End.

Local transport: Train to Berkhamsted station

Food & drink: Alford Arms and cafe at Vineyard in Frithsden, Plough and Martin's Pond pubs at Potten End. Many pubs, cafes and restaurants in Berkhamsted

Terrain: Good footpaths and bridleways. One short steep section. Total ascent 150m.

Find more walks and information at Chiltern Society here.

Always stay careful and alert while following a route. Visorando and the author of this walk cannot be held responsible in the event of an accident during this route.

During the walk or to do/see around

(A) Berkhamsted Castle. As you leave the station, you will see the remains of the castle on your right. This is a substantial Norman motte and bailey castle surrounded by a moat and is one of the first castles to be built after the battle of Hastings. William visited Berkhamsted in 1066 after the battle and before going to London. He ordered the construction to protect a key route to the Midlands. This valley was an important communication link long before the railway, canal and A41 - it was the most important route through the northern Chilterns during the Roman period and very possibly earlier.

(B) First World War trenches Troops from the Inns of Court Officer's Training Corps (nicknamed the Devil's Own) were trained in and around Berkhamsted. Nearly 8 miles of training trenches were dug during the war. Only 500m remain and the trenches here are the best preserved. They were cleared and mapped in 2013/14.

(C) Fristhden is a small hamlet whose name means 'valley of the wood'- an appropriate name I'm sure you'll agree. Despite the hamlet's small size it has a pub and a vineyard. The pub had its name changed to the Alford Arms after the death of Viscount Alford (from Ashridge House) in 1851. The pub has been updated since then, offering the 'ying and yang of the modern, essential pub: downhome cheer in the front and refined dining in the back.'The vineyard is a 'boutique English vineyard and winery' which has a cafe in addition to the wine shop and chance to see the vines. To visit the vineyard take the road ahead of you running to the left of the pub.This area was famous for growing black cherries and used to hold a cherry fair in July. If you visit in spring look out for the telltale cherry blossom on trees now growing wild in the woods and hedgerows..... turn right on the road in front of the pub.

(D) Bullberggars Lane This is a charming quiet lane, its age shown by the fact that in many places it is sunken into the hillside. Note the variety of plants in the hedgerows - a sign of ancient hedges. Above you at many points tall beech trees overhang the road.

(E) Grand Union Canal. Opened in 1798 this wide gauge barge canal linked Birmingham and the northern canal network to the Thames. You will pass several of the locks needed to carry the canal over the Chiltern ridge.

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